ZMANALEX

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Plenty here: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=370Z+exhaust&sxsrf=ALeKk02z6tmtBkR34xvmt51boSjrAixmHw:1607863181360&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjtuJaO_crtAhURsXEKHSvGAgsQ_AUoA3oECAMQBQ&biw=1249&bih=638

If the car is new to you and you are unsure of the past service history then I would advise getting a 60,000 mile service completed by a recommended 350Z Indy specialist. The drive belt should be replaced if showing signs of wear or is past the self adjusting maximum mark. The spark plugs should be replaced if the gap exceeds 0.055in. The diff fluid change is straight forward and should be changed depending on the past driving conditions. Have a look at the Nissan service intervals etc below. https://www.nissan-cdn.net/content/dam/Nissan/za/Maintenance/370Z.pdf

When was the last service and what did it entail?

From a 2007 350Z HR, 42,000 miles, known engine. £3000 shipped, mainland UK. More images and details on request.

From a 2006 350Z, DE Rev Up, 46,000 miles, known engine. £2000 shipped mainland UK. More pictures and details on request.

From a 2005 350Z DE, Non Rev Up, 29.000 miles, known engine. £1750 shipped mainland UK. More pictures and details on request.

It is getting harder to remove wheel lock nuts if you have misplaced your socket as Nissan and Mcgard have stopped updating their master socket sets especially the later model GT-Rs. I have had 3 cars in this week with that issue and in particular the Mcgard wheel nuts are very difficult to remove without a proper socket as they have a revolving collar design and removing them without damaging the alloy wheel can be a challenge. You have been warned so take a note of the number of your socket now, just in case you have to reorder.

have a read at this, it is fairly accurate and a DIY: http://www.foxwellsupport.com/how-to-reset-nissan-350z-srs-light-on/ Also, this actually does work pretty well: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=Foxwell+NT650&_sacat=0

Walk, and keep on walking.

The first thing to do is reset the SAS. You should not have to do this however if you moved the clockspring then this will be your issue Out 1 spline will throw the SAS out by 10 degrees and give you all the issues that you mention. If you have rotated the clockspring excessively then you may have damaged it. Try the SAS reset first.

Usually the key does not work, due to lack of use.

Providing you do not lock it.

I have always struggled to get the torx screws out insitu without damaging them and I have all the correct tools. Much quicker and easier just to split. if you do not want to go that route, then simply just top and tail the pad backing plate until they are a good fit in the caliper.

To get rid of the oxidisation on the caliper which causes the stainless steel slipper guide to become misaligned you will have to split the caliper to remove the torx screws that hold the slipper in place I am afraid. You will also have to top and tail the pads to make sure that they are not a tight fit within the caliper, this is why you are having binding issues. Brembo O rings are in stock if you decide to go this recommended route.

What he says ^^^^ if you are on an economy drive. I use proper tailored covers for display purposes, and for prestige high end cars, however for general purpose outside use the Halfords covers will be good and cost circa £70.00 I have about 6 of these in permanent outside use and they do a good job. Like any outside car cover, Just make sure that your car is spotless before you fit the cover and well out of any winds as the paint can easily get damaged.

I would scratch your track itch next year with what you have at the minute as one event at Bedford is not enough to make informed decisions. I would get a proper 4 wheel alignment done by a specialist who will talk through what you want to achieve and what your driving style is and see if that makes any difference. Without lowering, there will be enough adjustment on the OEM snail cams on the rear for Camber and Toe. There will also be enough adjustment on the front for Toe. You may get some benefit from adjustable fronttop arms depending on what you are trying to achieve. Decent adjustable sway bars would be a good move. If you are on a budget and not to serious then it will be a case of suck and see.

You will get these from your local Nissan dealership:

What spring washer are you referring to?

PM received and replied to. The USA and UK part # is the same.

I run SPL Solid Diff Bushings for serious track use.

Okay for road use but not for hard track.

Yes, the Eibach kit gives you the extra adjustment required when you require to dial the geometry back into spec after lowering etc. and a template is included in the kit for you to do this. If you simply require a kit to replace like for like with no cutting or drilling, then I have these in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.