Rob332

So Its time to replace the front discs and pads on my 03 DE so an upgrade is on the agenda. I'm looking at either DBA T2 or stoptech discs. And either hawk pc or ds2500 pads. I've had no experience with either so can't decide which ones to get and don't want to make the wrong choice. I'm looking for a fast road setup that will also be capable of some track time. Which would you guys chose ? If you feel there are better combos for a similar price I'll welcome any suggestions as there are some very experienced zedders on here...... Thank you please.

Try going from the other direction ...major air was had that day.

The road from the Dev leading through Bolton Abbey towards burnsall and ending up in Grassington is great. Lots of twistys ! Beautiful place. I grew up in Skipton so spent a lot of time on that road on random drives when I had just past my test. Keep an eye out for the bunnies through. They seem to have a death wish when they come out on an evening.

I think if you try and contact Yodel they will not speak to you as their contract is with the seller, not yourself. ( As per Ekona ) I once had an issue with a seller using ' My Herpes ' to deliver some mats for my Zed. They said they had delivered it when they hadn't. I phoned the seller who was actually really helpful. Turned out the package was still in their depot. The seller mentioned they would never use them again. Now when I'm going to purchase from E-bay I check the courier. If it's some garbage cheapo one that gets paid by the drop and does not care, I don't buy it.

Oh no ! If you leave it in and drive it, it will probably melt to the gears in the box. You could try filling with oil and seeing if it floats to the top near the filling hole where you can use something to fish it out ? Or drain the oil again with the car jacked up at an angle which would make it flow towards the drain hole ?

I admire your perseverance when it comes to cost saving, but a local repair on the front bumper would probably look garbage. The paint has already reacted. If you paint over it you are going to have the same issue. Colour match is also going to be a ball ache. Metallic Silver can be hard to match. If you paint one area of the bumper only, it is going to stand out a mile. Also the paint you use could react with the paint that is already on the bumper and over time it begins to split and peel away. Then you would have to paint it compete any way. Good look with whatever you decide, If you are going DIY get your paint mixed professionally.

There is no way it is going to cost £1,500 - £2,000 as suggested above. The front bumper will need to be taken back to bare plastic and fully re prepped because of the reaction in the paint, but I cannot see this costing more than £200 cash. The wing blends should be avoidable. Drop in at a few bodyshops with the car for some quotes. All the best dude, hope you get it sorted.

I use an app called Car Gauge Pro. It's Android only as far as I am aware, but it works everytime. I know a lot of people use Torque with no issues, maybe it's the actual reader itself ? Only reason I don't use it is because it does not work on JDM imports.

Do you have any of the thick ones Jon ? I've been after one for ages.

Ouch! When you are ordering your bits from the dealer I would ask them about the reset procedure when the curtain airbag has deployed. You may need to replace the SRS ECU, these can be expensive. On the other hand they may just be able to reset it for you. All the best

Hi Ricky, As above, if a reset using the window switch itself does not work, then there is a small black reset button directly on the motor itself. http://www.powerwin.com.au/mechanicscorner/Nissan%20Reset%20Procedure.pdf The door card will need to come off, and I'm pretty sure there is a guide on how to do this in the guides section. The button on the motor will be hidden behind a circular piece of black tape. Just pull this off and you should see it Hope this helps.

Isn't a fluctuation check what was happening at 1:15 onward? Seemed to be holding it steady, needle on the right was still, but the left one was wavering. Happy to have a crack at checking them myself, though I don't have the best tools for doing it properly. Should be able to spin the discs and see if there are any variations in thickness etc. Would it be best to try re-bed them first and if that doesn't solve it then take them off and check them? It's worth a try. If no joy, when the wheels are off run your fingers along the surface of the disk top to bottom checking for pad transfer which would cause an uneven surface. Skimming a layer off the disc would remove this, but if the discs are worn anyway and there is a large lip I would just replace them with a good brand and a good brand of pads. It may be the case that the previous owner has fitted crappy cheap pads and these have caused your issue by transferring material on the discs. Treat yourself and upgrade to some dba t2s and hawk pads.

Nope, they only noted down tread depth and disc thickness. As you can see from the vid, they didn't record any data from the rolling road, they just looked at the dials and said it looks fine. Halfords in Wakefield. He hasn't done a full RBT. Looks like he has only checked the efficiency. Probably why it was free. He should have really done a fluctuation check by holding the pedal at a steady pressure. This checks for fluctuation of braking effort. A printout would have highlighted any imbalance also. Anything around 30% would need looking into. Best bet mate, if you are not mechanically minded would be to take the car to a decent garage for them to whip the wheels off and have a look at the condition of your brakes. Before I became an insurance engineer, I was a mechanic for 8 years and I wouldn't trust anyone from Halfords to hold a sponge, never mind a spanner. If they have one, you can ask them to do a full roller brake test and get a printout. if you are concerned about damaging your diff then ask them to just road test it. They will notice anything unusual. Hope this helps

Did you get a printout to show the figures ? And is that the Halfords in Huddersfield?

It can be replaced, joined at the roof frame and the sill. You would be looking at approx. 13hours to replace, plus around 6 hours to paint and blend into the front door. 1/4 panel would be around £500 new from Nissan. Total rough cost would be around £1,400 + VAT depending on the labour rate.

Ouch ! This seems to be happening a lot at the moment. I would get a few quotes from reasonable repairers first and see if your neighbour is able to pay out of their own pocket. Although you are non fault, insurers are still asking you to declare 'any incidents' and unfortunately your premium may still go up as a result. Hindering corrosion around newly welded panels where they are joined is a PITA, so it would be better for the car if the panel was repaired. Also you would be looing at big saving on parts and labour if it was. If the cost is too high for your neighbour, then I would go through your insurer. Hope you get it sorted.

I feel your pain ! Someone hit my drivers side rear quarter panel while it was parked. They also drove off, and no note left. I still need to get it repaired at a cost of approx. £600. Looking at the image, it looks like your front bumper is out of shape also. And based on the impacted area you may wish to get a geometry check carried out to eliminate any possible wheel alignment issues. I hope you mange to get it sorted soon.

Just because it doesn't have steering wheel controls doesn't mean it is base spec. Mines an import, but got imported to a Nissan dealer in London from new, doesn't have cruise control or stereo controls on the wheel, but it has everything else. Heated leather, brembos etc.

I got mine from this seller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-DOOR-WINDOW-MOTOR-LH-NEAR-SIDE-FITS-FAIRLADY-350Z-3-5-Z33-2002-2014-/401147583809?fits=Model%3A350+Z+Roadster&hash=item5d66425d41:g:dlMAAOSw1vlUuZgd They advertise 12 months warranty, but they only honour it if a garage fits it and you have an invoice to prove. I originally changed the brushes on mine, but that was when the only motors I could find for sale were £100. Motor lasted around 7 months then it packed in completely so I decided just to renew it.

I've just replaced mine. You can buy replacements on e bay at the moment for £45. Regarding fitting, I'm sure a local garage will do it for a couple of hours labour. I would not recommend going to Nissan as their prices are extortionate.

If its not obvious, I usually remove each spark plug in turn. You can usually tell which coil pack is faulty, as the corresponding plug will still be wet with fuel indicating that particular cylinder has not fired.

Does anyone know what the correct size is for the replacement window motor brushes. And where you can get them ? N/S motor has packed in, and looking at the cost of a replacement, I think I m going to just replace the brushes and see how it goes.

Many thanks guys. Was just checking that there was no difference. Guess I'll just go with the cheaper one.

So I need to change the engine oil on my DE. Does anyone know what the differences are between these ? If there are any, as one costs more than the other. http://www.opieoils....ce-engines.aspx http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

Out of interest. Who was the accident management company ?