Adam@Z1auto.com

Dan - I'd suggest the Cobb Cobb (made by Hotchkis for Cobb, but they were based on the revised shocks, whereas Cobb were based on the original '03 units) - Spring rates are 436 lbs front, 535 lbs rear; reduce the ride height by 3/4" Front and 15/16" Rear we've done these on several roadsters and they worked out great on OEM shocks

I've got an aluminum overflow and power steering setup that I had fabbed last that I would part with I had them made to match by version 1 ARC catch can (under strut brace) but that has since been removed since I went with the ITB's. I am now looking at something else, so have no need for these. They originally cost me just under $500 to have fabbed. Happy to entertain offers

they are genuine Nissan Japan accessories, but only fit 2002-2005 models. They were not made for 2006 + cars

The correct choice depends mainly on what year your car is, and how low you want to go with it. Nissan changed shock valving specs in mid 2004 production, so it plays a big role. Keep in mind Tein also offers 2 springs for the Z (STech and HTech - rates and drop level varies), as does Eibach (Pro Kit and Sportline). What's more, overall 'comfort' of a spring has as much to do with the tires you are using as it does to the spring rate you have. Both have to play well together. If you post some more details about your current or intended setup, it will be easier to make a proper recommendation

from your lips to gods ears Chris, I hope it all goes well! What I like best about it is that it's completely civil till you put your foot into - it drives no differently from a standard car, though it is a bit obvious that it has cams when idling. Very linear torque band - it hits peak torque at 4700 rpm and stays pretty flat to redline, tapering down a bit steeper at 8k and up. Current redline is 8400, as the car basically pulls to 8k as it sits now. Hopefully the new itb's help it breathe up top a bit better. I think the new gears are really going to compliment it well also, as it's a pretty dramatic change from my current 3.9

Chris - check out our blog (link in sig) we have some very prelim. pics of the test piece we were working with. I'm not even going to hazard a guess as to hp figures - call it superstition.

Nothing much new to report just yet. We are making progress on it, but work takes up so much time, it doesn't leave much time for play lol. We took the car apart over the winter to install the ITB setup. Sold off the UTEC and some other bits, and converted to a Haltech. Still finalizing some details on the ITB manifold, but I look forward to many many thousands of miles of smiles this summer!

320 whp and counting on mine - pump gas, still a 3.5 liter, and 11.3:1 compression, so it's purely a street car. I don't know the drivetrain loss on these cars, but figure in the Our Superleggera project car just left for the body shop today (was just picked up about 30 minutes ago). Stay tuned on our blog for progress pictures (that car has a Greddy twin turbo kit) Coming soon for me - Individual Throttle Bodies - hopefully they net some good gains! Switched to the Haltech as well. From there, install the new rear (4.3 gears with a Quaife), and some new headers and then hopefully she will be where I want

Good luck, should work out well The success/failure/reliability of any mod and any tune, is in the hands of the person performing the work. If you're using a tuner familiar and comfortable with the Unichip then it should give a great result. If on the other hand, it's their first go around, no matter if you have a $10k Pectel in the car, it's not going to perform to it's full capabilities.

http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=1149 ACT Pricing ^ http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=2896 Exedy Sport Clutch ^

being a 6 puck clutch , it will be grabbier than a clutch with a full radius disk. The upside is the 6 puck holds considerably more torque than a full radius unit

K1 is absolutely a copy - or simply the same exhaust that's been floated around as "Top Speed", and many other names for several years.

every single lightweight flywheel on the market makes noise - there is no way at all around it. The reason is because the stock unit is a dual mass type, as fitted most typically to trucks (lorries). There is no one making an aftermarket dual mass as its insanely expensive to do. The NISMO unit is a single mass, chromoly. Heaviest of the aftermarket ones out there. The ACT's are without question the best value out there - 2 different weights (street/pro) billet chromoly, and very affordable. These can be resurfaced just like any brake disk as well, which is nice down the road. http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=1973 The 2 piece units like JWT/Fidanza, and others work just fine - they tend to transmit a bit more noise as they are aluminum with a steel friction ring. Aluminum being not quite as dense as steel makes it resonate a bit more. When these flywheels wear, you must unbolt the friction ring, and replace it with a new one. This is the part I personally don't like, as I have seen these bolts come out prematurely and as a result, take out a full transmission (one time at Lime Rock, I saw a CRX hit the wall as a result...not good!) In the right hands they certainly work fine, it's just a bit more risky vs a one piece unit

revups are 35th anniversary - same engine HR are totally different (dual intakes)

all 2005 350Z with Brembo's and manual transmission have variable exhaust cams as well as intake cams. All 2006 + models (auto and manual) have it as well In real terms, a flatter torque curve and the ability to run a more aggressive set of cams (if properly tuned for)

JWT and Fidanza are the same part (flywheel) I am personally partial to the 1 piece flywheels, since they can be resurfaced (no need to unbolt/retorque the friction plate) and they tend to be a bit quieter. We usually do the ACT ones and have supplied a bunch to members here.

Not sure about location wise as I'm not that familiar with the UK, but I know Simon Norris at Norris Designs has VQ experience (we've sent him parts for these engines before) As far as which mods to buy, etc, I am sure between Alex and myself and a few others here, can easily help guide you down the path that suits your needs and budget

Ian - it's not installed correctly the front L bracket gets secured on the inside of the cover, not the outside to remove the studs, take a 10mm nut, tighten it down on the stud, then remove it..it should unthread the stud

didn't seem to be any interest unfortunately - if there is, let us know, and we can get it done asap

if you want to organize it, let us know, and I'll make it happen I'd like to keep it to a maximum of 10 people - I think coordinating it for more than that would be very time consuming with differing schedules, etc.

only place to now get them is via Japan - we have brought in a few sets recently to customers in south america. Not cheap in the least, but a quality wheel that looks great. Expect to pay about $4000US all in for a full set after shipping

stay away, they are rubbish at the end of the day (that's garbage for all you Brits Sure the price is cheap, but the company has no meaningful warranty program, and why support a blatant copy of something? If Kia made a car that looked just like a 350Z, but wasn't quite one, would you buy it? It's not like they made any improvements to the system they copied. Furthermore, time is money - why bother going through the hassle of buying it, waiting for it, fitting it, then having to get it repaired, or replaced down the road for something proper - just to save a few dollars? In the long term, is that ultimately worth it? The first is not a copy of the K1 - the K1 is a copy in and of itself lol This is the problem with the industry as a whole - copies beget copies beget copies, to the point where the originators don't even have the time, resources or interest in developing new products, for fear of falling victim to it. Since the firms doing the copies have neither the skill, nor interest, in developing a truly unique product on their own what are we left with?

can easily supply the headlights they aren't cheap though

in stock

that kit is a fake too - and a pitty that they are allowed to use pictures of the genuine kit to sell a fake copy. I'm sure Amuse will be interested to hear about their images being used this way - so I reported it to them as well as to my ebay rep. in person, the kit looks absolutely fanstastic (genuine) - we have a car with one here (sorry, no pics yet till the car is 100% completed).