GT4 Zed

Congrat ol' chapðŸ‘

Since nobody is saying; my weekend will be with Amyzed on a drive down the coast south of France. Swimming, partying, gambling, fine dining, clubbing and driving two amazing zeds. Don't mind if Carl came along because she's cool and it will definitely score me points to pull a local blonde with long legs 😎 Otherwise it's a weekend with zmanalex. Talking/fettling cars, beers and knock hill come to mind and when he's not looking raid his parts bin for anything I don't have yet.ðŸ‘

Subscribed👠It would be interesting to see how this turns out as I m planning my striping now. More progress pics Mark👀

+1 on what Adrian said but even a stage o will do with decent injectors like the injector dynamics 725cc or 1000cc assuming your goal is for under 550whp.

Do you mean remove A and replace with OEM and put A where the spring bucket arm is? Not sure it would work as the inner and out pickup points maybe different widths but it's wotrh a try. Secondly it may not be long enough, have enough range of adjustment and posdibky no strong enough. If I was you I would do the right thing first time or risk bigger damage when it fails.

Ok. The pics makes it all clear. A- is an aftermarket adjustable traction arm. Some people try to use this to adjust to but it's wrong. It's to dial out bumpsteer. I recommend setting it to stock length first and adjust in or out to reduce bumpsteer at the rear. B- aftermarket adjustable camber arm. Self explicit. Wind in or out to increase or decrease camber. I recommend you get rid of the eccentric cam bolt and washer and replace with lockout plates and bolt to banish any slip in you camber arm which will change your geo. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4155 C- OEM spring bucket arm which adjust for toe via eccentric bolt/washer. Very small range as you have found out. You need a tie arm delete as you don't need the bucket anymore. There are many brands out there selling these but I recommend SPL strongly. They also have the widest range I know of. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3361 If you wanted to keep the spring bucket and still have adjustability then SPL provides this which I have. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4148 Pics to explain what you will end up with. Note the use of the lockout kit in both camber and toe arms to subframe pick up. If you are keen eyed you will also notice he has a GT spec rear brace. If you need just a set of the SPL from the states I can help otherwise see the traders or get it yourself.

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Hi there, I take it you are trying for hellaflush or stance or whatever they call it this days as -4 degree of rear camber is just nuts and can't be good for handling. Not even real race cars run this. Anyway I'm not here to judge but first of there is no caster arm in the rear suspension. There are 3 lower control arms - the front traction arm which is not adjustable. You can get aftermarket adjustable arms which enables you to dial out bump steer. -the middle camber arm which adjust with the eccentric cam bolts on the subframe. You can get aftermarket arms but afaik only the SPL can get anywhere near 4 degrees! - the rear spring bucket arm which adjusts toe via eccentric cam bolts on the sunframe. You can get aftermarket arms without the spring bucket if you have a true rear coilover or airbags like yourself. Tbh you don't need alot of toe so aftermarket arms are purely for weight saving. With that out of the way it will help to state what you have, brand and I can advice how you can achieve the setup you want. Also clarify what you are calling caster arms. Finally how low are you now? Hope it helps.

Worcester. Pm your details and contact if you want to take this further.

If I get the OEM translink arm and or compression arm I can turn it around in a few days to under 1 week depending on work shifts. If you want the complete rear too we can do this on a Saturday. I can get mine stripped on the Friday and so its a straight swap for you and I can later fit your OEM parts after pressing in the SPL bushes. Where are you based?

So when you drive it on the road it will hop over the bumps, smell when you open the window, make a drone when you accelerate & scrap over speed bumps, sounds more like a track car than a road car I hate you

What surprise Col!!!! But needs must so it's totally understandable. I see an infinity G37 in the future. It's everything Nissan plus enough seats and power. I'm enjoying the M3 V8 which I would recommend of course if 2doors is acceptable for your needs. Goodluck with whatever choice and please don't disappear on us.

Horrible driving!!! And to think he got away with it! I was black flagged last time in Bedford about 2 months ago for noise!!! A mere 5db over. I later on have found I had a large exhaust leak where the hanger in the midsection had broken off taking a huge part of the exhaust with it. He ought to be bannedðŸ‘

As per my previous threads I have a fully bushed zed with Superpro and energy suspension urethane bushes where applicable and these transform the zed's handling immensely as you reduce the unwanted compliance from the OEM rubber bushes. My zed is soon getting stripped for track only duties and hence I'm taking the suspension to the ultimate level: full rose jointed SPL race bushes all round. It would be a shame to press out the superpro bushes in vgc to get these on! I will be prepared to swap and some cash my way anyone who can send me their OEM arm/suspension parts in good working order and I will send them back the the same with urethane bushes in-situ. All you just need is to refit and off you go. You will be saving on cost of the bushing and labour to hydraulically press the bushes. I'm starting with the front first as it's easier and I got a spare compression arm set which I've pressed the SPL arms onto. So for sale/swap in have - a set of OEM compression arms with Superpro bushes in VGC. I need: - a set of front lower control arm(translink) to swap for my mine already Superpro bushed. Both outer bush and shock bushes. If you get both arms as a set I will pass a decent discount. Keep eyes out for the rear parts including the subframe all bushed up. Because of the size of the rear parts I will be selling parts as a swap will be complicated onless you want to arrange to come down to Worcester and we swap sametime. I can guarantee cheap labour and save you over 50% of the cost of doing this from scratch. Some pics and links. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/46230-fitting-superpro-bushes-with-reviews-pics/page__fromsearch__1 Front compression arm Front lower control arm(translink) with Superpro. After pressing the SPL solid rose jointedbush on the compression arms. All the SPL bushes that will go on the car. Mods please before you say there are no dated pics and block this post appreciate that these parts are under the car and you cannot just take it out for a piccie hence I've put up as much evidence as possible.

First upgrade😉.

Don't be pessimistic Dazza👀 I'm just getting brake pads upgrade, SS lines/dot 5.1 fluids, spacer, springs, decat/filter and a front lip. A remap should get the whole thing purring like a kitten. I would can this modifying but std upgrades on any car to get the best visual, aural and performance out of the car for little money. And BTW what di you mean by ruined road cars! My zed is not ruined! It's the perfect fast road track car and very soon track only car. The v8 will remain a road car always.

10w40 is the wrong oil for our climate👀 though you can use it. 5w30 or 40 is all you need. Read up Opie or speak to oilman.

Nissan stuff is good enough! But I have used motul, gulf competition and redline MT90( recommended by oilman; and I concur is the best of the three in terms of smooth operation of the gb) Diff: motul or gulf. Engine: any fully synthetic 5w30 or 5w40 will do. I now use gulf as motul is bloody pricey now! The key is regular changes and mechanical sympathy.( good warm up and cool down) I change every fluid including brakes and clutch yearly and engine oil between 4-6k. It maybe excessive for a std spec/ driven car but it's gives you the freshest lubricant every time.

Welldone chap. Good little gizmo to haveðŸ‘

Let me put it this way, Nissan oil is not special or some kind of snake oil. So far as you get the same specs it willbe ok. As for molyslip or any friction modifier, it the biggest BS that has been going on for ages in the aftermarket circles! In the same lines as octane boosters etc. they may appear to work but really oils have all the additives and specs required to perform the job as R&D by the manufacturer and if it required molyslip they would have recommended it. To out it another way do you know what molyslip is and what the longterm effect is on your gb? I have used either Motul, redline and gulf oils for everything without additives and my zed has seen more track action that most, has been supercharged to 16psi for almost >6k miles and and just hit over 100k miles on the std engine and is still sweet as a nut. Don't follow the trend. Put the right stuff in your car and if you are in doubt speak to oilman or do some research before you leap. I certainly did and must be doing something right. Ok let the flaming begin but I've always want to speak against molyslip and the like.

Drove the M3 today up to Manchester using some back roads to avoid traffic. It was very interesting! Wetroads + DSC off = very lively🙀ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘😜! I have been spoilt with too much grip in my zed with all the suspension mods and had almost forgotten how much fun it could be coming out of corners sideways on demand! The electronic diff and EDC is very capable but it requires full attention when it's wet. The only thing I need is to engineer more feel in the steering which feels too artificial in both extremes. Otherwise I can report that this car is a hoot! It's everything the zed can do but with comfort except for less power/torque, suspension/steering poise and the NVH. Watch this space. I can feel some mods coming.

Thanks guys

Oh boy oh boy!!! Now that's what it's all about. Nice one Chris. You are going to have so much fun!!!!!!

I'm about to fully strip bumblebee in preparation for a cage to take here to the next level as a full blown track car. I only plan to leave the dash/central tunnel which I may retrim in alcantara or flock. Removing the putty is a pain I understand. What is the best product or method to use?

Dazza man! Stop pussy footing with that analogue engine. Here is what I would do😉 -RHD conversion with 350/370 engine/loom/ecu and gearbox. - full strip and nuts bolt restoration to original body and interior. - Lamborghini orancio pearl paint. Re chrome all exterior trims -Seam welding and chassis bracing. - upgrade bushing and suspension components. - upgrade brakes/disc with 350z brembo. -Retrim interior in black leader and alcantara combo. -headlight plastic cover And voila you get a perfect zed. Daily drivable, modern and capableðŸ‘. Purist will be able to see that every upgrade remains true to Nissan's z philosophy. Just my 2p. Someday.........someday !!!