Ekona

If you must then use ionised water at least, not tap crap. Tbh that bottle is only an overflow reservoir, keep an eye on it over the day and just get some coolant from Nissan when you get a chance.

More updates! I've been down to Abbey this morning and they've confirmed what I suspected all along: It's all in my head and I'm a bit of a nutter A thorough test drive proved that there's no issue and I'm just looking for faults now. That said, the uprated clutch line from Adam arrived yesterday (very quick delivery!) so I'm going to fit that as well next week now it's here, if nothing else pedal feel should be improved. Big thanks to the guys at Abbey for this morning, once again 1st class service and it was great to meet you as well.

Change the master cylinder. I've had the same fault recently, and changing the slave did nothing to improve it. However, changing the master solved it perfectly. Also the clutch isn't going to last very long if you rag it like that, so either don't do it or get an uprated clutch. You've more than likely knackered the one already in there by now so it probably needs changing anyway.

What's the actual budget available? Does it have to be fun?

Define 'drive it hard from stationary'? Did they replace the master cylinder as well? How about the clutch line? Why did they rebuild the gearbox?

Morgaldo!

Yes. Yes it does. No, you've changed the entire balance of the car. You've given the rears better grip so you've shifted the bias for both braking and grip backwards, which creates an inherent instability. If your rears have more grip than the front you will experience understeer. You can do that with mixed tyres, tyre pressures or altering the width of the tyres, but the end result is exactly the same. I'm struggling to put it in simpler terms for people to understand, I really don't think it's that hard to comprehend. As far as Docwra and the manufacturers with mixed tyres go, I'm investigating that as we speak. It is true that Pirelli make some tyres that are completely different externally that they claim are safe to work together, and I was unaware of this when writing the original post. I've e-mailed them directly for clarification, and have recieved the most generic response back you can possibly imagine: As such, I intend to push them for details and will post up the results here. All I will say at this point is that at least Pirelli have designed these tyres to work together, despite their apparent mismatch, and so that could explain why they feel happy to recommend this. I have my doubts as to any cars that come with the mixed setup from Pirelli as OEM, however Docwra has first-hand evidence that they do and unless I can prove otherwise I bow to his knowledge on that. That said, as far as I am concerned with my own experiences and research I am still very comfortable saying that putting mismatched tyres onto your car is something only a fool would do.

Not at all, although in an ideal world with limitless funds I'd love to! It's more about common sense than any strict rule really, personally I don't change my tyres until I have to, but I will be aware of the conditions I'm driving in and how I'm driving to take wear into account. I usually replace them when down to about 3mm on the PS2s, and then kill the old ones off on track.

They won't be in a better position because they do not know how the car is going to react under any given circumstances. You've introduced a new set of variables that you don't need, and that leads to a certain amount of unpredictability. Look, without trying to sound too harsh I've given as much info as I can on this subject without going into ridiculous amounts of detail, and there's enough on here to convince you that running mismatched tyres is a Very Bad Idea Indeed. I'm more than happy to continue with a sensible debate about this if people want to ask specific questions, but I refused to be drawn into an argument with people saying that X combination is great or Y combination part-worns will be better: If you honestly believe that, then that's fine, but please don't come to me for any sympathy when you have an accident and blame everything apart from the nut behind the wheel who makes the tyre choices. This isn't aimed specifically at you Docwra, it's more of a general "Let's leave it there before it gets nasty/boring". I want this to be an informative Sticky that people can reference or ask specific questions on rather than a huge 20 page epic involving all the people on mixed tyres. That said, if anyone would like to PM me with anything I'll be happy to correspond with you that way, and then we don't have to bore others with circular arguments.

Heh, is that a good thing or not?! Never a truer word spoken in jest mate. At least this time I'm going into it with my eyes slightly more open, and more importantly I'm sure that the right people are in place here already to help ease me in. I'll kill anyone who misquotes me on that last line

Apparently my interwebs connection at home isn't good enough for the Apple servers, and it keeps cutting the OS4 download off after about 60MB

On paper England and Germany are pretty well matched, and all we can hope for is that both teams rise to the occasion and give us something decent to watch.

Thinking about this a bit more, it has to be by design. Think of it like a very dodgy way to implement heel and toe changes: When doing one of those, you blip the throttle to match the revs for when you change gear, which helps on wear on both the clutch and the gearbox. Okay, so the car doesn't blip the engine nearly enough for it to be used as that, but I wouldn't bet against it being there for some kind of wear protection. I could be wrong, and it might be emissions based as that's the only two reasons I can think of for a manufacturer deliberately programming something like that in, but I struggle to to work out how it could help emissions.

I'll take it please fella

Terrible news

It'll fit, it just might not fit in the space the space saver has vacated

I rarely keep a car past the two year mark, and yet whilst I will admit to doing a fair amount of window shopping (well, and a bit more in some cases) in recent months regarding Exiges, 911s and Corvettes I still struggle to justify the 'upgrade' as the Zed just ticks so many boxes for me and for such a fair price in all aspects. I really can't see myself moving on any time soon, there's still so much more to get out of the car and also I'm sure there's more for me to learn as a driver that the Zed can teach me.

I've tried it before, and despite the very dodgy science surrounding it (you really need 100% nitrogen in there to make the big differences, which unless they suck all the normal air out using a vacuum won't happen) I was happy with the results. The theory is that nitrogen holds less water vapour than air, so when you get the tyres hot on a run you don't get such varying tyre pressures: They should sit more or less where they were when cold. Because of the installation method I've already mentioned I'm not convinced that that holds very true, however I did notice that the tyres held their pressure long term far better with nitrogen than with normal air. For what it costs (and it should be no more than about £1 per corner) it's worth trying and seeing what you think. FWIW I don't bother any more, but I'm glad I made the effort to try it and find out.

That just looks so angry. I love the square handbrake with the push button, I'd never noticed that before.

Count me in for this too! Would love to be on the stand if possible but no worries if not, also happy to pay for my entry ticket so I don't take anyone else's place for the freebies I'll meet you all at the pub and go from there.

I'd better start making some then! Joking aside, it's an honour to have been asked to join the team and I'm looking forward in equal measure to both helping out more around here and learning more about the place. It's a genuinely great place to be and I hope to carry on with the high standards already set here.

The clutch itself no, there won't be any difference as it's the friction plate that gets worn rather than anything you'd feel pressure on. The only clue you'll get is slipping when you apply power. The clutch pedal itself is adjustable I believe, however different pedal heights between cars and the biting point could be down to worn master or slave cylinders, worn clutch lines or old clutch fluid. Have a read of this page which should give you a better idea of how the whole shebang works (it was a godsend to me when I had my recent clutch troubles!). Apologies if that's teaching you how to suck eggs though.

But they're all part of the same car... The setup you've got will be very prone to oversteer, and as such is the worst possible combination out of the three options. For the most part a good tyre is a good tyre, but weight distribution does play a part as well. Of course you should always drive to the conditions, but it's the unpredictable nature and a billion and one variables that also affect your car in ways you can't prepare for. If someone pulls out on you and you have to swerve to avoid them, a driver on matching tyres will be better placed to avoid the danger than you will on mixed tyres. In an emergency situation, or where you catch a bit of oil on one side of the car, you're going to find out just why mismatched tyres are a bad idea. Like I said in the main post, those who think it's fine have just been very lucky so far. If you can't argue with the logic, then you know you're in the wrong on an 050/VUS split.

Sounds like most men in most offices around the country

Exactly why I got a spare set of Rays, really can't beat them for trackday wheels I'm currently using the R888 in GG (med) compound and used to run the A048s on the VXR in LTS spec which is somewhere between M and MH IIRC. I've never run the two on the same car and realistically never will seeing as how Yoko don't make the sizes I want in the 048, but I can go on what I do know which is that I'd pick the R888s any day. I've yet to track the R888s (next month at the 'Ring will see them get their outing) but on the road there is 95% of the grip of the 48s but with 105% of the feel: They're slightly more progressive than the Yokos which tend to give less warning when they're about to go. I think the Toyos also have better wet traction than the 048s, but that's like saying I'd rather bang Nadine from Girls Aloud than Kelly Brook: Technically true, but you'd be really happy riding on either