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How to - Fit "Circuit Sports" bonnet dampers


cs2000

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Hey all, these are pretty simple to fit really but equally you could make a mess of it without knowing till later so thought id do a guide.

 

I got my set from Steve at Redline Styling, this is what you get in the package. This is 2 dampers, 4 fixing mounts, 2 Allen key bolts and a Chinglish instruction set. Please take note, the black brackets are keyed, they have L or R stickers on them, this is from the inside perspective, so if your standing looking at the front of the car everything is backwards. The L bracket goes on the right and the R bracket on the left.

RQ4Os7.jpeg

 

 

So, lets get started by removing the brake fluid cover and popping the clips around it so you're able to remove it from the car.

8ZjYbI.jpeg

 

So, once this is out, you can see where I have attached the first of the two fixing points, this is the black bracket with a ball end on it. When you remove the black plastic cover above you will see there is already a bolt in here, this needs a size 10mm socket and it will come undone. Put the bracket over it and then put the factory bolt back in.

 

The pack comes with two Allen headed bolts which replace the standard bolts you have just removed, I chose to stick with the standard bolt however, your choice (if you stick with standard you will have to modify the OEM plastics that normally cover this). When this is on the car, don't do this up fully, 90% orso will do.

qOFxsF.jpeg

 

Next, remove the front bolt from the bonnet hinge, this needs a size 13mm socket and will be pretty stiff but should come off easy enough.

RQpidj.jpeg

 

Next, attach the bracket too it, you will notice the bracket has a fold in it which sits neatly over the hinge. Again, don't do this up fully, 90% orso will do.

zC4fVI.jpeg

 

So, then you need to take a look at the dampers, to get them to fit and line up you need to remove the small locking pin shown in this photo, to do this simply rotate the pin, the shape of it will pull the pin out of the socket.

nCzXBn.jpeg

 

Then, place the damper onto the hinges. The ends of them, swivel so if the ball and socket don't join up just give them a twist or a pull and make them fit. Once on as shown in the photo re-insert the locking pin you removed in the earlier step.

Gjsd46.jpeg

 

At this stage you need to do the same on the passenger side of the car, the steps are identical. Once you have done this, carefully lower the bonnet all the way down by hand and then allow the dampers to lift it again. You may hear some metal clunking noises as the brackets and thing shift on the bolts. When its back up, tighten the bolts for the brackets fully up and repeat the open/close procedure to ensure the bonnet still closes correctly.

 

Ok, so now you have two choices. I personally used the OEM bolts to affix the brackets to the wing as detailed above, however if you do this the plastics wont fit, so do the following. If however you used the Black Allen headed bolts, they should fit on just fine, skip this step. If you look at the photo below, you will notice two circular shapes on the flat piece of plastic on the edges, these need to be removed. Personally I used a dremmel and cut/sanded these out.

auFlss.jpeg

 

Once this is done, go back to the car and re-fit the plastics, and you will have this.

nTK5zC.jpeg

 

Its now just a case of pulling on the OEM bonnet prop and this will pretty easily come out as you wont need this any more.

 

 

Edited by cs2000
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Just a thought

 

Gas springs are commonly installed with the rod in the downward position. This will allow the oil

inside the system to stay in contact with the sealing mechanism in order to keep it moist,

thus prolonging the life of the gas spring by keeping the seal from drying out.

 

taken from here http://www.spdhardware.com/documents/how-to/SPD%20Gas%20Spring%20Insert.pdf

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Just a thought

 

Gas springs are commonly installed with the rod in the downward position. This will allow the oil

inside the system to stay in contact with the sealing mechanism in order to keep it moist,

thus prolonging the life of the gas spring by keeping the seal from drying out.

 

taken from here http://www.spdhardware.com/documents/how-to/SPD%20Gas%20Spring%20Insert.pdf

 

As I say in the guide, I fitted them as per the photo and then reverted them afterwards ;) just didn't take photos of it :D

 

Cheers RT, in reality its a 10 minuite job in all honestly ;)

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Just a thought

 

Gas springs are commonly installed with the rod in the downward position. This will allow the oil

inside the system to stay in contact with the sealing mechanism in order to keep it moist,

thus prolonging the life of the gas spring by keeping the seal from drying out.

 

taken from here http://www.spdhardwa...ring Insert.pdf

 

As I say in the guide, I fitted them as per the photo and then reverted them afterwards ;) just didn't take photos of it :D

 

Cheers RT, in reality its a 10 minuite job in all honestly ;)

Sorry mate didnt see that bit :doh:

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Just a thought

 

Gas springs are commonly installed with the rod in the downward position. This will allow the oil

inside the system to stay in contact with the sealing mechanism in order to keep it moist,

thus prolonging the life of the gas spring by keeping the seal from drying out.

 

taken from here http://www.spdhardwa...ring Insert.pdf

 

As I say in the guide, I fitted them as per the photo and then reverted them afterwards ;) just didn't take photos of it :D

 

Cheers RT, in reality its a 10 minuite job in all honestly ;)

 

I've got the same kit and my photos showed it fitting the correct way around. So I fitted mine the correct way round. Maybe your instructions are dodgy.

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Ok, so new photo (this is also now im the first post) showing them fitted correctly.

 

dampers 1.jpg

 

Heres two photos of my instructions, the first one clearly shows the hood and the larger diameter part of the lifters in contact with it.

 

dampers 2.jpg

 

And now the other picture that shows the thinner part in contact with the wing.

 

dampers 3.jpg

 

dampers 1.jpg

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Followed this guide today, really helpful as the Chinglish instructions were hard to follow! Cheers, they look great (round the right way) :)

 

Does the old prop come out easily?

Edited by Jp606
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

You will love these 14N.

I haven't got any on my Zed yet but I've had them on probably 2-3 of my previous car's and it make's working on the engine bay so much easier & safer. :thumbs:

 

You're right, I DO love them! If you ever do want some for your Zed GM, let me know.... ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

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