Jump to content

My Progress UPDATED 18/11/2010 More 3M Di Noc


AlexZ

Recommended Posts

Nice to see a mechanic who knows what grease is for!!!! Great informative thread, well done.

 

I'm not a mechanic mate, just know a little about a little ;) ...I estimate accident damage on crashed vehicles. I have serviced and maintained all my own vehicles (and friends) for the last 13 years though... :thumbs:

 

Thanks for the nice comments :teeth:

 

Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 267
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi all, when I changed the oils last week I noticed the front brake pads ware a little worse for wear. On Saturday morning I used the ram at work again and sorted them...This is the first time I’ve done Brembo brakes and it wasn’t bad at all.

 

I took a few Images along the way because I couldn’t find many when I searched the forum before I started...

 

Remove the front wheel. (21mm Socket and a torque setting of 108Nm, I wrap the socket in masking tape to save it from marking the alloy inside the nut holes).

 

Removing the pads

 

DSC05375.jpg

DSC05376.jpg

DSC05377.jpg

DSC05378.jpg

 

Locate the securing K pins on the pads retainer pins...

DSC05382.jpg

DSC05383.jpg

 

With the K pins removed, get a punch or correct size item and remove the lower pad retainer pin..The anti vibration spring will flick out so go careful...

DSC05384.jpg

DSC05386.jpg

 

Now open the bonnet and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, this will aid when you push the pistons back.

DSC05387.jpg

 

Ok, your caliper should now have now parts other than the pads left in it...I used a screw driver to push the pads back a little then leaved the pads out...remember there may be a lip round the edge of the disk and you have to get the pads over this..

DSC05388.jpg

DSC05393.jpg

DSC05395.jpg

 

Removing the Brembo caliper.

 

With the pads out the caliper, the disk should be lose on the hub...Just whip the two rear 22mm bolts out to remove the caliper. (torque 152Nm) DSC05396.jpg

DSC05397.jpg

 

I also removed the brake line bracket bolts to make hanging the calliper easier...two 12mm bolts..

DSC05399.jpg

DSC05400.jpg

 

Preparing the disk for the new pads...

 

If the disks are older you may find a little corrosion and a lip round the outer rim edge. Best thing to do when replacing the pads is make the disk as smooth and new as possible. I removed the lip with a hammer first, then smoothed the rest out with a grinder.

DSC05402.jpg

DSC05403.jpg

DSC05404.jpg

 

Once the lose rust and lip has been removed I used the air line to blow out all the vented slots through the disk...once happy with the main disk I used some course sand paper to deglaze the disk face, this gives the pad a new face to mate with. Once your happy with all the prep work get some brake cleaner and clean all metal surfaces.

DSC05405.jpg

DSC05406.jpg

DSC05407.jpg

 

With the disk ready for action I sorted the caliper for the new pads. First I cleaned the metal slides the pads make contact with. I just wiped them with a rag and brake cleaner until no more dirt would come off. I also pushed the four pistons back enough to get the new thick pads in. I used a spanner head over each piston while holding the other 3 with my spare fingers.

DSC05409.jpg

 

Rebuild.

I put a little copper grease round the inside of the disk bore to make it easier next time they have to come off... Then slip the disk back onto the hub.

DSC05411.jpg

 

I then borrowed the anti squeal shims from the O.E pads and swapped them over to the new pads. I used a little copper grease where each piston would meet the pads and where the pad meets the caliper. If you put a couple of dots of grease on the shim this will hold the shim to the pad while you get them back in the caliper. Some people use a little sand paper on the new friction material on the pads. I did this but some people don’t bother...each to their own if you ask me.

DSC05412.jpg

DSC05413.jpg

DSC05414.jpg

DSC05415.jpg

 

Once the pads are back in, just rebuild the caliper as you took it apart making sure all the bits have a home and all the torque setting are correct... Job Done.

DSC05416.jpg

DSC05417.jpg

 

I then used the following process to bed the new pads into the deglazed disk and everything is coolio...Break bleed in the near future.... (Thanks ZMAN)

 

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=19501

 

This isn’t a guide, just how I did mind...

 

With the brakes been in for a couple of day they feel good. I haven’t really used them hard yet but the overall feel is fine...

Thanks Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very good write ups in this thread, nice to see you taking good care of her aswell :)

 

Can you remember what you used to get the exhaust tips so shiny? Would it also work on the backbox or do they go all 'lumpy' when weathered?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very good write ups in this thread, nice to see you taking good care of her aswell :)

 

Can you remember what you used to get the exhaust tips so shiny? Would it also work on the backbox or do they go all 'lumpy' when weathered?

 

Thanks for the comments dude.... :teeth:

 

I used some really fine wet & dry first to remove the built up soot, the Autosol to finish them off... took a little while but well worth it if you ask me... :yahoo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent writeup, any time I change pads I clean the cylinders first before pushing them into the caliper though? Maybe yours didn't need a clean? I use brake fluid to lubricate around the cylinder too. :snack:

 

Good call man, I did wipe the piston faces with a dry cloth but nothing major....I agree with the brake fluid on the pistons aswell....I pushed all 8 pistons back without trouble so there was no need for lube this time. :yahoo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very good write ups in this thread, nice to see you taking good care of her aswell :)

 

Can you remember what you used to get the exhaust tips so shiny? Would it also work on the backbox or do they go all 'lumpy' when weathered?

 

Thanks for the comments dude.... :teeth:

 

I used some really fine wet & dry first to remove the built up soot, the Autosol to finish them off... took a little while but well worth it if you ask me... :yahoo:

 

Cheers will give it a go B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Evening guys, this ones isnt really down to me more my brother. I read the thread about folding mirrors with the key fob and mentioned it to my brother. I said I bet you can't make the mirror fold with the key fob but allow the interior switch to work...

 

He told me to whip the door trim off...had a peep and this is what he came up with... :thumbs:

 

I dont know the full detials of how he did it, but it works fine and is cool..I dont have to flick that switch anymore and F down have to worry about my mirror be on the road side one morning that day i forget to fold them in.

 

The mirror fold off the remote, interior switch and the door barrel. :thumbs:

 

DSCF2167.jpg

DSCF2173.jpg

DSCF2177.jpg

DSCF2178.jpg

DSCF2179.jpg

DSCF2185.jpg

DSCF2186.jpg

DSCF2187.jpg

DSCF2188.jpg

DSCF2190.jpg

DSCF2191.jpg

DSCF2192.jpg

DSCF2193.jpg

 

Alexz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

makes sense mate :) i like the idea of the switch in the door saves you tapping the central locking signal.

 

if you lock the doors while driving this would auto fold? can this then be overridden via the manual fold/unfold button?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

makes sense mate :) i like the idea of the switch in the door saves you tapping the central locking signal.

 

if you lock the doors while driving this would auto fold? can this then be overridden via the manual fold/unfold button?

 

 

Thats right mate, I told him to bare in mind some people will have anti hijack alarms that lock the doors via time or movement etc...The microswitch rocks...very simple but so effect and cost nothing. :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think he'll be happy with 10 people paying £10 for a list of the parts used and a wiring diagram....lol....£100 for a days work isnt to bad...I'm just happy he I mentioned it to him lol :teeth:

 

I'd give him a tenner for list of parts and a diagram if this works - been waiting for it for ages..... :snack:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folding mirrors :yahoo: a great mod :thumbs:

 

Hi Pimm, if im honest I wouldnt have thought about it until the thread was started...after two years and no sucsess you somtimes need a fresh mind on the job...My brother rocks when it comes to solving problems... :teeth::yahoo:

 

A wiring diagram will be avaiable when he get round to it (I hopeing this weekend) for £10 if you fancy the mod. Please add your name to the list or pm me. :thumbs:

 

 

Alexz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...