Tricky-Ricky

You have PM, I hope?

Thought i would include a pic for anyone interested.

These are the front set ups from Z33 and Infinity G35 , and there are some small differences, haven't checked the rear, but from memory the are the same, however as i so far haven't been able to find a 350GT manual who is to say whether the G35 and 350GT are the same.

I have no idea, as they are not marked, i bought them from a trader on the SXOC, they look very good with very good welding.

Looking for a swap P/X for my brand new SS headers, was going to use these so i could fit my wideband set up, but now I'm thinking of just decating and fit to them, So if anyone has a pair of resonated SS decats in good condition i would PX plus cash for the headers, or maybe decats + plenim spacer or wheel spacers, PM me if you're interested

Thanks for that, just what i needed to hear, from somebody who actually has first hand experience of true dual system with decats I was surprised just how quiet my system was when i fitted it.

I think the only sensible answer to this, will be buying some cheap decats, and give them a try, am i right in thinking the resonated type are slightly quieter?

OK lets try a different tack on this, has anyone got, or have a link to a sound clip of a true duel system with decats fitted?

I already have a true dual system, IE the HKS look alike, it gives a nice sound to the exhaust, and not at all loud at idle and lower RPM driving, goes a bit louder at hight RPM, but not what i would call really loud, so i am just wondering if i go decat with this exhaust would it end up too loud? Video clips would be good as well as experience opinions, but I'm not interested in how decats sound with a single pipe exhaust, as its a different sound altogether.

Of those that have a true dual system, how much difference does decat pipes make? are they a lot louder? and is there a noticeable drop in torque anywhere in the rev range, when decated?

There is no need to remove the clevis pin, its a bit fiddly, but you basically just need to slacken the lock nut on the master cylinder treaded shaft, and then using a pair of long nosed pliers or similar, turn the shaft clockwise to lower the peddle, and then you can just adjust the peddle stop bolt to achieve the desired free play and hight.

Will try at some point over the weekend I am pretty sure that the squeak originates from a dry pivot for the clutch arm, next time i am under the car i will try and get some grease in there, as WD40 only works for a short time. Alex i think i will try a new braided clutch hose first to eliminate ballooning, do you sell a seal kit for the master cylinder rather than just throw more money at it by replacing the whole thing, having watched the slave cylinder in operation while bleeding the system i don't think that is at fault.

Why do you say change all? i did change the fluid, not just bleed, there is an intermittent, pronounced squeak from what i am presuming is a dry clutch arm pivot also? Can you PM me some prices please Alex?

OK this is starting to get on my nerves, i can adjust my clutch to work two ways, one feels normal until the car gets fairly hot, and then it starts to loose any free play until i feel that if i don't adjust it the clutch will start to slip, and if i adjust it when its hot to get a little play in it, it will feel like there is too much and sometimes it will feel almost floppy, especially when cold. Now is this a problem with the master cylinder, pressure line or slave cylinder? I have bled it, but it makes no real difference. Had similar on one of my old S14s but not as bad, never did find out why.

Yes it will be down to the body shop not adding enough flexy additive to all the paint, and the amount of flexing taking place in the fibreglass, if you also knock it on speed bumps etc this will accelerate the problem.

Well luckily i didn't so for any who searched but couldn't find anything like me the size is ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... .......................................32MM

No need for heat resistant paint in the engine bay, unless you're going to paint the exhaust manifold, 2K acrylic is plenty tolerant of heat, my plenum is done with this and i have painted lots of other engine parts in the past, i even did a whole bike engine in it with no problems.

Before i go and jack up the car and take the wheel off, only to find i have to put it back, in order to go out and buy a size of socket that i don't have, can anyone tell me the nut size?

Good to see Kiwi software, like the BlaZt software being used in the UK. There is some very good software and devices that come from NZ, i used to use the FC-Datalogit, and edit, with my turbo Nissan's

Just plugged in when needed, i did think about integrating an old laptop to the screen in my 350GT but it was too fiddly, the cable and software can access a lot of info, but its limited to the known ECU addresses, obviously the Blazt developers and users look at locating more. But its pretty comprehensive, and the data logging is very useful too.

AFAIK all JDM imports run can bus, and the protocol is JOBD which can be a pain for finding the right reader, i bought an Innovate LM-3 partly because i wanted another widebamd lambda set up, and partly because it was supposed to read most protocols, and then found it won't deal with JOBD. I ended up buying the Blazt cable and software, I am in Hastings East Sussex, so not too far from you, so if you want me to run a diagnostic check on your Z then let me know

I agree, when i was contemplating a Z at the beginning of the year i looked at several around that price, and nearly bought a really nice modded one with everything you would want for a grand more.

The main influence with most induction kits is going to be where they draw the air supply from, if its short and in the upper engine bay it will draw hot air, and so performance will suffer, a shroud will do very Little to prevent this, if its boxed in completely with a sealed cold air feed from say low on the bumper it will be much better, long intakes with the filter tucked behind the bumper will also be better, provided they are not directly subject to road water. All types will suffer from heat soak when going slowly or stuck in traffic, but they will all cool once there is a good airflow going through them, there is also a lot of bull talked about material's, yes metal will perhaps pick up heat quicker them plastic, however all material's will heat up and retain the ambient under bonnet temps once on the move all will be equal.

The catch can is just an ebay cheapy, and the GT runs the same ARBs as the Z, I didn't realise that the Z had separate studs for the strut brace, rather than like most that bolt to the damper top plates. I know there are aftermarket struts available for the GT but because most are either Japanese or US in origin it makes them rather expensive by the time they are imported, as nobody in the UK bothers much with GT parts. Just out of interest, has anyone driven their Z with the strut bar removed? and was there any noticeable difference?

I just need a willing 350Z owner near me to let me try theirs or if anyone is going to Japbash? I'll bring my socket set