KyleR

Go look at the places, some places won't have the ramp between the uprights so you can just drive right in, others have a ramp that the wheels sit on, so again, no ramp to drive over and smash your sump

Brakes did cross my mind, but I fitted new brakes all round about 2 years/5000 miles ago, but I'll certainly look at them when I get it off the ground. This sounds encouraging, hopefully mine will be the same then

Can't be much worse

I honestly don't think heat soak is much of a problem when driving around. Think of the amount of cool air coming in through the grill. Sitting in traffic or driving slowly around town, yes, but then you won't notice a few bhp anyway.

A couple of the cheaper ones may be Cat D's, that coupled with nicer weather on the way pushing up dealers prices

I don't have an experience with them as of yet, but BC's are probably what i'll go for. The price is good and they maintain the OEM separate spring, so there'll be no worrying about anything going wrong. If I had the money I'd be going for HKS Hypermax, which are around £900, or if I was really flush, KW V3's As for the reinforcing, there are a few members who are running true coil overs without any additional work without any issues, but there's always the risk. People running true coil overs on some BMW's have had the rear shock burst through the turret

Ltd to 155mph and a near as dam it 6 sec 0 - 60, lol, no not fast at all Spursmd playing devils advocate with 350's again, well there is something new Just trying to add the voice of reason I would say 0-60 is about standard for a hot hatch these days, that was my point. Thats true, but it's also as fast 0-60 as a Countach or Ferrari Testarossa

Reading that it does appear that it was remapped prior, but I can't see how having a larger filter attached to a 100mm pipe which narrows to 75mm getting much gains, if any, never mind 15bhp. It's still using the stock throttle bodies, so still only able to suck in the same amount of air. I could accept a few extra possibly due to a better designed cone filter and/or smoother intake pipes, but again, not 15.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/54763-how-to-fix-the-inaccurate-fuel-gauge-pdf/

It's behind the seats. I'm not 100% if there is one on each side, but one is behind the sub, so all that has to come out. I'll find the guide.

Im pretty sure that the car wasn't remapped with the Stillen intakes on and therefore a simple remapping would have seen the same gains, if not more with stock air boxes.

Those are a copy of the OEM arms.

1. True coil overs have the spring on the shock, the 350Z has this on the front, but it has separate springs on the rear. A true coil over set up will get rid of the separate spring at the rear. However, you should probably reinforce the rear if you plan on using these. 2. I'm on springs, the only reason is price. When I get a few quid together, i'll be upgrading. 3. If you drop it more than 25mm you'll need rear adjustable camber arms, but if you really slam it, you'll need front ones too. I'd also advice adjustable drop links to because the originals will wear out a lot quicker on a lowered car.

hen the light comes on the trip computer will say about 35-40 miles, when it reads "-- --" you'll have another few miles to get to a pump, so plenty of time. Like Arran, when my light comes on and I brim it, I get about 60 odd liters in, but thats because my fuel sensor needs a bit of a clean to read more accurately. When I brim it, the needle is just below the top line on the gauge and falls to half full rapidly, but it should really read just above the top line if the sensor is reading correctly.

Has the G35 got a pollen filter? I know the 350z doesn't...

You really want facelift lights, they look much better, but will cost a few quid compared to earlier ones, like 3 times the price!

Specifically have to be blue? Black mishimoto ones are very cheap.

Right, I'm pretty sure I need a new near side front wheel bearing, due to hearing a whirling noise when turn right. However, I also get a buffeting sound at around 70 mph from the same wheel going straight. It sounds like something plastic has become dislodged and is buffeting off the road surface or the arch liner is rubbing off the tyre. When I slow down by about 5 mph it stops completely. But, when I pulled over to check it out, nothing is loose, not the skirt, not the arch liner, nothing, everything is solid and I have a Z Speed under tray so it's not that. So can it also be the wheel bearing as well? I'm puzzled!

All cats are the same, LHD/RHD. However, our traders on here can get you other makes of HFCs

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2657232/Moment-unwitting-buzzard-flies-straight-B-2-stealth-bomber.html Anywhere near you guys? I'm sure there can't be many around

Try sending Flyboy a PM

Look fine to me

There is a clue in the title: Oops, missed that But I'm going with Wills defence of me

What year, mate? I have a pair from a UK '04.

Phew