Adam@Z1auto.com

anyone familiar with standalone engine management (AEM, Motech, Haltech, etc) and who can read instructions could easily tune a utec. In fact, most of our UTEC users for a variety of cars (Evo, Subaru, Z) self tune with simply the addition of the wideband unit

let us know the part #'s your after guys

we have a very nice aluminum one coming out soon, stay tuned

you used old pads on new rotors...so now you need to bed the pads in properly From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot. If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

thank you, and enjoy!

we're a direct JP dealer - pm me your address, I can let you know costs tomorrow skirts are full replacements

every car is different however, depends on how its mapped to begin with

the direction the outer slots face is inconsequential - you have to look at the inner veins

I can't fathom how you would need injectors and/or a pump - my own car got well past 300 whp on 100% stock parts. Now with my ITB's, I swapped to 370cc injectors, not out of necessity, but because things were apart and we figured it was an easy thing to do (and I had a spare set). I still left the pump alone low end gains on a Z are non existant short of increasing compression by alot, increasing displacement, or forced induction. Your graph shows a very substantial gain given your mods. I wouldn't really focus on the final # you get, as mentioned, it's all relative to that dyno. If you want to know how your car stacks up, get a stock Z on there for comparison.

pm us your address, I can let you know pricing tomorrow when we're back in for soundclips, you would need to search youtube - I don't have any, sorry

down the middle was where all mine happened my local customer with the cracked V5 happened along the outer edge

looks nice

there ya go

lololololol - damn, I was trying to be subtle hopefully it works out problem free for you guys - the plastic one works in that it deals effectively with the design flaw of the stock one, it just isn't up to snuff as far as longevity IMHO

just fit the spacer, you'll be much happier (and costs less) if you don't find any locally, we have the Altered Atmosphere ones in stock (fits stock strut brace)

Your right. There was a revision recently which fixed various vital flaws with the original design. Infact the previous product was so bad that kinetix sent out the newly revised design to those with the previous revision. there have been 5 revisions of these since they came out back in ~2005 - they still can't get it right though. I just had a local customer, who I told many times not to bother buying it, remove his "V5" because it cracked. I had a V1 - cracked. V2 - cracked, they warrantied it for me, and I literally gave it to a friend of mine for his Z. It cracked 3 weeks later. Put my stock one back on with a very small spacer, great performance, no chance of cracks, and much stealthier overall. Win/Win/Win Don't even start on the SSV - it's best used as a paperweight, door stop, or anchor for a canoe

$1559 shipped to you, we have them in stock for the NISMO body kit, some pieces are discontinued now here in the US (like the sideskirts)

what year is your car?

if you're after a nice sound, not raspy, with the NISMO, I'd highly suggest the Ultimate Racing ceramic cats we offer. They outflow the stock cats, but they don't give the nasty rasp that test pipes or metal cats can. They give the NISMO a nice, deep tone The combo of these + NISMO has never disappointed me

we offer the full TSW range if you need

if it's genuine you're after, we can help - t's not cheap, but it's fantastic. I stopped offering the replicas very early on, quality was too inconsistant IMHO

It won't really matter all test pipes make that noise, resonated or not, especially with the NISMO exhaust. The upside are the lower weight and more peak power/torque and low cost. Downside is the noise/smell

11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 r pm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM. Water/coolant/liquid doesn't make a clicking noise...they merely are saying you may (and will actually, I've done this about 20 times on my own car alone) hear the sound of liquid moving, as the coolant fills the system, particularly the heater core and the larger diameter coolant line that runs around the back of the engine. In hearing this, it is telling you the system is not filled, and as such, you must fill/rebleed until it is filled. But it shouldn't have anything to do with any clicking sounds. Good luck

4. Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level. Pour engine coolant through coolant filler neck slowly of less than 2 (2-1/8US qt,1-3/4 lmp qt) a minute to allow air in system to escape. Use genuine Nissan Anti-freeze Coolant or equivalent mixed with water (distilled or demineralized. Refer to MA- 11, "RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS". When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose, install air relief plug with new O-ring. 5. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator cap installed. 6. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle speed. Repeat two or three times. 7. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F). Cool down using a fan to reduce the time. If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant. 8. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant. 9. Repeat steps 4 through 7 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer drops. 10. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running. 11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 r pm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM. Sound may be noticeable at heater unit. 12. Repeat step 11 three times. 13. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 4 through 7 until engine coolant level no longer drops. Clean excess engine coolant from engine. FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM 1. Fill radiator with water until water spills from the air relief hole, then close air relief plug. Fill radiator and reservoir tank with water and reinstall radiator cap. 2. Run engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 3. Rev engine two or three times under no-load. 4. Stop engine and wait until it cools down. 5. Drain the water from the system. Refer to CO-8, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" . 6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until clear water begins to drain from the radiator. where does it say anything about clicking noises related to, in, or around the cluster, or cluster area?

yes that is the delivered price for duties you would have to consult your local post office, they are delivered via EMS service