RobPhoboS

Ok pretty low mileage but (no offense intended here!) - I just can't imagine someone caring that much about it now, as long as it's been serviced, sure, and proof of it but by Nissan specifically ? You have guys like Sly at Kaizer Motors who worked at Nissan for 10 years or something, plus plenty of other places (closer to you) that have experienced people who have been working the cars for years, unlike Nissan themselves most likely Still just a service, do a search on here, see if anything comes up.

Depending on the age/mileage - is that really worth it ??? Just to change oil filter etc

A tiny update but a full review ASAP. They are freaking awesome! I'm very very happy. (I was rubbish with taking photos, as I fitted by myself but I'll get some next weekend on the ramp!)

Correct. Technically on the car already but need to finish off height and other bits tomorrow. ??? Critically damped to both compression and rebound for the 350Z? Fair play, I have no idea of the un/sprung masses, but if you do, nice one Moving to your car, what dampers were on it before, OEM? It's on the first post but they are Bilstein B6's with Tein S springs (new), which are just under a year old, so pretty fresh. I'll chuck relevant info on a separate post.

Correct. Technically on the car already but need to finish off height and other bits tomorrow.

I'm on Android, can't say for Apple.

Kielder KWT-002-02 https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/kielder-kwt-002-1-2-drive-18v-brushless/ http://amzn.eu/1WS81Tm I bought this yesterday to replace 2 other impact wrenches I have, this one has the best of both. Small, light, precise and powerful. You can get this one with 1 battery but if you need another battery they are quite expensive, so you save some cash getting this bundle instead. It does warn you that it takes typically one full battery drain of use to get it 'run-in' so to speak. However it took my torqued wheel nuts off as it's first job, no problem I've not taken anything else off that's above 115nm of torque yet but after using it all day, no sign of battery life dying yet either. It might seem a bit steep but if you work on your cars frequently it's worth the price. I looked at the alternatives, watched videos etc and they are all about £50 more with one battery and less power, plus this has a 3 year warranty. Also if you get any other power tools from Kielder they can use the same battery so you only need the 'naked' version without the batteries No I don't work for them, I just think they released a decent product.

Finally I found one that works (04 DE), this is via WiFi http://amzn.eu/4jiJTvi

I'll make another thread specifically to the GT1's but link to this one too as it has great info. A busy weekend ahead, these and cleaning injectors And just to note, Jerrick has been utterly sublime with emails back and forth between us, don't get me wrong there are plenty of great traders on here too, just that this was different

http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/377787-gas-door-fuel-door-fix.html Try doing searches on here and the US forums, try it like this if you've not seen it before: (copy and past this into google, change the bold to whatever you want) site:my350z.com fuel door site:350z-uk.com fuel door

Just in case the OP didn't see how easy it is to do:

Yup, worth having anyway. Just remember to unwind it back rather than leaving it on the last setting you used

Replies #29 & #31 Take some time to look through his channel IF you are interested in suspension.

Did you watch the videos I put up ?

Orrr spend about £90, and 40 mins to put in a new mount

Totally guessing, so no, I don't know - but guessing... if the gearbox mount is perishing, then the bits and bobs aren't lined up properly and within tolerance for smooth changing, it'll will get worse and worse. Hardrace make a rubber one, if your car is daily driven and you want comfort, try that or a new OEM one. H-dev were selling Hardrace iirc, or google, easy to get. If you don't care, go for poly like Torque Solutions (for ex). For now, take care shifting, and try and pause into N before, let it settle for that moment and then change. This is just from my experience, I'm certainly not claiming this is 100% the problem. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/97960-transmissions-mount/ http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/95585-gearbox-diff-oil-changemolyslip/ try a search on google - for example copy and past this: site:350z-uk.com gearbox mount

:lol: Brilliant.

Which is exactly what Shaikh proved in several of his videos, in particular Motons that were really intended for track use only, plus a heap of phase delay with ridiculously long piping for the external reservoir. That's obviously NOT to say they are poor quality but were used for the wrong application and were revalved. Just for an example.

It was certainly the case for me, the old OEM mount is rubber and certainly wasn't in top condition after removing. It really is worth trying first before expecting the worst ! (not to say that syncro might be damaged but it alleviates the horrid feeling).

Yup, and I've zero problem with that, it's great to get a confirmation from people with them on the cars. I just pointed out that it seemed fruitless to compare what you'd suggested as that is highly suggestive to say that all of the MeisterR models are the same, that's not on.

Interesting. How would mounts affect the syhncro operation unless you get somesort of outer casing distortion. The shifter isn't on external cables/rods - it's attached to the gearbox directly. Did you change oil at the same time? I did the gearbox mount first, the oil had previously been done about 2 years before (I stick with the Nissan oil). That vastly improved it, no grinding. Then Kaizer/Sly did the diff mounts as the main one had popped, then several weeks later he did the engine mounts. It progressively got better and better each time. Fast forward about another 8 months and I just did the gearbox/diff oil again I've posted this before, so the OP can have a seach and see if they want to do this. I'd probably just start with a new gearbox mount, but my ones are poly just to clear any confusion (except engine mounts are vibratechnics). The reason I'd say try a new standard gearbox mount first is that a poly one will bring potentially unwanted vibration.

But did you not say yourself that they were the entry level MeisterR's ? (£700 vs £1800) ZetaRs wherever they are on the scale of things now. Otherwise, I don't see your point. What are £1800, the new MeisterRs? The KWv3s are £1600. They are the entry level ones, or cheapest if you like. And your comparing the top end road/track day KW v3s which cost £1728 RRP (or cheaper potentially elsewhere) against them, which seems pointless. Same as comparing Bilstein B6 shocks against their top road/track day shocks, obviously more development has gone into the higher ones (I'd hope).

It's mounts - either gearbox (most likely), diff or engine. I changed all of my ones, doesn't happen any more.

But did you not say yourself that they were the entry level MeisterR's ? (£700 vs £1800)