ilogikal1

... and also criminal damage.

Which coating? Most have a 24 hour curing period before the coating can get wet so what you've got is waterspotting. A waterspot remover will likely solve it but if it's bad you'll need to polish and re-apply. This is also why most coating manufacturers offer a topping sealant, to protect the coating whilst it cures fully.

Well I mean it's no P1 GTR LM... Just sayin'

Clearly you've never seen the film Taxi... Or the infinitely even worserer remake, Taxi;

You'd look no more (or less) a knob driving up and down your local high street in this than you would in a Maserati MC12 or AM Valkyrie to be fair. But then that's not really their purpose, is it?

Petrol unit goes to a (limited*) 11,000rpm by all accounts. *Limited from the 15,000rpm when it's the actual F1 car, "for reliability".

The only thing worse than the soundtrack are the panel gaps. It's almost a shame that nothing actually fits that car...

Excellent write up, Stu, and equally excellent results there too. Looks like you've learnt a fair bit too which is good. Also, welcome to the fake bead club!

Nope, more suds means more foaming agent taking up space in the bottle, if anything at all. Lubricants are what you're after for a safe wash, which Bathe & Bathe+ have plenty of. Most people like suds because it convinced them the shampoo is doing something but they're there purely for aesthetics.

Similarly I aim to only polish once a year at most, if it needs it. There's plenty of great glazes out there these days that you really don't need to do it more than that. Even if you do have the world's softest paint on your car.

You can cause damage with a DA but you'd need to be very heavy handed with it - the advantage of a DA over a rotary is that it disperses the heat build up better which makes it a lot more forgiving to use, but at the end of the day you're using a cutting compound to wear away the surface of the paint so there's always potential to get it wrong. Realistically though, you'd need to have bad paint or be a proper mong to actually achieve striking through with a DA. You can actually cause a surprising amount of damage with a just sponge if you're hamfisted enough.

SRP isn't a polish. It's got the word Polish in the name, but it's not a polish. It's a glaze. And a rubbish one at that. Personal preference on soft paint is Scholl S20 Black & S30+(or S40) two stage combo for any proper correction, and Menz 2500 (PO203 in old terms) and 3000 (PO85RD in old terms) is my back up option. That said, if the Megs stuff works for you then stick with what you know. There's always an inherent risk with any cutting compound, it's just the finer the compound, the lighter the cut of the pad and the slower the machine is working at, the longer it'll take to do that damage (and get that correction for that matter...). It's more about using the product that you've got correctly for the job than using that one correct product.

I'm not even doing 'alf of 'em...

No worries Stu, happy to do it for the stickied guides in particular. Might give it a miss on my test thread though...

Pictures now re-added post-Photobucket ransom!

Usually in his handbag...

Mechanical sympathy is different to physical ability though.

But it doesn't take 45+ minutes for an A45 AMG to be able to do its pedestrian 0-60 time... Incidentally, that is why an electric hot hatch won't be able to do sub 3 second launches.

Most verbose "no" ever....

Because it only takes 45:02.3 to get that £130k from 0 to 60. That warrants every kind exclusion. Obviously.

There might be a shortlist somewhere in this thread. Possibly. GLOL!

I only use one or two products in total, never tried anything else...

Will/might. Interesting idea/definitely going to do that! Same thing really...

I saw a blue car once. True story.

Fixed that for you. We still don't know what it'll cost when (or perhaps even if, given the demand in "higher priority" territories that Gangzoom keeps mentioning) it is actually sold here.