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Lord have mercy! (Coolant airlock issue resolved)


SkylineV35
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Feeling your pain - have you seen this thread and in particular the advice from Kaizer and Zmanalex, as I can't help feeling an air lock is your problem given the info you have provided?

 

http://www.350z-uk.c...ix#entry1035578

 

Following Zedmanalex decription..

 

Ok i got some new symtoms its still overheating but after a good while.. when im on idle and reving to 3000rpm ther is no water sloshing/bubbling but when i rev to 4500rpm i can hear it again.. what does this mean? My heaters appear to be fine im getting heat in the cabin now. Does this mean the radiator weld stuff maybe blocking my heater matrix or blocking somewhere? Should I just do a fool flush and start again?

 

Thanks Saskhi

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Sorry to hear about your problems mate. I've never done the coolant on the zed but on other cars it never seemed this much hassle.

As for Wessex Nissan in Cardiff I wouldn't go anywhere near them. Useless.

If the car is now only over heating after a while is that because the fans aren't coming on?

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Sorry to hear about your problems mate. I've never done the coolant on the zed but on other cars it never seemed this much hassle.

As for Wessex Nissan in Cardiff I wouldn't go anywhere near them. Useless.

If the car is now only over heating after a while is that because the fans aren't coming on?

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

Fans come on and are nearly on constantly after a 25mins of driving

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Only thing I could think to do would be to try the bleeding procedure again that zmanalex posted up. I don't get why it's over heating though. You said about that radweld stuff didn't you? If so could that have blocked the rad like you said?

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

 

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The water pumps driven by the same chain that drives the cams (via 2 more chains) the front is a cog then behind that on the other side of a plate is an impeller if that wasn't spinning you would over heat very quickly and if it was damaged you would probably here it.

 

The air lock can stop the water circulating therefore overheating occurs.

 

You could also have a stuck thermostat or a dodgy rad cap. A stuck thermostat means poor or no circulation a bad rad cap means the water boils off quicker but then you would notice a loss of fluid after the car cools.

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Just had a second opinion. The guy is also suggesting headgaskets as he said he could smell coolant/ petrol on the oil dipstick and also the oil level is above max on the stick hes saying it could have leaked in there. He also said it could be the thermostat sticking from the radiator weld. I tried to reproduce the bubbling at 4000rpm but it wouldnt do it..until i got home =_=

 

He checked on the system he said roughly 15hours work give or take. about 800pounds in labour if all is easy to come off. But unfortunatley he couldnt do it and thats labour at 44pounds +vat. which sounds pretty fair.

Edited by SkylineV35
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The water pumps driven by the same chain that drives the cams (via 2 more chains) the front is a cog then behind that on the other side of a plate is an impeller if that wasn't spinning you would over heat very quickly and if it was damaged you would probably here it.

 

The air lock can stop the water circulating therefore overheating occurs.

 

You could also have a stuck thermostat or a dodgy rad cap. A stuck thermostat means poor or no circulation a bad rad cap means the water boils off quicker but then you would notice a loss of fluid after the car cools.

 

Im thinking it might be a stuck thermostat.. issit easy to just take out thermostat and just plug it back up without it? I want to try this and see if it still overheats. In theory if it still overheats then does this mean its the headgasket for sure?

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If the thermostat is stuck closed, if you take it out it'll just let the coolant travel to the rad from the off. So if that was your problem and it was removed then I guess the car wouldn't then overheat. I'm not expert so best wait for others who know more to reply. Had a stuck thermo on my fiesta and yes she would over heat a lot. Change it out and sorted. I don't know how easy it is to do on the zed though.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Edited by wizurd
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I can not believe a so called mechanic/ technician (is what hey call themselves nowadays)? would even contemplate opening a rad cap after a car has been running , as for hard hoses, they will feel hard as they should be, im not sure about the Z but most will be holding around 10-14 lbs, to increase the boiling point of water. As for head gasket there are a couple of things that can be done other than the visual things you have been told about, when i used to work in motor industry, there were some dye tests that were carried out on a sample of water taken from your cooling system, looking for high hydrocarbons in the water which can only get there from engine gasses,

Another thing i used to see, was a sniffer test from a exhaust gas anayliser, they used to hold it above the rad cap , run the engine upto temp untill thermo opened, and the probe could pick up hydrocarbons as the water circulated. confirmed a good few that way in my old times. it may be completly different now tho and may not work , oh how i miss old school mechanics/ engineering :p i

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If there's no mayo and no oil in the water, I cant see it being the head gasket. I still think it sounds like either the rad cap or thermostat. Do these cars have engine temp sensors that are likely to fail? On the MX5 it was located at the rear of the engine, a leaking CAS used to cause problems with them.

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Just reading through this thread, why did you put the rad weld in? Did you have a leak or something? Did the over heating just happen overnight? If it was the head gasket causing the water system to overheat then I'd expect some water to be getting into the cylinders and you'd be seeing huge clouds of white out of the exhaust. My money is on an airlock. I've never refilled a z but I remember doing my old v6 Alfa and having to fill the system slowly, whilst vigorously squeezing the rubber rad pipes to force through any air.

Edited by Sharpen
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Guys i rebled the system before work, then topt up the coolant when i finished drove her for 2hours solid.. no problems whatsoever.. temp gauge below halfway heaters hot hot! I really hope this is the end of it! Im never touching the coolant EVER again lmao.

 

Will watch the temp gauge and coolant level for another week, thanks for all the help and support guys! :)

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The rad failed on my mrs' mr2 and dumped all the coolant on our drive way. I replaced the rad and had to bleed the system, but got an airlock which was a right sod to get over-but once I got the coolant flowing and the air out all was fine - so fingers crossed yours doesn't overheat again!

 

 

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Dealers want frigging shooting for that kind of shoddy advice.

 

I reckon people should start to get written quotes off them for this kind of thing then when it's proven to be nothing like they've suggested it is, head office should be shown the suggested quote and the actual solution.

 

If head office don't care then trading standards or the local rag might

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The rad failed on my mrs' mr2 and dumped all the coolant on our drive way. I replaced the rad and had to bleed the system, but got an airlock which was a right sod to get over-but once I got the coolant flowing and the air out all was fine - so fingers crossed yours doesn't overheat again!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Prob similar to the 911 - rad at the front, engine at the rear and they always advise you raise the rear when filling

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