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Changed spark plugs but something not right.


RobPhoboS

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Hey guys,

 

I changed my spark plugs yesterday, and after firing the car up it sounded quite different (actually a bit like a v8 :teeth: ) and was vibrating a bit more than normal.

I'm guessing it's likely I've not got one tightened up enough, or a coil pack isn't properly pushed down.

So I'm gonna have to go out there in a while and sort this tonight (only car I have) :surrender:

 

The only thing I did which was a mistake was disconnecting what looked like a fuel line on the left side of the engine, just above the last spark plug area.

And I unclamped another hose towards the front on the left side again, which seemed to have a little bit of oil in it. (I'll get some pictures)

 

That was the only issue I have with the guides, it didn't show which other pipes you can disconnect.

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You didnt get any wires the wrong way round on the coil packs did you?

As in crossed over?

 

I think the "fuel line" you took off (if it goes to a small grey thing with other pipes on it) is the vacum release for the fuel vapour trap.

 

The one on the front sounds like the cam breather make sure they are both back on - leaving them of will probaly make the car idle really fast.

 

Pics would be good.

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Hahahaha! Another one bites the dust!!!!!

Hi Robbo you would not be the first to swap the cables the wrong way round :)

Post some pics so we can point the gaff or trying reswaping some cables again. The rear cylinders are the usual culprits.

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Not that it is of any help to ou now but for others contemplating changing their plugs, do them one at a time. Then there's no chance of getting the coil wiring crossed.

 

When I did mine I don't recall disconnecting any pipes other than the air intake tube.

 

+1. I only did one at a time as it was so easy to mess things up.

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Many thanks guys, I'll be gearing up to head into the cold shortly :lol: (at this time of night on a sunday - argh fooking hung over)

I'm fairly certain I've not got anything mixed up with the wires as they are soo short and flex back to their original positions.

 

Hopefully I can sort it out but what a pain !

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Head torch is knackered, so I've given up and battle will commence in the morning now.

I did quickly inspect the connections, they all seem fine, and nothing has been accidentally left out.

 

I'm wondering if perhaps the first couple I put in, if they are tight enough ?

When I was using the ratchet I was just going until it wasn't easy anymore, so not over tightened but the first ones may be looser.

 

Here are some snaps of the spark plugs:

 

New/old

20130112140022.jpg

 

 

The one on the right is from the rear, both rear ones looked like that and the rest were like the one on the left.

20130113221632.jpg

 

They were changed about 21,000 miles ago.

Edited by RobPhoboS
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Did you slip off the coil pack connectors and check the pins?

 

Also if you are not using a torque wrench then remember that there is a crush washer on each plug.

 

With the car ticking over, pull the coil pack connectors off one at a time in turn to establish which cyl.is causing the issue.

 

The plugs come preset, however it wont be the first time that someone has accidently knocked the electrode while fitting thus closing the gap.

 

Finally, might be a faulty new plug, however I have literally sold thousands without issue.

 

Alex :)

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As others have said I`m sure it`s just a Bennet special (Crossed Wire) or a closed gap on one of the plugs

 

Looks like you could do with some new rocker covers to :wink:

 

I was going to say they look very oily.

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Ah that's what is causing the oil on the threads ?

I shan't be doing that myself, I'll take it to one of the garages :lol:

 

Well I've just taken all of the left side plugs out, one of them had a tiny bit of foil (wtf) between the tip and connector. They all had a bit of oil on the threads which I'm guessing is caused by that rocker cover ?

It does look a bit oily down the right side near the dip stick, not horrendous but definitely signs around that height (pics coming).

 

(definitely a LOT faster this time around doing it, much easier now despite the snow :surrender: )

Edited by RobPhoboS
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Right the problem is still there.

The yellow engine light it on (came on the other night after firing it up the first time), does it require an ECU reset now ?

 

I still need to 'pull the coil pack connectors off one at a time' - I presume you mean the grey connector ?

(I presume you'd do this to figure out if the spark plug is knackered ?)

 

I also inspected the coilpacks, I could only see the spring inside all of them, no 'pin' that I could see.

Edited by RobPhoboS
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it will have 2 coil leads transposed normally even bank number 4 and 6 , the leads don't go in the position like they look like they should but if you look carefully they are numbered.

 

photofwc.jpg

 

 

Oil on threads isnt anything to worry about imho. The plugs are very worn thou typical 350Z.

 

Any questions Rob ask away.

Edited by Mark@Abbey m/s
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Hey Mark, many thanks for the reply :)

I saw the numbers on some of the leads but a couple had perished.

 

If looking head on at the engine, what are the corresponding numbers for the coil packs ?

 

(I'll just go out there now and get some photo's, as it may help others if they've attempted this and cocked up as well :lol: )

Edited by RobPhoboS
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I recently did my plugs and when we put it all back together we'd crossed the one at the back with the middle one on the rut side (inlet pipe side) thus causing a misfire. Simply swap them back over and all good, I suspect the very same. I also had a bit of oil, this is fine, so long as they are not covered in thick oil.

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I reset the ECU earlier with the pedal dance BUT after coming back from a 15 min trip, I noticed that the CEL light has come back on.

The car feels fine but I wonder if it's got anything to do with my car being decatted ? (I only mention this as Jez said it may come on after they did some work for me - although he said that would happen a few mins down the road)

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Someone should write up a dummies guide to changing plugs on here :lol:

 

Whenever I take anything apart that could possibly be put back the wrong way I mark the parts with a chalk pen or permanent marker in a simple manner that I can understand for example I would mark the grey plugs F(front) M(middle) B(back) can`t go wrong that way :blush:

But luckily on most modern vehicles there are very few plugs you can put in the wrong place as they all tend to have a different shape. With the exception to the coil packs of course :teeth:

 

Glad you got to the bottom of the problem

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