ZMANALEX

If they fitted a decent brand of disc and you have not cooked them on track then they will not be warped, and you will more than likely find that you have a DTV issue. Alex.

Best to stick with the steel nut options. Alex.

As what Neil has said, I have tried most of them and none get even close to Snap On, however probably more than you will require if it is just for occasional use. Alex.

Check out the restoration business and then make an informed decision keeping in mind that the insurance recommended garages more often than not carry out quite poor work. If you decide on the restoration option then you can always pop in on a daily basis to check on the progress being made. Alex.

I never reply to these type ot threads, by the way where is twobears?

This works quite well, check out all the images. http://www.jdl-brakes.com/revozport-track-front-splitter-with-brake-duct-kit-nissan-r35-gtr.html Alex

Happy days Irfan. Hope that it all goes well for you. Alex.

Graham, PM received and replied to: Alex.

The ducting and deflectors on the R35 track pack direct the cold air directly onto the front and rear calipers and rotors hence the reduction of 105 degrees C on front and 44 degrees C on rear whilst on track. Informed and actual personal experiences carries much more weight than what you read and hear on forums and magazines. Good luck with what ever plans you have as there are numerous successful ways to duct the brakes on the 35.

Have other plans for the actual caliper cooling, but want to see if I can get the front bumper looking right before I go down that route. Also want something more aggressive on the front to match the rear spoiler I am planning. Last I heard, the track pack ducts were not actually ducted to the calipers....... You heard wrong as they work very well. Alex.

For the front, the OEM track pack R35 front bumper works a treat and it has carbon brake cooling ducts built in, however you will require air deflectors to direct the air to the calipers and rotors. This is what I run, and on track it has reduced my front brake temperatures by 105 degress C and the rear kit works reasonably well also with a reduction of 44 degrees C. Alex.

Welcome along.

The compression rod is also affectionately known as the banana arm Daryl. Alex

Could just be pad movement within the caliper as some aftermarket pads are not a "perfect" fit. Alex.

Lower control arms are easy to swop out Daryl and definately a DIY. The lower compression rods can be a bit more trickier if the bushing is seized on the chassis pin. Alex.

Get the Uprev done first Steven and then perhaps a set of plugs if issue still there. Plenty preowned coil packs and injectors are in stock if required. Alex.

HKS is a far better oil filter than the K&N, and the Motul fluid that you quote is good for the VQ35DE. Alex.

Always a grey area with loads of "outs" for the insurance companies on wear and tear items. As has been said above plus if you manage to convince the insurance warranty company to pay out then they will most definately be looking at a contribution from your self for "betterment". Alex.

Sorry, perhaps I never made myself clear: I did not mean completely weld or fill up the hole in the shaft. The hole will have to be sufficiently filled with weld or metal filler to hold the inner half moon (woodruff key in place) If you heat weld, you will have to replace the oil seal. If it was me I would use a propriety metal weld/filler to sculpture the rear half moon to the shaft. I would also consider using extra metal weld/filler to secure the belt "sprocket" to the shaft, however removal in the future may prove extremely difficult. You will have to make sure that the belt "sprocket" is in good shape and also when fitted that it is runnung true. The above "botch" is fairly straight forward but should only be carried out by competent person who has an engineering understanding. If carried out properly then you should have no further issues, however a replacement crank is the professional fix. I have not included all the detailed procedures, but the above will give you an indication of the cheap fix. Alex.

LMGT4 clip type are In stock but as you know these are not cheap. Please confirm if it is LMGT4 or GT4 that you require. Drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

PM received and replied to: Weld or fill the hole with some metal filler making sure that the shaft is round and not oversized so that the pulley is a snug fit. Make sure that the inside of the pulley is round and not damaged or oval. Make sure that the bolt on the crank goes fully home. Fit new genuine half moon keys and rebuild. Sorted: Drama over. Alex.

Yes, a proper 4 wheel computerised geometry check and adjust will fix your issues providing the rack rod is not bent, however no drama there as I have plenty in stock if required. Alex.

When the steering geometry is adjusted the steering wheel should be clamped in the straight ahead position prior to adjustment. Alex.

You may well have bent the rack rod which screws into the rod end. However the realignment of the steering wheel is part of the geometry adjustment. Alex.

If the pumpkin is complete and has the correct stubby shafts fitted then all should be good. Alex.