KyleR

^^^ Is that a brickyard red 350 I see in those pictures? I thought that colour was only available in the states? It's stunning!

Im pretty sure that the car wasn't remapped with the Stillen intakes on and therefore a simple remapping would have seen the same gains, if not more with stock air boxes.

Those are a copy of the OEM arms.

1. True coil overs have the spring on the shock, the 350Z has this on the front, but it has separate springs on the rear. A true coil over set up will get rid of the separate spring at the rear. However, you should probably reinforce the rear if you plan on using these. 2. I'm on springs, the only reason is price. When I get a few quid together, i'll be upgrading. 3. If you drop it more than 25mm you'll need rear adjustable camber arms, but if you really slam it, you'll need front ones too. I'd also advice adjustable drop links to because the originals will wear out a lot quicker on a lowered car.

hen the light comes on the trip computer will say about 35-40 miles, when it reads "-- --" you'll have another few miles to get to a pump, so plenty of time. Like Arran, when my light comes on and I brim it, I get about 60 odd liters in, but thats because my fuel sensor needs a bit of a clean to read more accurately. When I brim it, the needle is just below the top line on the gauge and falls to half full rapidly, but it should really read just above the top line if the sensor is reading correctly.

Has the G35 got a pollen filter? I know the 350z doesn't...

You really want facelift lights, they look much better, but will cost a few quid compared to earlier ones, like 3 times the price!

Specifically have to be blue? Black mishimoto ones are very cheap.

Right, I'm pretty sure I need a new near side front wheel bearing, due to hearing a whirling noise when turn right. However, I also get a buffeting sound at around 70 mph from the same wheel going straight. It sounds like something plastic has become dislodged and is buffeting off the road surface or the arch liner is rubbing off the tyre. When I slow down by about 5 mph it stops completely. But, when I pulled over to check it out, nothing is loose, not the skirt, not the arch liner, nothing, everything is solid and I have a Z Speed under tray so it's not that. So can it also be the wheel bearing as well? I'm puzzled!

All cats are the same, LHD/RHD. However, our traders on here can get you other makes of HFCs

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2657232/Moment-unwitting-buzzard-flies-straight-B-2-stealth-bomber.html Anywhere near you guys? I'm sure there can't be many around

Try sending Flyboy a PM

Look fine to me

There is a clue in the title: Oops, missed that But I'm going with Wills defence of me

What year, mate? I have a pair from a UK '04.

Phew

haha With there being 3 different model years which cross over each other and one of which only lasting 12 months, it can be a bit confusing at first, but once you understand the subtle, but pretty obvious differences, it's very easy

Thanks buddy

I'm gonna feel very inferior when this is all set and done with my puny NA

It's not so much that they sell uprated drop links, they just changed them midway through production because the originals were a bit dodgy.

Oh @*!#! BCM blown?

Front sounds like the banana bar unfortunately, hopefully just the bush, though For the rears, you can get uprated drop links from Clarks Motorsport on here and probably CS (Cougar Store) too. They will last much longer than the originals on the car and cost less than the Whitelines which you don't really need due to not lowering the car.

Did you try refitting the OEM bulb? It's possible that the LEDs are just duff.

What 14N said - yours is a DE engined Revup (296BHP/300PS), providing it has LED rear lights and upgraded interior. The upgraded interior will have the hazard switch in front of the gearstick.