Chris`I

Depends on the width of the wheel too. I'm no expert, but with the offset and spacer you want the overall offset to be about 20ish give or take a few mm and of course depending on your preference.

From what I can gather - ~25 on the front and ~20 on the rear EDIT: Or they maybe +30 all round. Found them on Z1auto and there seem to be different specs you can get for the LMGT4s

Lower the number the more it sticks out. IMO somewhere around 20-25 is quite conservative, 15-20 is pretty agressive and lower than 15 is mad and mean For reference my Rotas are +25 all round, but I think +20 all round would have been perfect in them

Do you have the service manual? There is a section in there that details the door locks, and might help you out, you need section BL-82. I cant post it from work as Photobucket doesnt work from here. PM me an email address and I can forward it on if you like? Or there is a download link around here somewhere but I forget it Admitedly it doesnt show you much, but going in blind, it does show you where the bits are

Far cheaper to get a pair of matching show plates made up with the Envy logo on That reminds me, will need some http://www.370z-uk.net ones made up for the summer

1/ martinmac if I have to walk there. 2/ SunGodRA - need to confirm, might be in Mexico then 3/ Muddy (sat) 4/ Scott 5/ ATTAK Z 6/ MadMarky 7/ Patman 8/ Greekman -if i dont forget about it until then lol 9/ Smudge (if life gets better and I get a job by then) 10/ Chris`I (TBC)

Welcome back Jay, good to see you are still on form

Not in any carbon I hope

I used a bulk pack of normal Damplifier to do the whole boot and rear cubby area. I also cut up some "kit mat" that you get from camping stores to sleep on and put that on top of the Damplifier. Its a closed cell foam so stops airbourne noise a bit

Yes as standard it can be very noisy. I overcame it by ripping out the interior and putting in some Second Skin over the wheel wells, made an amazing difference

Best assuming you dont do it yourself To be fair it was a machine vs a chap with a grit bucket vs a pressure washer and what can only be described as a broom! Hardly a good test. The detailer they had on was fairly good at pointing out swirls and other defects. I still stand by the fact that you do it yourself, get a pro to do it or leave it dirty til you can do it

Cool cool, will probably only be 1 night and somebody doesnt have any holidays left

Looks like I might be able to come to this, will confirm shortly. Whats the deal with accomodation?

Yeah the RaceLogic videobox setup looks sweet with all the data logging on it too, and they have a few additional sensors I think for Gs etc, but its mucho money. Shame its not HD for the cost either, but then I guess the idea of it is for analysis, not showing off on TV or for your mates

I assume you've approached RaceLogic? That would be the proper setup

Nice one Alex, do let others know what the problem is for reference

Yup, I got my usb dogcam from them too The benefit of the GoPro is its very compact in real life and gives exception quality for the cost. If you look at their proper HD cams and recorders you are looking at over £1k, whereas this is like £300

Get an obard cam will you? I'm dying to see you race that Z of yours! I head those GoPro HD Hero's are very good, and have a nice wideangle lense and rollbar mount

Good post Bennet. The only bit I would disagree with is the flywheel outlasting the clutch. Most reports I have had from several places is that the flywheel is normally pretty shot by the time the clutch needs changing and if not, it wont outlast another clutch so best to do it in one go. When I had mine done, the flywheel was in a worse condition than the clutch but then I was at 70k when I got it done. I guess the main problem is while the flywheel might be ok at clutch change, will it outlast another? As double the labour isnt worth it.

Wow carbon doors - tres cool but very expensive I'm guessing? Certainly looks like a proper racer now. Take some power and weight saving to beat a GTiR though, those things are 4WD tin cans

+1 - not so bad it will fall apart and break, but not on Audi levels of tactility and feel. Rattles are quite common but easily sorted with foam tape or silicone grease spray

Mark: Please keep the list and details up to date on here if you are advertising it on here, its a bit of common courtesy 1: Greg Warnes 2: Chilli's - plus 2 kids 3: John & Cindy 4: Paul & Sally 5: Kev T & Gillian +1 6: Steve & Karen 7: Dominique & andymc 8: Martin & someone 9: Fuku Fuku 10: Crisis 11: sprint7 12: 350doc 13: ldn-j - +1 14: Buster - +1 15: Buster's Mate 16: Terry (he's only bringing a 370z Soft Top ) 17. Cavey + 1 18. theshrekster and Munky 19. Swanagedave+1 20. 3FIDDYZ + Andy - Kudos (POSSIBLY!!) 21. Stormgirl 22. Doogyrev plus 2 adults and 1 child 23. Darren B +1 24. Z girl +1 25: dcash 26. Bundus and Hayley 27: terryw +1 28: Westover Nissan 29: gazhull8474 (350z-uk)

Theres always hammerite, worked a treat on my rusting bonnet dampers Just get them sprayed up before you install it so there is no rust and they will be protected. £5 for a can from Halfrauds, job done, forget about it

Get them to confirm what they are made of and what coating they use. If its stainless steel you'll be ok. Could always get them powercoated in this country?

I think this should be stickied and everyone should have to watch it