ZMANALEX

I have a fuel return that came off my 666 bhp 350 VQ35DE. What model of 350 do you have and what are you running?

Not nearly enough info to help you with an informed fix. Never seen a melted pad and done thousands of track day miles. What type of track driving are you doing.? What circuit ? How many laps between cool downs ?, What is your cool down time period ? Are you getting pad fade ? Are you getting brake fade ? What fluid are you using ? Are you doing warm up and cool down laps ?

I have one which may be available shortly:

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Ewen is in Germany this week, however I can answer your questions. Best to use genuine Nissan gearbox fluids and the Molyslip is an additive. Best also to stick with the Nissan slave cyl. CMS have all the above in stock. If you require to contact Ewen before next Monday, then just drop him an email. Alex.

Varta or Yuasa work for me. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-BATTERY-FOR-NISSAN-350-Z-3-5-280HP-02-12V-HEAVY-DUTY-VARTA-BLUE-D47-/311171019746?hash=item48733cf3e2:g:SzUAAOSwQM9UYzx8 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Nissan-350Z-Z33-3-5-Gran-Turismo-4-296-Yuasa-Battery-Vq35De-02-05-12-05-005-/371317460869?fits=Model%3A350+Z&hash=item56743ecf85:g:5XsAAOSwBP9UWO4v

I require a set as per left image with the clip fixing, and not the one on the right with the seal. Please confirm what you have.

Possibly still some air in the hydraulic system.

Best to get it in for a 4 wheel alignment asap.as any comments will be pure speculation. Afterwards, it will drive like a new car if set up properly.

Pix please for an informed reply.

Check out the best tyre reviews and move forward from there. However I would be inclined to swop out all 4 at the same time.

Yes, repairable but not worth the time and effort, Bin it and start again.

I think that I would be avoiding you as well. :lol:

All DE slaves and lines and banjos are the same. Can't comment on what Stoptech you have bought tho'

What Gassy has said you dumbwit: Just swop over the original banjo bolt and the 2 copper washers. All DE slaves are the same no matter the year. You really are a lost cause mate so might be a good plan to get the garage to sort out the mess that you now find yourself in as you won't be able to bleed the hydraulics on your own. .

I think that the seal in the slave has failed and that it is the rubber boot on the slave that has popped off. No point in bleeding until the new slave and line is fitted. edit: Ignore above, looks like the hose has failed.

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Is there a dealer or a website. Please let me know PM received and replied to.

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Again, larger sump, not going to solve the issue is it, baffled or not. We are only trying to help, however if you think that you know all the answers then I will just butt out.

There are numerous known issues which will effect oil pressure if you are experiencing this when sitting stationery. Is the issue present when drifting on track ? Your original post does not make this clear. Also DE or HR ?

I'm with BM on this one as oil pressure will be effected when drifting without a larger baffled sump.

Very easy if you know what you are doing, however it is a two man operation to bleed the clutch using the conventional method. Might be a plan to get the garage to do it when they are bleeding your brakes.

Denso FXE22HR11 iridium Would it be worth checking gap size or should they be already set ? They are preset, however I always check them before fitting.