Aashenfox

Sure, but do you think anyone will buy them? I know they're fairly easy to fit to an fn2 civic on which I suppose they'd be an upgrade. By the way, no change to stopping distance that I'm aware of (assuming same disc and pad material, that both sets start at ambient temp and don't overheat during the test).

I have a US base model import, currently has the standard non-brembo brakes on it. I've already bought the brembo calipers and will be fitting them some time in the next couple of months. Do you guys think it's worth trying to sell the base model brakes on here or uk ebay? Think anyone would be interested? Funnily enough, the yanks say that the brembos don't offer anything on the road over the base brakes, and even on the track, they are still only a 'middle ground' between the stockers and a 'proper' BBK. Some even say they changed back to the stockers for cheaper consumables (discs and pads) and a grand in their hand for their old brembos. Indeed, the brakes seem more than adequate for the car, my car stops like a champ, I only bought the brembos to fill the wheels a bit. Thoughts?

This is just kind of a thinking out loud post, again, someone please feel free to correct me if I'm worrying about nothing, but I probably wouldn't drift on spacers, I'd be worried about the secondary studs popping out of the aluminium spacer under that lateral load, especially if you got onto a rumble strip while sideways. There are several rally fail vids on youtube, where you see the wheels literally falling off a car while it goes round a hairpin. These are are often spacer stud failures. Not the studs themselves usually, but a failure of the metal into which they have been inserted, so I read. The studs in the steel hub are no doubt held by the hub much, MUCH more sturdily than studs inserted into aluminium. P.S. I know that hub centric spacers will offset a lot of the load, even so...nissansilvia.net has varying opinions (their cars are lighter than ours as well though, right?). Consensus seems to be that cheap spacers are a definite no-no and even good ones will start cracking around the studs sooner or later after a good deal of drifting. docwra, tell me I'm worried for no reason, I'd like to know myself.

The reviews of that stuff are so good, I'm tempted to do it despite not having any issues lol

Coming from a BMW 335i, a car which needs this doing every two years if ragged, it's interesting to see these reactions. On the N54 twin turbo, coke builds up around the valvetrain like nobody's business. I'm not htat technical, but I gather its a side effect of direct injection and the turbos, basically, the valvetrain doesn't get 'washed' by fuel. This is something every 335i comes across at some point, and a service is offered by some BMW garages, and some independents called a 'walnut blast'. Basically, a bunch of walnut shells are blasted into the valve inlets, cleaning the valve system. Doing this when needed does restore several missing horses and increases efficiency.It's not an 'easy' job to do, but it is a DIY for someone with the right tools and the walnut shells and blasting kit can be bought from harbor freight in the US. So the process itself is extremely valuable, I'd venture to say 'for specific cars'. Being a new Zer, I have no idea whether this is one of those cars yet, I just thought I'd throw it out there as this discussion reminded me heavily of my days on e90post. Obviously its not quite the same thing, as it requires 'some' disassembly to do, it's not just magic liquid in your intake or whatever.

Oh man, that poor car. Wins prizes? Most ruined classic car ever maybe. I want to rescue it.

Bearing? Mine (04 350) needs both rear wheel bearings at the moment and up above 60mph they get pretty droney (sounds like someone using a power tool in a closed room, or like amplified road noise with a rumbling component). I'd look at the vid to compare, but vimeo is blocked from the corporate network. I'll try on my phone in a minute and let you know if I have any other bright ideas.

They're Work Meister 3P's. Rota D2 are one piece so it's obvious the difference Despite the fact that I did allow for the possibility (iI could have sworn I've seen screws on the Rotas ), I offer a further apology to the owner of what are no doubt, epic, wheels. As I said before, respect. I've got a arlon mariana blue wrap planned soon which those wheels would suit like a black eye on Boris Johnson.

One of the reasons I left the UK...Come to Greece! It's sunny and I pay 350 quid a year TPF&T (I'm nearly 40 with over 10 years no claims and the car is in a locked underground garage in a respectable suburb of Northern Athens). You don't want to make a claim here though, been through that once (theft), never again. Lost a LOT of money.

Beautiful wheels and excellent colour choice (but only for an aggressive fitment, would look weird on a stock height car, black would work better), I assume they are Rota D2? If so, then unfortunately, they weigh about a gazillion tons. Definitely only for looks, they are the single heaviest wheel Rota make I believe. If they are genuine Work Meisters, then respect! to the owner.

http://www.ebay.co.u...ol arm&_sacat=0 Just bought a second one myself from Jon @ Emperor (he's a breaker and a respected member of the forum, PM him! I can't remember his exact username, he's got a thread in the pro sellers section I think), or you'll probably be able to find one of his in the search link I pasted above. Good luck with search!

55 quid one seems too good to be true. Screen must be total shite, no? Someone buy one and let us know! P.S. I'm impressed by the OBD2 of the one in the OP. Handy.

I was in the exact same position, I bought my car with some no-name 19 inch deep concave wheels which weighed about 3 tons each. I went back to the Rays stock 18" wheels found on the Touring spec, they are very light forged wheels (one of the best stock wheels on any car) and can be picked up cheaply. The car already feels MUCH nippier. Sure, they aren't deep concave with a dollar bill dish, but for both daily driving AND any amount of track abuse, they are ideal, plus you won't be bothered too much if you ruin them. There are several sets available on ebay and on the forum, as of a few days ago, haven't checked lately.

OP, you win the Internet. This is totally me, DESPITE living in Greece where absolutely zero fks are given by anybody and everyone treats each other like female genitalia (i.e. try to fk you if they can), I still have a giant stick (probably British Oak) up my ass and am anal about being ultra-correct in public. Hey, at least I know myself. Jokes aside, this is one of the things that make us great, we respect. When you live in a foreign country for a long time, it becomes even more apparent.

So it was the morning of the 6th day, and God created Adam. In the morning Adam was very happy, he was enjoying the Garden of Eden, but by the afternoon, it was clear that he was starting to get bored. God looked down on Adam and thought to himself; Adam looks lonely. Ah, I know what to do... Hey Adam! Yes God? You look lonely and bored, but don't worry, I'm going to create a companion for you. OK said Adam, what will they be like? Well, we're going to call her 'woman'. She'll be loving, accepting of your faults, beautiful, graceful, loyal and wise. Wow, said Adam, she sounds great! Wait a minute...How much is this going to cost me? God thought for a minute then said "An arm and a leg!" WTF? Said Adam, you must be joking. What do I get for a rib?

I was going to say TCT. Reminds me of the classic S2000 tensioner sound albeit a little deeper.

I know This is mainly because I drifted at fairly high level for about 8 years and still know most of the main players in the UK/Euro scene, rear wheel weights have very little impact on a ything No doubt, but lighter IS better. Yeh I've read with interest other topics where you are discussing your drifting, I'm looking forward to taking a dip myself at some point.

no that's what I mean, if I had an S2000, a Mini JCW and a 335i, I can't see a scenario where i'd ever take the Mini over one of the other two. apart from possibly ease of parking, but then an S2000 isn't exactly big!Ah, I see what you mean...yeh, believe me the mini gives you something you want that the other two don't, it's the power to weight ratio and chuckable size, it might be tail happy for a fwd car, but it's more predictable than the S, naturally. I've owned all 3 cars recently (s2000 for three years, three years ago e92 335xi for 6 months prior to theft, then the mini and now the Z) they all bring a fantastic and very different experience to the table. I actually see the Z as a perfect combination of the S and the e92. If I could have kept the mini, I would have. The Up now serves my commuting needs on permanent loan from my mother who has now returned to England.

Yeh, what ekona said. I actually have a mate who has an Evo 9, an S2000 and a pre-05 JCW in his garage. He's a happy motorist. I've driven clio cups, civic type Rs, and many other hot hatches, and while many are faster, none are more visceral to drive than the mini, I owned a fairly modded non JCW with about 210hp for a year while I was between cars and they are VERY special to drive. Foot flat on the floor in 2nd has you hanging onto the wheel for dear life as the car hops skips and jumps everywhere, the steering is SUPER fast and the back end quite loose (another reason to get a pre 05), they are a proper riot to drive fast (almost dangerous). I can't stress it enough, even with the recognition they have, they are still underrated as a true drivers car, such perfect neutral balance and relatively light weight, I used to use lift off oversteer to rotate into my work's parking I got that confident with it by the end. Traded it in for the Z, miss it very much. Crap picture, I've just suddenly realised I have almost no pictures of that car, damn. This is an 02 with 100k miles on the clock when I bought it, it was still tight and totally bonkers. It cost me a great deal to be fair, as during the one year I had it, it needed both a steering pump and a supercharger. Imagine how much I liked it that I bothered to fix BOTH of those knowing I'd be selling it shortly after. Everything you've heard about them being expensive to run and maintain is true. It's something about the character of the car, it's not the best at anything, it's just immensely fun to drive.

I truly appreciate the majority of your posts, we are kindred petrolheads (and trekkers)... put a Mini Cooper S JCW (pre 05 with supercharger) in as well and it's the perfect 3 car garage.

Thanks for reporting, good to have the info on both sides.

Not unless youve got 55 lb/ft, arguably you dont want to be breaking traction either. The correct answer is the cheapest rims you can find that will fit on your car - sadly standard 200SX rims are a bit small at 16 inch, but standard anything else will do the job handsomely, there are usually some cheapo 17/18's for sale on www.driftworks.com/forum You could hire rims from the tyre guys but Id recommend getting some yourself, they are pretty handy to have around generally Thanks for putting the OP straight, lighter is always better though. Since they say (anecdotally) that a kilo of rotating unsprung weight is worth 10kg above the springs, I'd think it would be significant even with drifting, still, you're right a few kilos isn't going to make a difference to whether or not a 3.5 can break traction, that was kind of a silly assertion on my part, despite being accurate, I'm sure the difference would be less than negligible, thanks for pointing it out.

That is a high quote, but who cares if its under warranty? If they won't honour it, then ebay is your friend. I just picked up a stock original exedy organic disc, pressure plate and bearing AND a lightweight flywheel all done for 367 squids. All brand new. I hope the flywheel is ok for 132 quid, looks just like all the others so I don't see why it wouldn't be.

Stock Rays. Because of the weight and cheap cost of replacement. To break traction, every kilo off the rims counts. So I hear you thinking you should get some ultra light wedssports or something, and I'd say 'sure, but this is your first drift day, aren't you worried about drifting up onto a curb with a 2 grand+ set of wheels', if you've got the money to burn go for the lightest rim you can afford, but stock 18 Rays will also be great, they are light wheels, and you won't cry if you bend or otherwise hurt them. Disclaimer, I'm not a drifter, though it is in my future plans, this recommendation is simply based on my own assumptions which are based on my extensive experience with fast cars and decent understanding of physics as it applies to cars, though not necessarily drifting. I will certainly be using my stock rays for drifting when I do get around to it. By the way, Scorpion is spelled incorrectly in your sig. (I'm sorry I can't help it ) Good luck on your drift day, and remember.... VID OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN!

I was looking at a Caterham at the second hand car showroom where I saw the first Z that interested me. I've never driven one or anything like it, but what surprised me was how big they are in reality (they always look so dinky on the track). I would love one one day, but to be honest, if I had that kind of money, I'd be looking for a nice TVR. I've been through a LOT of cars, but I haven't been through every post in this thread, I scanned the first half of the first page then posted (shame on me), so if I missed that you already stated what your basic criteria are for your next car, my apologies. Tell me what they are and I'll try to come up with some interesting ideas.