RobPhoboS

I love the current Mustang, the updates look tasty too (imho). One thing... My good friend had one to detail at his unit, new and as he advised the owner to tell the dealership NOT to wash it or remove the protective stuff etc. (they mess up the paintwork every time) When it turned up we were both amazed at the quality of the paint work. It's the best I've ever seen, and I think in the top 2 for him. We've seen plenty of factory fresh cars from Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche, McLaren etc etc and their quality, especially compared to this example are truly poor. Actually the whole car was very nice indeed

I've noticed over the last few weeks that photobucket is getting slower and slower, to the point whereby I can't see anything from it if it's posted. I'm going to dump everything over to www.imgur.com Seems like that service is running properly

NOTE: I've updated the review to reflect the release of the 2018 version of the GT1's. In super short - Frigging awesome Yes - I shall be taking better photo's If you want to read the long winded bit... A tiny bit on the background: My car was on Bilstein B6 shocks, with Tein S springs which I installed back in February 2015, along with the Eibach ARB's, and since then the car has done around 12k miles. At that point I had some poly bushings and OEM rubber bushings, the B6's were replacing the completely worn out OEM suspension. It was a big difference, a little firmer at low speed but far more controlled over 40mph without feeling crashy at all. So I was happy, although I felt the steering response could be sharper. About a year later this led me to SPL bushings, which are metal and really suited for track work. I had installed camber arms and a number of SPL bushings which removed the slack and sticktion from the polys in several key areas. This improved the steering response vastly but of course increased the NVH dramatically, whilst that didn't worry me too much it wasn't a good combination with the B6's sadly. They seem to have an initial firm response, due to high gas pressure in the strut – better explained here (from 1min 25s onwards): So for a while it didn't bother me but started to become tiresome trying to dodge every single bit of rough road, drain cover or pot hole. This makes for tiring journeys at town/city speeds but as mentioned fine at higher speeds, as I guess the undulations are making the shocks work already, they felt good. During the winter months in 2016 I started thinking and researching about going to coilovers, the KW v3's were at the top of my list, initially. I have to say I was hesitant about coilovers from a previous experience on my old MR2. I had installed new BC 'BR' series, which unbeknownst to me had the hard spring option supplied. They were very crashy and I couldn't find a setting that I liked for the road. The build quality was good during my time with them but didn't suit our roads. I obviously made a post to get some feedback: http://www.350z-uk.c...vers-kw-v3-etc/ I have absolutely no doubt about how good the v3's are but after devouring many videos from the Suspension Truth youtube channels, you can pick up a few clues that he's sometimes critical of how the KW's are valved and that they are twintube, although I imagine the top kind you can find off the shelf. Once again, it's NOT to say they are bad just that it may not suit my particular needs. I also didn't want rebound and compression dials unless I was absolutely confident in how to set them properly, for both road and track. I prefer to just have one dial that goes from soft-hard but ideally one that does something meaningful as long as it measured/matched out properly. Remember that most of the cars I've read about are on rubber or poly bushings, so I had to be wary of any coilovers not providing enough comfort for most of my road driving. I will say right now that I was positively impressed with how Jerrick from Meister R had given some pretty detailed information on that thread, and on other posts as well as plenty of other forums. The usual thing happens were people are cynical, nothing wrong with that, it's good to get into a debate but this is the internet, so it usually deteriorates into stubbornness, even if it's well intentioned. I thought these were both good reviews and helped put me in the GT1 camp: http://my350z.com/fo...-coilovers.html http://civictype-r.c...p?f=30&t=287495 (if you look at the 4th post down, he had an issue that was quickly resolved) http://civictype-r.c...77539&start=380 He's pretty nifty at the ring too: So I emailed Jerrick, I can only say that the way he dealt with me was mightily impressive, especially considering the time of year, on new years eve for heavens sake ! (apologies about that!) We exchanged many emails over the last couple of weeks and I can't thank him enough for how good the experience has been. Yes obviously they want to sell products, I'm well aware of that but there wasn't any pressure pre-sale, and really helpful post-sale when I had a couple of technical-ish questions (and what they were are described below). Installation: I was hoping to get some help here, not for the physical procedure but so that I had some decent photo's to share of the process, unfortunately my friend was working. I can only apologise but the day I went to install them I did it by myself, and it had turned from rain to snow, so time fairly critical. Packaged very securely, you get the suspension, rear adjustment extenders and the custom C-spanners for the locking collars. These are unique from other ones I've seen, you have to slide them down/up over the teeth but they lock in tightly so they don't slip. Extra kudos for this design. If you don't have an impact wrench at home, just spend the £180 and get yourself a Keilder and impact sockets ! https://www.machinem...-18v-brushless/ Taking the B6's off is simple, there are enough videos on youtube showing how to do it, this being one of the more concise ones: I just unbolted the droplinks at the front to give me a bit more movement. And with the rear spring bucket, I only unbolted the outer bolt, you get enough clearance with some pushing to wiggle the spring and rubber cones out. The inner bolt adjusts the toe (iirc), so I'd rather leave it alone. I checked that both front GT1's were the same height, you can use a micrometer/tape measure for this. It's pointless comparing against the old shocks as they'll be different due to the springs etc, plus you'll have to adjust the height regardless. Installing the new suspension is very easy, they have clear instructions with them too, so ensure you read that. I cleaned and wire brushed the surface where the top mounts meet the body of the car as a bit of crud had collected up there. Obviously with the rear, open the boot, and remove the plastic covering on the brace, I took the top edge pieces off for the extender cable to go through. I ended up using the hole for one of the plastic popper fittings, and drilled a hole through this one, saved time having to work out any measurements. Once the plastic covers are back on the strut, I was left with quite a length piece of extender cable which I chopped down. A little tip here, after chopping to the correct length, it wont fit straight into the adjuster dial, so just unwind 4-6 of the individual wires and snip them off. With the rubber covered coiled sheath, I found I couldn't quite cut them but you can bend it whilst in the jaws of cutters and it'll just snap at a certain angle. Then it'll be thin enough to then securely get the dial back on. Ok, so its' on the car but now you've got the quite time consuming task of getting the ride height to how you want it. The process is simple, as outlined here: I'm pretty sure the ride height can go just above stock if you needed it ! I spent some time getting them as evenly matched as I could, and one thing to bare in mind that it'll settle down a little lower too. I just measured from the arch to the ground before it settled, once happy, drove it around for a few mins and checked again in the same spot as before for consistency. Yes, this took several hundred attempts Time for a drive: For me this is the scary bit, did I make a good decision and will they do what I was looking for ??? Namely, remove the harshness for normal low speed driving, retain controlled driving for higher speed stuff, and when needed perform positively at the track (coming soon-ish). I have initially set it to this but I'll continue to play around and see how it goes. -17 front -15 rear Thank f$%k for that Immediately a gigantic improvement at low speed, all of the sharpness has vanished, the steering feels good and the body is not wobbling or floating. Bonza ! Yes, the SPL bushings occasionally still rattle depending on the surface at LOW speed but by enlarge that is heard, not felt as it was before. It really is a remarkable difference, as it feels like they are working in comparison to the B6's. Moving on to motorway roads, it feels planted, the joints you sometimes get on them don't give the car any problems, and nor does it feel like it's wallowing with the undulations. Onto quiet back roads they just soak up our lovely (not) condition surfaces giving a greater sense of comfort and handling. Obviously I shall play around with the settings more, and I'd really like to see how it feels with the settings going towards 'hard', simply to feel what it does. I'll also try to measure the F/R frequency (approximately) and get it to what Shaikh calls 'flat ride' – not to be confused with ride height. I'm not claiming to be a suspension guru but I'm enthusiastic about learning more, and the technical aspects of it in order to take advantage for use in my own car. The GT1's have delivered, put a smile on my face and stopped me wincing driving on our crumbling infrastructure of roads. It's very early days yet, I've covered about 100 miles, and I'll be updating this post as time and experience moves on, I'm very much looking forward to track time with them. A big thank you to the people at Meister R and Black Art Designs, I think you've done great work (mods - possible to remove media limit when embedding youtube vids?)

A good way to identify (if belt):

I'd love to see some installation photo's if you can get that done

Ok pretty low mileage but (no offense intended here!) - I just can't imagine someone caring that much about it now, as long as it's been serviced, sure, and proof of it but by Nissan specifically ? You have guys like Sly at Kaizer Motors who worked at Nissan for 10 years or something, plus plenty of other places (closer to you) that have experienced people who have been working the cars for years, unlike Nissan themselves most likely Still just a service, do a search on here, see if anything comes up.

Depending on the age/mileage - is that really worth it ??? Just to change oil filter etc

A tiny update but a full review ASAP. They are freaking awesome! I'm very very happy. (I was rubbish with taking photos, as I fitted by myself but I'll get some next weekend on the ramp!)

Correct. Technically on the car already but need to finish off height and other bits tomorrow. ??? Critically damped to both compression and rebound for the 350Z? Fair play, I have no idea of the un/sprung masses, but if you do, nice one Moving to your car, what dampers were on it before, OEM? It's on the first post but they are Bilstein B6's with Tein S springs (new), which are just under a year old, so pretty fresh. I'll chuck relevant info on a separate post.

Correct. Technically on the car already but need to finish off height and other bits tomorrow.

I'm on Android, can't say for Apple.

Kielder KWT-002-02 https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/kielder-kwt-002-1-2-drive-18v-brushless/ http://amzn.eu/1WS81Tm I bought this yesterday to replace 2 other impact wrenches I have, this one has the best of both. Small, light, precise and powerful. You can get this one with 1 battery but if you need another battery they are quite expensive, so you save some cash getting this bundle instead. It does warn you that it takes typically one full battery drain of use to get it 'run-in' so to speak. However it took my torqued wheel nuts off as it's first job, no problem I've not taken anything else off that's above 115nm of torque yet but after using it all day, no sign of battery life dying yet either. It might seem a bit steep but if you work on your cars frequently it's worth the price. I looked at the alternatives, watched videos etc and they are all about £50 more with one battery and less power, plus this has a 3 year warranty. Also if you get any other power tools from Kielder they can use the same battery so you only need the 'naked' version without the batteries No I don't work for them, I just think they released a decent product.

Finally I found one that works (04 DE), this is via WiFi http://amzn.eu/4jiJTvi

I'll make another thread specifically to the GT1's but link to this one too as it has great info. A busy weekend ahead, these and cleaning injectors And just to note, Jerrick has been utterly sublime with emails back and forth between us, don't get me wrong there are plenty of great traders on here too, just that this was different

http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/377787-gas-door-fuel-door-fix.html Try doing searches on here and the US forums, try it like this if you've not seen it before: (copy and past this into google, change the bold to whatever you want) site:my350z.com fuel door site:350z-uk.com fuel door

Just in case the OP didn't see how easy it is to do:

Yup, worth having anyway. Just remember to unwind it back rather than leaving it on the last setting you used

Replies #29 & #31 Take some time to look through his channel IF you are interested in suspension.

Did you watch the videos I put up ?

Orrr spend about £90, and 40 mins to put in a new mount

Totally guessing, so no, I don't know - but guessing... if the gearbox mount is perishing, then the bits and bobs aren't lined up properly and within tolerance for smooth changing, it'll will get worse and worse. Hardrace make a rubber one, if your car is daily driven and you want comfort, try that or a new OEM one. H-dev were selling Hardrace iirc, or google, easy to get. If you don't care, go for poly like Torque Solutions (for ex). For now, take care shifting, and try and pause into N before, let it settle for that moment and then change. This is just from my experience, I'm certainly not claiming this is 100% the problem. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/97960-transmissions-mount/ http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/95585-gearbox-diff-oil-changemolyslip/ try a search on google - for example copy and past this: site:350z-uk.com gearbox mount

:lol: Brilliant.

Which is exactly what Shaikh proved in several of his videos, in particular Motons that were really intended for track use only, plus a heap of phase delay with ridiculously long piping for the external reservoir. That's obviously NOT to say they are poor quality but were used for the wrong application and were revalved. Just for an example.

It was certainly the case for me, the old OEM mount is rubber and certainly wasn't in top condition after removing. It really is worth trying first before expecting the worst ! (not to say that syncro might be damaged but it alleviates the horrid feeling).