Ekona

987 looks better over the rear quarter, but the 981 trumps it everywhere else. So perfectly designed, and now better looking than the 911. 987S is the best usable every day car you can buy for that kind of money, end of. Sure, you take a punt on IMS/bore score issues on a gen1, but then all cars have their foibles and the 9x6/9x7 range is no different. Even if you ignored the performance figures, nothing prepares you for just how well balanced the car is. In terms of modding, just be prepared to take a massive step up in costs, but in terms of overall running they're no different than the Zed. Better fuel economy too! They didn't make a 3.2L Cayman, it was always a 3.4 from the factory and gen1 cars are just as likely to have issues as the 986 3.2 cars. The only ones that definitely do not are the gen2 cars, as they do not have the IMS to fail. Only the gen2 3.4 is a DFI lump, though. What's the budget?

Tyre pressures, tyre sizes, tyre makes, geometry... All good things to check, and easy too.

Don't even think about touching that car. 1. It's not as well built or as well finished as you think. 2. The bloke has had that car sitting around for years now, and only paid a fraction of the asking price for it as Paul Woods knew that there was a long way to go until the car would be ready, and didn't have the time and/or inclination to finish it. 3. The mk1 isn't actually that great a chassis to be starting with. Paul's a great bloke with a lot of know-how, but sometimes I don't always agree with his engineering methods. He knows he's not perfect though, which is why a lot of people used him as he was very honest. I've driven a couple of his V6 conversions (both mk2 and mk3) and a 3S-GTE swap (into a mk1) and they're great fun, but there was a LOT of fettling over the years to get them right. I'm talking about on an individual car basis, not just the kits. I'm not trying to knock the guy, he's well ahead of what I could achieve, but even he would admit that this car is not what you think it is.

Neil's right: When you close the throttle (i.e. the overrun) there is still fuel in the system. As there's no air being drawn in the engine cannot burn this, so it gets passed through the valves and ignites when it hits the very hot exhaust. It's running rich very briefly, not lean. The main time an OEM engine runs lean is on the part throttle cruise where it can get away with it for fuel consumption benefits, otherwise running rich is a MUCH safer place to be. Bore wash is less likely than pre-detonation.

If only there was either a specialist club site with a For Sale forum on, or maybe a hugely popular motoring site with a massive classified section, or even a generic sell all cars kinda website...

Good news Leaking from a nut, or the gland? Doesn't really explain the symptoms, but then water is funny old stuff.

Save yourself the pennies and get this one, they're all the same Or if you have a smartphone, grab a cheapy BT (for Android) or WiFI (for iOS) adaptor from eBay for £5 then use either Torque or DashCommand respectively. I bought this one for use with my iPhone, and it works a treat.

Difficult to see perhaps, but not impossible. Much like a wrap, something else that you can see edges on. Putting any film over the paint affects the light getting to it, and dulls the finish. You cannot get round that, no matter the cost of the stuff used.

Personally, I wouldn't bother. Any paint film dulls the finish and you can see the edges as clear as day, which IMHO spoils the car. Sure, some are better than others, but they're all visible and dull. The posh coatings are fine, but I wouldn't go down that route as you can achieve the same results with a bloody good scrub and LSP. Also, as above there's zero protection against stone chips. It's a nice car matey, don't ruin it with films.

How the hell can you use fifty likes a day?! There's not even that many interesting posts a week on here, let alone a day!

Sounds very much like the seals are gone, if it's leaking both sides.

Ah, tilers. Wonderful. Time to send your mate the bill, methinks. Odds-on now it's a blockage of grout and adhesive.

That's exactly what I was thinking. This could well be a blockage of some kind.

So it's taking 12hrs for 80L of water to seep through? Odd. Does it seep, or does it pour? Drips or torrential?

No. Compression fittings are NOT push fit plastic. Compression fittings work on a nut and olive (brass or copper if metal, rubber if plastic) forcing against each other to create a seal. Plastic push fit is something altogether different, and it's also horrible cheap sh*t used by either DIYers (vaguely understandable) or cheap plumbers (completely unacceptable IMHO).

This is pretty much going to be impossible to diagnose without actually being there. That said, the fact it's taking 12 hours to get there means I'd put my money on it not being a leak on any of the supply pipes. A soil pipe leak is more likely. Does it happen when you take a bath or when you take a shower? Any difference in time scales? Realistically, you're going to have to start removing panels and floorboards until you find the point of the leak: I'm willing to bet that you'll soon find the section of floor/ceiling that's saturated, which will make it easier to find the problem. Also, plumber call-out on Jan 1st: Bang goes the Zed modding fund!

The celebrating may now begin

IT'S NOT 2015 YET

Or [media]. Make sure you drop the s from the https part of the YT address though, the forum doesn't like it otherwise.

At least people are using the search!

You can get PS2s still, as they make them in N rating for 997 Porsches. PS3 was never designed to replace PS2, hence why I think it was very poor show on Michelin to brand them as such.

Spain definitely has 97+. You can get it anywhere, as I stopped in some pretty remote places when I did my tour last year and never had an issue.

Ah well, one good way to find out, just fit it!

Heh, that's awesome!

Police are like doctors, there's no real need for them to know every single law ever. For the most part, a basic overview is more than enough.