Jack94

Surely that can't be right, terrible design if the OEM space saver doesn't clear the OEM brembo brake callipers on the front With LMGT4's (which were a factory option right?) then wouldn't the 275 width tyre from the rear cause rubbing on the front?

Not exactly an answer to your question but I have Torqen HFCs with my gemini and they mate up perfectly.

If you remove the RHF wheel and arch liner you'll be able to see whether the tank, pumps and wiring are there, rather than guessing what you need. Trace the pipes from the wipers to see where they end.

Going from your photos it looks like the wipers are oem (with the jets in) and there's a washer pipe going to them.

The standard jets are mounted in the wiper arms anyway? So should just be a case of getting all the parts together as long as the wiring for the pump is still there.

I think once you've polished up the backbox it'll stay shiny as long as you give it a wipe down during every wash, that's what I do and the ones on my 3 year invidia gemini still look new. The tip is never going to stay clean for long, especially if you're running HFCs or decats. I normally coat mine with FK1000P, not sure if it keeps them clean for any longer but it does make the grime dead quick and easy to remove.

Brand new LMGT4's and N1 kit Do you by any chance also have any unicorn horns for sale?

1. Zmanalex 2. Stu x2 3. harrison140 4. Kev T 5. Andy james 6. Nismoandy ×2 7. MBS 8. StormtrooperZ 9. Azurez33 10. Da.murf 11. ShortPaul x2 12. Jack94

I have the same Nismo bodykit and changed mine a few years ago, it's dead easy. I didn't remove the wheel just put the steering on full lock and removed a few of the arch liner clips (which all came out in one piece thankfully), then you can squeeze your hand up there. I'm pretty sure it's the bulb I've circled that's the sidelight. I went with Philips LEDs mainly because I wanted a white light that better matched the OEM xenons.

I thought our zeds have an 80 litre tank? But yeah I think the gauge on most cars reads a little low, probably to make it harder for people to run out of fuel

Considering the fuel cap and owners manual both state that the car needs to be run on minimum 98 RON fuel and all super unleaded is E5, there's no question really...

Have you asked @ZMANALEX?

Why not just refurb your oem motors? They usually only fail due to carbon build up which is extremely simple to fix, and it's not difficult to remove the fan shroud. I did this a few years ago and they've been absolutely fine ever since.

Are DI filters really that good? If so I might have to give one a try..

I have the mini hand-held version which I mainly use just for the wheels and any other small areas I can't get a drying cloth into. It's very powerful for the size of it!

Definitely sounds like a misfire, in which case the cat is probably getting red hot because the unburnt fuel is getting into it. As you've said, my first point of call would be to check the coils/plugs. If the CEL comes back then get a code reader on it.

Check the front arches too, the wings are prone to rust, but that's much easier to sort because you can simply bolt a new panel on. It looks like a lot of cars weak points (cooling fan motors, clutch slave cylinder, W brace, kidney brackets, boot struts) have already been addressed so that's good. Also the MPSS tyres are a nice bonus and the facelift headlights are an expensive upgrade. The original DE engine is the most bulletproof of the 3 variants really (it doesn't suffer from high oil consumption like some Rev-up's do or oil gallery gasket failure that all HR's eventually do).

Exactly my thoughts when I was looking to replace mine too. I didn't really want to spend 1k+ on an exhaust but I couldn't be arsed with something that didn't fit well or would need replacing again after a few years. I went with the invidia gemini and torqen high flow cats in the end. Perfect fit, great sound, and brilliant long lasting quality

Looks like a well cared for and reasonably priced example to me. As Willsy has said, sorting out the rust won't be cheap but sadly I think it's getting harder and harder to find a perfectly rust-free example these days and even then you'll pay a massive premium for one that's been stored inside and only ever seen summer months.

Fair enough. Sadly cheap and premium rarely go together

Double post

Seen this? https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/127944-toyosports-stainless-steel-cat-back-exhaust-system-for-sale/

Welcome to the forum. I'd be asking what brand/type exhaust he had fitted, same for the clutch, and whether the flywheel was done at the same time. What other issues has he mentioned? You're right the window issue is fairly common and is usually fixed by simply replacing the motor, which isn't a particularly expensive or difficult job. I'd also ask what other modifications the car has, from them photos I can see it's got tinted rear windows and headlights from a facelift car. Other than that the main thing to look out for is rust because they're getting old now. If you do a viewing try and have a good look around the arches and underneath if you can. Have you got a link to the ad?

Looks tidy enough, not immaculate but tidy. Like Ekona says, until the gearbox is in pieces you can't know for sure what the problem is so budget for worst case scenario. There's a few questions I'd want answering before viewing such as- Has it been remapped and had the post cat O2 sensors turned off since fitting the HFCs? (Otherwise you might get an intermittent EML) Is there any paperwork to show it actually has been serviced "privately" since 2019? Also that windscreen chip looks too big to be repaired to me, so I'd also budget whatever your insurance windscreen excess is to get the whole thing replaced. Other than that it looks like an honest and well priced advert.