Zzzz...

No option but to change or live with it... but i am not ready to live with it... I'll keep them for example for a track day ... or something like this ... after all they are a easy to replace... I know the OEM should be tested for this... but i am not sure of the red stuff... if some one with ferodos, had this squeal and then moved to redstuff and the problem dissappeared, I will take your word and go with them... which no doubt will be cheaper than OEM...

There is no safety issue as such.... but it is not advisable to mix and match tyres... that's the first advice... but again it is not ilegal or unsafe... only that it can have an effect in the handling of the car. On the RR axle you are changing the rolling diameter of the wheels Original 235/50/17 = 2095 mm circumference New proposed 245/45/17 = 2049mm circumference a difference of 2.2% on wheel tyre combination... So when your speedo reads 70mph, you're actually travelling at 71.55mph not a big difference ... so you can get away with it... So the profile alone will not have a safety effect, i think the biggest concern you should consider is the mixing of brands of tyres and the possible effect on handling of the car...

That german ZED in black... am i right in thinking that was a custom paint job in MATT black...(not just photography effects) looks uber- really nice pics...and much better weather than i had on my trip... i have the ring bug now... i want to go again and again ... and again...

sounds very general this question. Can you elaborate what information you are after and why? e.g Do you want to know why the profiles are 45 on OEM but look different? Do you want to go smaller profile on the RR to match the front look? Do you plan on going 19" on the RR and 18 on the FR? Are you worried about the effect on rolling diameter etc...? This would help focus the answers you are after...

Ok here it is I HATE ferodo DS2500 As good and excellent as they are... and they proved themselves in the Nurburgring, on daily usage I cannot stop them from squealing... The condition where they squeal is as follows. After the discs/brakes have warmed up. At low speed (just before coming to a halt) and with very light brake pedal application (barely touching the disk). The Squeal is TERRIBLE... Just when you are cruising around town and on FULL ASW, you come to a gentle stop at the traffic light and it happens...most embarrasing... The only way round it is to come to a stop with greater pedal pressure, but because the grip of these pads, you end up getting the passenger munching dash panel every time... Fed up ... I have already Copper greased them Copper greased the leading and trailing edges of the backing plate also, I have tried with Shim and with out shim... and I have even chamfered leading and trailing edges... with no solution... I am going to go back to OEM...because while they are unbelievable in terms of braking performance , every day use is driving me NUTS... I checked in Spain Z forum and they suffere it also... and because of higher ambient temperatures they suffer it more frequently, the word FERODO is a no-go area on that forum...purely because of this ... Sorry RANT over ... just had to vent my frustration... Anyone else suffer from this...???? [/img]

http://www.club350zspain.net/phpBB2/vie ... highlight= however there are some very neat details that could make a current ZED very cool door handles for example... and the interior is a bit extreme but still an awfull lot of work has gone into it... and what is cool for someone is for another... that's life... the 850bhp allegedly comes from a full custom built Gredy engine from Japan... anyway have a look... The Link sends you to a spanish z forum... otherwise here are some pics...

a comparative on the short wheel base ... not so sure about this ... make it shorter... and: -Weight reduces... but the driftability increases... not sure i am convinced it would be the right way to go... keep the wheelbase but lighter materials would be better... and cooler

Yes but you have to remember that they are first and foremost Nissan Motorsports, and from this they derive the parts and accessory marketing and this marketing is through franchised dealers, so it is no suprise to me that they weren't so helpfull for a public sale. And also remember that NISMO should not be selling parts for your European car, because that would mean they authorise them for european markets etc... and could be held responsible for any legal, homologation or other issues. NISMO has not tested and developed exhausts, dampers, brakes, clutches etc... to meet european requirements, and while they will probably be OK, and have no problems, they have not got whatever homologations , CE marking or whatever it is, they need to sell and guarantee the parts. So they cannot really sell you anything for your car, if it is EURO SPEC knowingly so. I think this is the reason they were not so helpfull.

I'm off to get a new pair of glasses, budger if I can see the joins Thanks Mike, can anyone else on here can tell us what the lingo is saying about the car. The last 12 characters say (metaritopurodosuta) which equates to "Metallic-Top Roadster" that's about as far as my GCSE jap gets to...

TOOO much coffee... stop it.....

I haven't got it on me, but i am pretty sure the owners manual clearly states where the VIN plates, engine numbers, etc can be found... front pages of the booklet, enev if it is japanese you could make it up from the piccies... Also it is my understanding that is should be stamped in a visible place (homologation requirement) on the main body of the engine... however the term "visible place" is sometimes "loosely applied" ...

If it is not the locking wheel nut , it will just be the socket to remove the nuts? (They come with the car jack and sometimes acts as a jack handle to lift the car? ) If it is only this, then you just need the right socket (a deep/long one is best) and a decent leverage wrench/spanner jobby and you can get the wheelnuts off... or maybe i got the wrong end of the stick ...

Don't worry about my drive south, it will take as long as it takes and i don't care about that..., I want to make the most of this drive, as it may be one of the last ones with this car, before it goes on sale... Aftef this I need to sort out some personal stuff and hopefully after this I can get back into a nice 07MY before the end of the year...

MARTIN max +1 defo Digsy +1 BigPhil Andy C (possible) xStric9x Beavis (possible) Kevgreen 16? Jacko (possible) Wilky Chesterfied Zzzz... +1 seanjoy' red or zed davej Bulldog

some pics pulled from jap mags... 1st set looks pretty cool. enjoy... or it could look like this... what you guys think....

Sorry maybe it is just me , but i could do with a reminder of the whole activity Date: 16th Sept 2007 Meeting Time: Meeting Location: Address/Postcode Pre Meet, "gathering"? Date : 15th Sept 2007 Meeting Time: Evening ? Meeting Location: Hopefully some nice pub with a beer tap, or two... Also is there a route planned?... I see mention of several mt. passes, etc...but no route, i think... just to get an idea of times etc...as I will be travelling back to Bedford on Sunday Night... I am ready to start booking rooms for Friday/Saturday.

can i recommend: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ryrn_31342 i think this option will be cheaper than the Nissan option...so long as you can sacrifice a cup holder ( it has one I hope... ) easy to empty etc...

my gran had one of those but bigger.. use to make wicked mince meat and sausages.... Nice to see some posts from you Val... but don't keep it too cryptic... let us know whacha'doin'...

can anyone remind me the cost of getting a good full respray job and timescale to complete? I assume this "good" respray will cover the door/ tailgate apertures, hinge area, etc...basically any secondary visible areas of the car ( I mean areas where normally you don't see, but on detail inspection you could pick up the car has been re-sprayed , and I don't mean the engine bay I guess this will be an extra job)

That RS4 is shocking how it picks up speed... I suddenly feel a slight warmth towards germanic wagons.... The drivers however ... N U T T E R S !!!!

I am not sure on your car, but i assume the glass already has already a level of tint , same as the ZED ( perhaps in the region of 15%), now the tinting companies I have spoken to in Bedford area, only go as low as 35% tint film, which if you add it to the 20% already puts you in the illegal side ... you then need to judge the risk of being pulled over ( and on most cases it is very very low, unless you ride around in LIMO type tint...) From a previous thread on tinting on the legalities... http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/reposit ... 202005.pdf The legal position is that the front side windows on all cars must allow 70% of light to pass through them. That figure also applies to the windscreens of cars first used before April 1985; any car first used from then onwards has to let 75% of light through the windscreen. The level of light transmission is measured by metering units which cost up to £500 each. Supplying them for roadside checks across the country has cost VOSA £13,000. Another way of doing it would have been to include the measurement as part of the MOT test, but since there are 18,000 MOT test centres in the UK the equipment budget would have rocketed to £90 million, and the extra time added to the test would have led to an increase in the fee - all this for a very small proportion of UK cars. If the meter registers figures better than those mentioned above during a roadside check, there is no problem. If between 45% and 65% of light gets through, the driver is advised to have the tinting removed, failure to do which might result in a prosecution and a fine of up to £2000. The whole thread can be found herewith pics at the end http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... ng&start=0

These should be standard regular check items specially if you cane the car: Ensure tyre pressures are ok on all tyres, even if you already checked them at the start of the trip , it takes less than 1 minute to go round the car... and if you have been round the ring you could have picked some debri, slow punctures etc... Ensure there are no cuts or serious damage marks on the treads, cuts on the sidewall etc. Ensure you have enough brake pads... (As a rule I was once told that a high speed (Over 90mph) emergency brake can remove between 0.5 to 1mm of brake pad thickness...and you only get around 10-15 mm on a new pad, if I remember...) Finally alway remember to look in the RR view mirror, there will ALWAYS be something quicker behind you, flashing you to move out of the way...

Tell him you will meet him in Rijecke in this cafe bar at 21:00, Karolina (Gat Karoline Rijecke . Tel. 051 330 909) and you will be wearing a white suit , panama hat, and you smoke big Cuban cigars and you will have two friends with you who normally dress in black... Tell him to call the number above and ask for "Mike Roch" (I got it from the easyjet website... apparently they fly there...)

you want unique? http://www.maxpower.co.uk/article.asp?asset=2550 go on....

If you can do it... do it I think it is the best colour for this car... get a siomple pearl and I think it will be enough to be honest... depends on the ASW level you seek...