Adam@Z1auto.com

we stopped dealing with Rotora several years ago....a bit of a clueless firm

thanks everyone! sunset, you have pm

you're not missing anything, it's woefully outdated and contains alot of inaccuracies

will surely cause glare though in the cabin as it reflects off the window

absolutely! payment details are posted and contact sunset with any questions

the MCR will end up in the area of 2 x (give or take) the cost of the Saclam; ARC is even more even for the "lowest" configuration they offer

easiest thing to do is send him a PM and give him a day or 2 to reply. Last day he was online was the 29th. So, can either order an extra and offer it to him when it arrives, or if he wants one, he can order it on his own when he's ready

The MCR is significantly more money than the Saclam system, and the ARC, even more than MCR.

shipping is in the ~$300-$350 range for the exhaust to your door. Special order from Japan

as Stew mentioned, if its a 296bhp engine, you're best bet is to also change the lower collector as well if it's a 278bhp model, then the spacer alone works great, without needing to change anything else there will not be any air leaks so long as you follow the torquing procedure in the instructions The kits we offer (AAM) come with all gaskets and required hardware, and are $300US shipped to your door

install is very straight forward - takes under an hour to do with normal hand tools. Shifter surround simply unsnaps, shifter support plate is removed from the car from the top (4 10m bolts for the rubber insulator mounting plate, and 3 10 mm bolts for the shifter assembly itself. Linkage is unbolted from underneath the car, new shifter assembly bolts into place, and with the right one (NISMO or Stillen are far and away the 2 best units), very significant, meaningful difference.

1. what year is the car ? A revup engine would really need the lower collector from the non revup, as well as the spacer to have it make a significant difference. The spacer alone on the revup engines still works, but not as effectively as the spacer coupled with the collector. Torque and hp increase as a result 2. any proper spacer will include the means necessary for strut brace clearance (AAM does for example). Some spacers are simply too large, and as such, the factory strut brace cannot be retained 3. there is no silicone involved in installation

I highly doubt it would sound any different

no, that would be the same as a test pipe, sans resonator

thanks guys!!!

Ichiba does not make high flow cats..they are resonated test pipes

Hi all - need some assistance from our friends across the pond. One of our friends/customer cars was selected in the Castrol Top Syntec Top Car Challenge, and it's voting time! EuroTuner went from 200 votes to 2200 overnight, so we want to show them all who's boss Chestons car is the blue Z we posted here several months ago. He's also an author on our blog, a long standing member in the Z community, and one of the nicest guys I've ever had the pleasure of dealing with in all my years in the industry! Here is a link to vote on Cheston's car - Select SuperStreet http://www.syntectopcarchallenge.com/vote/index.html Vote as many times as you can stand...tell a friend as well! http://www.syntectopcarchallenge.com/su ... index.html Thanks!!!

can we please stop with this 'the ecu cancels the mods" thing - it is simply not the case until the car starts running dangerously lean. Well planned and executed bolt ons will show gains, consistently, and reliably

OEM is 66.1mm

lots of options, have a look on our site and let us know if anything interests you www.z1auto.com That budget won't quite get you a set of Volks with tires, but it would be fairly close (depends on spec, etc), just to give you an idea Brands from our site to look at which would easily return change from that budget - Enkei, AME, TSW, 5Zigen, Vossen, PIAA, Privat, some SSR's, some WEDS, some Work We have a set of 19x9.5, 19x11 Work Meister S1 3 piece wheels on sale at the moment that are slightly used - check the traders section for pictures and details

what is your budget?

I have a set of genuine ones for sale from my car - fits 2003-2005 models pm me your address, I'll let you know cost

we have it in stock

see if you can find the actual part # and I can easily supply it - those are unfortunately not Nissan #'s

If I had to choose one, the final drive would be it - they are more expensive, but far more noticeable The pullies help a bit, but the stock unit is not all 'that' heavy - a bit under 7 lbs for the DE's/Revups, and a bit under 5 lbs for the HR. Most of the aftermarket units are aluminum so a fair bit lighter. The racing units (ATI, which I use on my car, and Fluidyne, actually weigh a bit more than stock. Not sure on the Fluidyne, but the ATI is substantially more underdriven vs stock, but the alternator rib is then overdriven to compensate. All in all the underdriving is best suited for a very high reving engine - a stock engine would not benefit from it. I've got a full stereo system in my car with a very power hungry McIntosh amp, and stock alternator (original unit from 2003) has not given me an ounce of issue.