GT4 Zed

Thanks Kyle for clearing up that initial misinformation to the op I've checked on my D1 TC box and it will fit any zed except HR which have a different throttle sensor clips from the DE/Revup. The auto will therefore benefit from the response in the throttle which is what the OP wants. The dull response that we experience as a lag is inbuilt into the drive by wire ETC character to provide safety and comfort in the lower rpms. The controller amplifies or reduces the signal on the whole rpm range depending on the mode selected. It has nothing to do with the ECU. It does not affect your tune. All modern cars with drive by wire will benefit from this if they don't have a switchable TC already inbuilt. The graph borrowed from blitz website clear illustrates a typical modern car's throttle response profile.

Awesome work Dazza! Coming along nicely. There is no end to your skill. I maybe down in London next weekend and could pop down to give you a hand if you are working on stuff. I'd give you a call to confirm by Thursday.

Hey fella, I have not questioned your credibility and if you read my post properly you would see that we are talking about the same things. No need to get defensive. There is nothing new you are saying here and frankly my point was that not having knock control beyond 5k does not equate to total unsafety. The car as NA does seem to suffer adversely from it and the fueling and ignition targets beyond there do the job well which is what UPrev mirrors when FI. FI on an NA design is inherently risky and that risk is borne by the owner of the said vehicle. While I acknowledge that a stand alone device will be better does mean UPrev cannot cut it for the purposes will are using our cars for. Greddy e-manage and many other piggyback are not that superior to reflashes. It all comes down to cost and also using what you tuner is happy with. FYI I put up a thread a long way back about how to modify the OEM PCV for FI cars so I understand how it work Same with water injection, EGT, piggy backs etc you are not telling me nothing new so stop waving your pinky. I disagree with you about some of the points explanations you made and keep making but it was not the object of my first response to your post about knock control limits, so I will not try and correct you again because you obviously know it all. You keep talking the talk I will just walk the walk.

You are right about this but the solution with UPrev is to fatten the map past 48krpm. It's more than ample except you are leaving some power on the table. Bad fuel is a moot point and is unlikely to happen as if anything will not let you reach redline. I have had water contaminated fuel from a Murco on the M5 around Taunton while playing Russian roulette with low fuel trying to get to Gordano services but chickened out as the fuel had been on ---- for over 25miles and was worried the hill into bristol will catch me out. Long and short the the car was spluttering for about 1 mile and finally died. Had to get the AA tow me to the services drained my tank filled with fresh fuel and after multiple attempts to start the car it finally cleared the injectors and drove ok after that to Worcester. Knock control will not save you from fuel pump failure. You would need to spend a fortune on very high end ecu with failsafes at all level and it will still not save you from a catastrophic failure of some sort. Some high end drag cars run complex ecu with individual cylinder control and fsilsafes and still go bang! You can't get any better than this. My point it that it's not a big issue apart from not optimising fueling at timing past the limit. Ultimately we all know FI is a risk and you have to go in with your eyes open, same with normal road cars. My mate has spent a fortune on a low mileage 335D with all sorts going boom. Another way to look at it is how many cars that have gone bang so far with FI? But there has been a spate of blown NA engines recently. I guess the causes are different but safety is safety. Poor oil or lack of is a bigger issue and once FI'ed you need to watch it like a hawk. That was my point, you have to play it safe with up-rev mapping as it uses the std knock control table that runs out at 5K RPM, with a decent stand alone ECU such as Syvecs or Link etc which are not that expensive in the scheme of things and can be had for £1200-1600 and have very comprehensive knock control and loads of other safety functions like over boost protection, along with individual cylinder adjust for fuel timing, in fact even mid priced piggyback that I have used have individual cylinder trim. I would be far more concerned with bad quality fuel and over-boost protection than I would with bad oil, as most oils available are plenty good enough for an engine designed back in the ninety's which the VQ was, Once your FI the main points for concern at high loads are Knock brought on by whatever IE det through over-boost, bad/low octane fuel, not water contamination as that wont reduce the octane count, unlike oil in the combustion mix (which is why I would always make sure I have remodeled the PCV system) the other is high EGTs which it seems nobody monitors on the VQ? A dead fuel pump would be the least of my worries, in any case the ECUs I mentioned have fail safes for low fuel pressure, the std ECU has no monitoring for this and very little else when pushing the motor beyond its design limits IE FI, on your average basic FI motor there are already safety functions built in to cover these eventualities, which is why I mentioned my concerns about the std ECU and up-rev, but I guess its all a case of what your prepared to spend your cash on. First off syvecs is not £1500-1600. The syvecs S6 (£1600 excluding vat) will only support one wideband = one bank effectively. The S8 will support dual widebands and costs £3500 excluding additional drivers and gizmos like Toucan. Secondly you keep talking about bad fuel but I really don't know what you mean by this. My experience was water contamination. Can you give me an example to buttress your point? It's a very unlikely scenario and you will not be able to get to any "bad fue lsituation" to cause serious damage to the car . To my knowledge no FI car has blown up due to bad fuel in the UK or US. Bad tune or poor maintenance has been the more likely culprit often. You talk about mid level ECU and that but please specify because as I said before high end race/drag cars with complex ECU with failsafes still go boom so what's up with that? How can you say water in fuel will not affect octane ratings. Any contaminant will either positively or negatively affect it eg water, N2O and same as with blowby-oil vapour. The difference is if it's accounted for in the tune or not. You talk about remodelling the PCV but that not new tech and frankly it only improves your octane rating marginally but that will not cause catastrophic det at moderate to high hp. At extreme boost/hp levels I can understand. That's why every OEM car NA or boosted all can scavenge blow by through the intake system for second pass safely. EGT is only very important for turbo applications same as over boost protection. Sc temps are 1/2 as much much lower are not a common feature in failures. What I'm trying to say is that though some of your points are valid they are not that important in the grand scheme of things. Theory and real life are always miles apart.

My ksports will be for sale soon if any of you bishes😎 want to upgrade. I am tired of convincing my good friends like Dan that they are as good as the big name brands. To be honest the hadware is interchangeable with AP racing and they use the same aftermarket pads which is the greatest determinant of braking performance. After 6 years of abuse on track they are still going strong and after a quick luck of paint or powder coat on the callipers you will never tell the difference. Keep your eyes open for this.

You are right about this but the solution with UPrev is to fatten the map past 48krpm. It's more than ample except you are leaving some power on the table. Bad fuel is a moot point and is unlikely to happen as if anything will not let you reach redline. I have had water contaminated fuel from a Murco on the M5 around Taunton while playing Russian roulette with low fuel trying to get to Gordano services but chickened out as the fuel had been on ---- for over 25miles and was worried the hill into bristol will catch me out. Long and short the the car was spluttering for about 1 mile and finally died. Had to get the AA tow me to the services drained my tank filled with fresh fuel and after multiple attempts to start the car it finally cleared the injectors and drove ok after that to Worcester. Knock control will not save you from fuel pump failure. You would need to spend a fortune on very high end ecu with failsafes at all level and it will still not save you from a catastrophic failure of some sort. Some high end drag cars run complex ecu with individual cylinder control and fsilsafes and still go bang! You can't get any better than this. My point it that it's not a big issue apart from not optimising fueling at timing past the limit. Ultimately we all know FI is a risk and you have to go in with your eyes open, same with normal road cars. My mate has spent a fortune on a low mileage 335D with all sorts going boom. Another way to look at it is how many cars that have gone bang so far with FI? But there has been a spate of blown NA engines recently. I guess the causes are different but safety is safety. Poor oil or lack of is a bigger issue and once FI'ed you need to watch it like a hawk.

If you get the UpRev it's not needed at all, ...regardless of whether you're supercharged, turbocharged or N/A. Edit: Hurry up already btw. Don't be a chicken Gareth and get a throttle controller! It improves the experience. I have had it from long ago and also with Uprev and SC with no issues. Years ago I did a dyno pull with it to demonstrate it does not affect you figures but it did shift the curve slight to the left as expected since you increase the response. So FYI it will work if you have Uprev or any other ecu. It dors not interfere with it. Your AFR always be on target. It is not a power mod. All it does is to increase or decrease the throttle body response by altering the electronic signal from the pedal sensor to the TB. With drive by wire throttles unlike the direct response of a cable throttle the is a small " lag" and also the OEM map limits throttle response in the lower 3 gears to prevent wheel spin in bad weather. (This is what the Uprev removes) The throttle controller fools the TB to open in varying degrees depending on the mode you select. At Sport 9 mode it gives you 100% opening on all the gears and creates the responsiveness that makes the car feel more powerful. Conversely at eco7 it dumbs down the signal and therefore the response so pressing the pedal all the way down results in little opening of the TB = little air = little fuel = low power = economy. The ECU will still do it's thing depending on the air coming in and so the map is uncompromised. A lot of modern cars have a throttle controller inbuilt as standard eg the M button on the M3 though it also activated the EDC depending on your setting. AFAICR the was a DE that had Uprev on std everything and it made similar power to a car with full bolt ons and UPrev. I'm still of the opinion that UPrev will optimise your car's performance mods or no mods but the throttle controller is a must and way cheaper and gives you the feeling of power which is what everyone is looking for. The problem is people have been wanting huge power gains out of UPrev and get disappointed. You want power then go FI simples.

Well done ChrisðŸ‘! Looks like you still learning the car and taking it real easy seeing your lines but that will come I guess. Car sounds great. I think next year will be awesome and we should plan a day together with the other boys😎.

If you still have this shaking on braking after changing both front and rear pads and discs I would take a close look at the runout on all the hubs. Where the faces cleaned thoroughly? Do you have OEM or after market wheels? If after market check you've got the right spigot in each wheel centre bore it it's not crack and missing some bits. Also check you wheels are not bent or unbalanced. As mentioned above check for seized pistons but that should be obvious as the disc from the affected calliper would be rusted or extremely worn. This is unlikely but worth checking. On the suspension side of things. Which one was replaced? I suspect it was the compresion arms but the lower control arm bushes are often mised and get tend to go when the compresion arm have been neglected for long. This would clunk and could even be the cause of your symptoms. You just need to be thorough in your trouble shooting. Goodluck.

Happy birthday ol chap! 🎂 Don't let them get to you😎

Setting the plates to get your desired lock is easy as there are to types of plates(smooth and rough) and you are just deactivating some on both sides spider gears. However you need a press to install the new side bearings and oil seals for the driveshafts but importantly various size shims to get the lash perfect. You may also need new driveshaft circlip and new bolts depending on if you maimed the old ones. Fitting a FD at the sametime would make sense if that's what you want but involves even more work and precision to set backlash properly. IMO if someone quoted you £180 to to this and that includes the new parts I'll bite their hand off. It took me +4hrs to do mine but that was because I thought I had bought a 1.5way lsd but was sent a 2way and I was fighting the cams to set the cross shafts as 1.5way until Adrian and Darren pointed it out that the diff looked nothing like the pic of the 1.5way but a 2 way. It helps to have mates to help. I'm also glad now I got the 2 way. FWIW if you intend to dIY you should get a fitting kit which will have all the parts you need to get it right. You can also get different thickness of shims from Nissan.

Happy birthday Dan. 🎂🎉🎠Have a great day!

Which panel? The side panel on the center console or the panel beneath the pax side dashboard?

I did the same things and it saved my lots of time when I finally installed the SC. FWIW you should install a fuel return system (CJM stage 0 = your goals) and leave in the OEM injectors because putting in larger ones will mean you need a tune which is pointless. You can adjust base pressure to OEM with the Walbro pump and FRS installed. IMO the car felt smoother when I did this. I managed to use both stock belts after installing the Fluidampr pulley. But you can get belts from ECP. They come in small increments larger or smaller. If you are going the lenght of buying all this parts why the HKS? You can keep your power down around 400whp by using the vortech V2/V3 SCi trims with 3.33 pulley. The HKS is really low on torque particularly. As mentioned already I don't see any point of upreving now.

Nice looking zed but will agree that it's missing a distinctive rear wing to complete the Nismo ethos. I would also have gone with black or white to make it really stand out.

I'll just wait and see how it turns out in years to come. It's taken 9yrs to get this bad so pc must be better than just simple prime and paint . FWIW the parts were etch primed before pc and these guys claim good results with it. I might spray a coat of stone chip paint on the very vulnerable areas. It would be interesting to see the underbody of the BITCH now since Chris did the same thing.

Happy birthday Nettie🎂🎉🌟ðŸŽ!!!!!

Nice work and progress mate👠Would have come down if I knew of this congregation. Hope you are not putting the crank on the bearings without lubing with oil😳. Also when you get to restoring the underchassis parts I would highly recommend shot blasting and powder coating. I got all my undercarriage parts from pc and installed them and not only they look good but it's obvious they will be more corrosion resistant than painted parts. Just a few pics:

I've heard lots of good things about the Exa pump also and Boosted performance who has built very successful midmount turbo kits swears by them and has not had one fail in years. I would rather wait for a proven item as the oil pump is so critical.

Is it the super Q you got? Not that it matter much in terms of performance and judging by mine the ats clutch fourth have shown no wear at all afterthinking third change of oil. You will enjoy it and wonder why this is not the first mod to start with if you want to get the car to put that power down. Make sure you use a mineral based lsd oil. (Synthetic oil does not work on these plate diffs.) Motul PA 90 is magic and quietens the diff while letting it do its job. Kaaz, Cusco or nismo oil are all mineral and 75W90. It's also cheap and under 20quid for 2l. You only need 1.4l though I raise the rear of the car and get the full 2 litres in! I'm setup up for 2way with 60% lock and it's ok even for DD. It's smooth both on acel and decel but as the oil degrades the transition can be notchy. I find you need an oil change by 3k miles. If I had 1.5way I'll go for 80% locking with the 265/295 tyres I'm using but for std size road tyres I'll recommend 60% unless you would be using R888 or similar. EnjoyðŸ‘

Keep your head down Dazza and finish your car LOL!!

No worries ChrisðŸ‘

Ok bud👠I bet you you will not like it😳

Hey humpy, it will look ace. Always like the kit. I want the side skirts only but Chris never bother to reply my question. Will be waiting in earnest to see how you car turns out. Ps are you going to be selling you TS sideskirts? Dibs. I managed to finish off my chargespeed in the garage while completing my solid bushes install on staturday. Need something to hide me through until I can get hold of a do-luck skirt.

A Concorde pilot will be flummoxed at the sight of you dash🙀 Hahahahaha. Nice job.