KyleR

Right i've got a fix for this. Still have the sell the MPSS though Take a wee look in the FS section and you will find a beautiful set of Linea Course Dyna rims with rubber for under a grand. Granted the rears need replaced but the fronts are pretty decent at over 5mm. If you sell the MPSS for say £400, you only need to find another £580 to buy these. The rears will last another few couple of thousand miles to let you save further for replacements

As the rolling radius are different under higher speed turning it brakes the outside wheel If you run the 245-40-19 and 275-35-19 the rolling radius is about the same and causes no issue 245/35/19 is 0.91% smaller diameter/rolling radius than oem 225/45/18, your 245/40/19 are 2.88% larger. The 275/35/19 that we all run on the rear are a mere 0.44% smaller. OEM difference between front and rear is 2.73% larger at the rear. 245/35/19 - 275/35/19 difference is 3.21% larger at the rear, only 0.48% out. What you are running with 245/40/19 and 275/35/19 actually has the front tyres 0.59% larger which is completely wrong Are you sure those are the correct sizes and you didn't mean 255/35/19 front? That would give a 2.12% larger rear which would be fine. Or running 18's with 255/40 and 275/40 which would be a 2.42% larger rear, 0.31% out which is about as close as you can get?

Those HTC's are awful, I dumped mine and got an eyephone

It's £100 difference for the rims and maybe £50 or so for the tyres, sell the mpss pair for £250 and wait til next months wages come in

Oooaaffff!! ^^^ plenty in stock, same day/next day despatch

What's your plans for the car? I notice you're offloading a lot of OEM stuff...

Mine wasn't actually a breaker bar, I just call it that, it's basically a pipe, but it fits at a good angle onto the end of my small 1/4" ratchet perfectly.

£50 They're really worth nothing at all. When I replaced my OEM earlier this year with a brand new shiny cat back I just dumped the exhaust which was fine except a blow in the Y pipe.

Too much stretch for my liking. Most people go for those sizes in 19's with 245/35 front and 275/35 rear, I think 245/40 and 275/40 are normal for 18's, but don't waste money on little wheels, sell the mpss and buy some 19's

Are you sure coil packs for cylinder 4 and 6 are connected to the correct plugs? Very common to mix those 2 up.

I used a 36" breaker bar, was a piece of strawberry cheesecake using it

It's a shame really, the specs are pretty good and the price is attractive.

Looks like an Irish import to me, not that that makes any difference.

So tip of the day "don't buy HSD Monopro coilovers as the rears don't provide any drop." Good to know as they were on my list of possibilities, just BC and Meisters left.

Kumho KU39's are worth a shout. A few members have them and only good reviews so far, including from me.

Not all car manufactures use the stud bolts, they're pretty pointless really as they're only to prevent you placing the rear wheels on the front, which is easily preventable by actually looking at the tyre. Most people also remove them because they don't fit with after market rims. If the disks are the right sizes mentioned a few posts ago then they are fine.

Find? He's the seller

There's a hint of a Snap-on look to them and they do look well made. Personally I wouldn't be using the 1/4" sockets as they're multipoint ones rather than 6 sided and can screw up your nuts much much easier, but I guess if you're not working on hard to removed nuts and bolts they'll be fine.

9.5 front 10.5 rear with et 20 all round is the perfect flush fitment.

Front tyres for 20's should be 255/30/20 Your rear tires are the correct size, but bloody awful

I seen these earlier and currently watching the wheels and engine cover. Is the rad cap genuine? There are so many fakes out there on eBay that I have avoided buying one so far. Do you have a buy it now forum price you could PM me for the engine cover and rad cap if it's genuine? Also I'd love the timing chain cover, but I just know I'll never be bothered to fit it.

Personally I'd play along with it, but tell him you will only accept the money if it's paid to you via Paypal as a gift

Sorry, I don't want to be a dick, but I'm going to have to be. You didn't have time to lift a piece of paper and write "DanBoy" on it, but you did have time to photo edit 5 pictures to add text? Surely the adding of text took longer than writing your username? I doubt it's a genuine Nismo. Nissan only released an add on lip in the USDM, but replicas are easily available everywhere else

You need 3. As described before: 1 to the OBD for power, then you disconnect the throttle sensor from the pedal, plug 1 lead into it (the pedal), then plug the other lead into car. This may not be exactly right as I dont have one, but the concept will be correct. The D1 modifies a signal from the pedal to the car, so basically is plugged in between the pedal and car.

Lets just say there's a reason it's 2k instead if 5...