GT4 Zed

Less economy and slight power sapping due to more drag/friction but its minimal really to matter.

Finally James you have come good with this. Set the damping in the middle for both axles and the se with the ARBs and go from there. I have settle with medium in front and soft at the rear for ARBs but depending on weather conditions I adjust my damping to suit namely to reduce understeer in the wet. You would have to find what works for you as our setups are different. I have a fully bushed and adjustable suspension and yet to brace it, so it would be interesting. Make small adjustment per area per time so as to know what affects what before making changes. Record them too and drive on a setting for a while in different roads and conditions first.

Nice job Will 👠I can see bumblebee getting very friendly with Rosie derrière in Wales 🙀😎😄

So much like!

Looking good mate. Not keen on the number plate obstructing the rad/ PAS cooler and AC condenser. Sorry but I'm always thing performance above style. A vinyl plate on the area above where the badge used to be wouldn't be so bad or even a jap style plate on the side.

If it bugging you that much just use 10w 40 fully synthetic oil and it should go away. Just make sure you get the oil up to temp before canning the car especially in very cold weather. Or just ignore the noise.

Updated with pics.

If the pedal doesn't flick back it means you've gone too low. Back in the nut one thread at a time and drive the car to appreciate the change. It can be deceptive just static testing the clutch. I had a different problem with unpleasant gear changes after fitting a HD aftermarket clutch and SMF and found out lift the cluch pedal up got rid of the issue. I have only 1 thread showing and might even take it down fllush to get rid of a very tiny crunch I sometimes get on aggressive down shifts. Recap: more thread out = pedal up, firmer pedal and wider clutch engagement range More thread in = pedal down, softer pedal and smaller engagement range.

Happy birthday dude🎂ðŸ¸ðŸŽ You don't need an invitation for 🚬ðŸ»ðŸ»! So enjoy your special day 😎

Like I said before I would not trust any of these super duper bearings or upgrade parts from any other than vortech or to some degree 928 Motorsports. I have spoken to Carl the owner there before and he will tell you that the bearings supplied by vortech are the best fir thirse class of blowers and that's what they(928)supply themselves. Their seals seem to be better than vortech's as its twin-lipped so less likely to weep. However all seals fail so its not a biggie wherever you buy it and its an easy fix DIY. I bought this and yet to fit it. The 928 impeller upgrade on the V2 S trim is proven to make more power than the vortechs and its rated to 60krpm but that's a moot point as the bearings for these class blowers that fit the Z are all between 53-55k If you want a blower with bearing that can go beyond 60k then you need to swap your unit to a V7 YSi with will need to be clearance but doable and has been done before. This blower is a monster HD race rated to 65k. Otherwise the V2 T trim blower like I have is rated to 55k. Other than this I think bringing your blower to the UK and sending it to vortech is the best either cashback or with/without upgrade. Simple vorteck inspection/ refresh is in the order of $300 while a full rebuild is $700 excl postage.

One set of toe bolts pending. New stuff to be added when I take pics. - - TEIN HD inner and out tie rods. (Pair) Upgrade your rusted seized OEM tie rods or for drifting or track driving where you can adjust for wider steering angle £175 - extra set of Eibach toe bolts £20 - various under car and radiator trims. Free.

Ok for that R34 you are forgiven to try and leave the fold. That car is stunning and reminds me sorely of the one that got away😔 GLWTS mate

You're not alone Ian. I can't wait to swap my engine and paint everything on sight in the bay

Depending on how cheap and quick is postage from South Africa to US I would strongly recommend you send the blower to vortech for a rebuild. It's cheap and you get proven parts. It takes about a 3week turn around but its better than putting seals or bearings that are not up to the job and bring you back to square one. For what it's worth vortech will not sell bearings or seals or any rebuild parts. Supercharger rebuilds.com claim to have superdupper bearings and seals but reviews suggest its bunkum! 928 Motorsports have mixed reviews. But if you decide to rebuild your self go with 928 Motorsports. They sell upgrade bearings, seals, impeller and impeller shaft depending on application. I bought seals from them to replace my rear shaft seal which is weeping and a common vortech problem. Does not affect the operation of the head unit but just annoying. I'm yet to replace it but its a very easy and dies it require me to open the unit. There a numerous DIY videos on YouTube to rebuild the vortech head unit. Vortech can also upgrade your SC head unit to upgrade impeller, HD race gears and bearings where possible and works out cheaper or they can give you cash back for your old unit against an upgrade. I have a V2 T trim HD head-unit and considering upgrade to a new Ti trim unit or cash credit for a new v2 Ti trim or v7 YSi trim unit but I need to sort out my engine rebuild completely first. Good luck with which ever path you take.

Not something you'd get here easily as true rear coilover set ups are not common. Ask the traders or get it from US directly or via eBay or combine order from the US with someone to reduce costs especially if you are going for a good brand like SPL. I will be getting some from the states but that's for the end of march. Pm if interested.

You maybe ok but depends how the HFC "tunes" the Miltek. Use a DB app or the suggestion Dan gave. I got flagged at Bedford several times at Bedford. Just lifted off subsequently. My setup was DC headers, ART decat pipes, Miltek CBE and then most recently Invidia Gemini. Both setups passed static at 94db. I'm also supercharged😜 TBH my zorst is quieter than many NA set up on here and definately a whisper compared to my k1 and header setup😖😖 I suspect the ART pipes has got everything to do with it.

Spacers and boot mat SOLD

Nice work shrek and co👠Can't wait for start up😉

Sale pending on few items but cash is king unless I've agreed to hold. However first refusal goes with the time of pm. Payment by PayPal or BACS.

All PMs replied.

Hey papa blue, looks the business sir😎 Just need to finish it off with a nice little snail tucked into the engine bay

Final garage clearout of parts. All in very good working condition. Pickup from Worcester otherwise all prices are including delivery UK mainland. Offers considered or swaps. - OEM black sideskirts x2 £65. Has scratches from storage. No damage otherwise. - OEM plastic passenger side wiper washer bottle. £15 - OEM fuel rail with damper and OEM fuel main feed line with damper £50 - OEM injectors in vgc with o-rings £45 - OEM rear wipers and motor with fittings x2 sets £25 each - OEM header gasket £15 - OEM pax side carpet mat x1. Both in vgc and no wear. £25 del - OEM THICK pile boot carpet. SOLD Also have other OEM stuff free if wanted but you cover postage. Just a few off the top of my head: - DE Headers and sheilds - Rear exhaust heat sheilds - Revup OEM engine intake manifold - Revup OEM lower revup plenum

Hey Ian when did you drop it like that. Me likey😎. Shows how long I last saw your zed. ET -30 + 20mm spacer = ET -10. You were supposed to be good at maths🙀

Design primarily. I also have reservations about the brand. Most like these just make a generic damper for all their products and throw over some springs without any R&D. The end user gets a product that is not car specific and sometimes also very poor materials are used so these are failure prone. You might argue that for the price it's worth a go but have had a suspension failure at high speed? I have and was lucky and learnt my lesson that there are somethings that you can afford to cheap out on.

Good luck mate. Hope you find the cause for this issue. I've got a full set off OEM injectors in vgc if you need them. Just be meticulous and check all systems 1 at a time.