ilogikal1

It's £150. For materials only. And "can only be applied by a professional", apparently. This 9h version is essentially their equivalent of GTechniq Crystal Serum but there's a "Light" version too, for ~£70. To be honest, it doesn't look anything particularly special for a ceramic coating which there's plenty of about these days, especially given the application.

Close, that's known as "engine broke".

Remarkably easy, as a rule. Heat up the adhesive under the wrap (be careful not to burn either the wrap or the paint underneath/around) with either a hair dryer or heat gun on a low heat, peel off the wrap then use Tardis to remove any remaining adhesive. I have no experience of plastidip so I can't help you there. If you're putting anything, either wrap or plastidip, over it I wouldn't bother sealing/waxing as it'll interfere with the adhesion. By all means polish the area, but if it's going to get covered up again there's no real need to do so, just make sure it's clean and dry before applying plastidip.

On plastic, yes. On rubber, it'll be fine to use won't last particularly well. If your car is also black, it won't damage the paintwork but it won't do much else either.

Yep, it might justify the outlay that little bit more for you. The theory is that the lens' are plastic (well, polycarbonate) and C4 is designed for plastic and offers UV protection, so I have very little doubt that it should be perfect for this but I don't want to say it is until I've tried it for myself. If I ever pull my finger out and get my wheels refurb'd and C5'd, I'll be able to test it but I don't want to crack the bottle open until I've at least had the wheels done. Don't expect it to happen any time soon though, I've been meaning to get the wheels done for about 2 years now.

I'm still experimenting on mine, but GTechniq C1/4/5 should work in theory, but I've not got round to trying that myself yet. If I find anything that does work I'll certainly let you know.

You are now, but that is quite different to; But to be honest with you, I'm not going to argue with you over your opinion on an aerial. You want my suggestions? I suggest you stop presenting your opinion as fact. You can choose to take suggestion on board or you can choose to ignore it, that's entirely up to you but I am going to leave it at that.

Just to note, on their website (as above), it doesn't name plastic in the "you can use this sealant on" list so I'm not sure how well (or if) it will bond to the headlights or how long it will last.

Well if no one else is going to mention to it then.

What do you do on rainy days? You can't wash your Z (you might get your hair wet ) and you can't drive your Z (they can't be driven with the TC on but if you turn it off in the wet you immediately explode, as I understand it), so what else is there? Get it watched, man.

I personally use Mad Cow Mango Sauce with a soft (hogs hair) brush - I find a cloth doesn't get into the textured surface too well - on mine, but a suitably diluted APC mix or even, as above, just warm water with a weak mix of shampoo also works if you don't want it dressed.

This the stuff? If so it appears to be an AIO. With some pretty... "interesting" claims actually. I've not used it (or even heard of it before actually ) myself so I can't comment on how good it is or isn't, but this made me chuckle; Followed by the instructions stating; Sorry, simple things... Yes.

Wait, let me see if I've got this right; there are still people who haven't seen Breaking Bad?!?

If that were true, things like private CCTV footage could never be used as evidence and thus rendered pointless. Nor witness statements for that matter, unless the witness just happened to be a passing police officer. Anyone can collate "evidence" of a crime. Whether it's considered admissible in a court of law depends entirely on the validity of the "evidence" itself, not who collected it. So, no, that's not true. That said, things like speed cameras require training and type approval to be operated "properly" so there's a possibility of getting any evidence collected by a random guy sat in a police van classed as insufficient evidence due to the possibility of misuse of the equipment.

I'm here. There's nothing wrong with using a sponge... ... if you slice them up and use them as tyre dressing applicators. Personally, I prefer these to the lambswool just because they don't rot like all the lambswool mitts I've had, but either would be kinder to the car than the sponge. OP, I've noticed you mentioned polishes but no wax or sealant. You'll want to add some protection after going to the effort of polishing (after the paint touch ups though, obviously). Also, look up the "2 bucket method" (or 3, as you're cleaning the wheels too - I spotted that wheel brush - or 4 if you want to go overboard with the wheels ). I assume you're referring to the polishing pads here? The advice above is referring to your wash sponge, not the polishing stage. Perhaps you could give a quick run down of your current process, just to avoid any misunderstandings?

You really should stop presenting your opinion as cast iron fact, especially when you're wrong. It's simply not the only one that works.

I took that bit for granted to be quite honest with you. What I meant was, assuming the above is the case, would it not result in both being refunded and leaving the new owner untaxed as a matter of course? Although if the system won't allow more than one person to tax a car at any given time, surely this would result in the fine for not paying the tax arriving at the same time as the new V5? I just can't quite fathom how a new owner is going to tax a car (for more than a few days, at least) at the point of sale if all refunds are going to be automated.

Just thinking out loud here, but if the tax is automatically refunded to the seller upon receipt & processing of the change of ownership, would that not make it difficult for the buyer to tax the car before that's been processed? If the refund on unused tax is automated, would the seller not get the "refund" from the new tax paid on it before the change of ownership is actually processed? And if so, how would the buyer know when s/he can tax the car themselves without waiting for the new V5 coming through and thus actually being untaxed for a period of time? I'm assuming I've missed something (probably quite obvious) here?

It wasn't predominantly about cost saving, I grant you, but some of the rhetoric I've seen/heard/read about it in the last couple of days has often raised the cost saving element, caused by less administration involved under this new system - rather as an "added bonus to the motorist" than the driving factor though.

Never done mine by post. Back in the 70's you could take it to a licensing office in Mold, then when that closed there was one in Chester. After that (late 70's)I used to pop up to the post office in Buckley or Mold and for the past 10 years I've been doing it online. Pete Sorry but if you've been doing it online for the past 10 years, how do you receive your new disc if not through the post? It is, of course, a ridiculous idea that the motorist will ever benefit from these cost saving measures in the guise of lower VED still though. Cynical? Me? Oh yes!

You might want to do something with the battery too...

There's been a few that I remember. EcoTouch has been in two now (most recently the Retro box from June) and is very good, it's thick white liquid. They've also had Croftgate - a thinner, white liquid and better on the Falkens, Glimmerman - a clear liquid an absolutely rubbish, AutoBrite - another clear liquid and lacks durability on anything and... another one I can't remember now. EcoTouch has been the best of the lot for me so far but CarPro Perl works quite well on the MPSS (useless on the Falkens though!)

The prep might be the issue, I've got MPSS on the front of mine so I'll see how I get on with on with it and report back. It could be that it doesn't play well MPSS, I'm running Falkens on the rear still (yes, I know. They just won't die!) and I'm yet to find anything that's consistent over the two brands. Some work better with the MPSS, others with the 452's. If the beading's still present then it's not completely worn off just yet, try giving them a quick wipe over next time you wash the car without adding any more product to see if the finish comes back at all.

I've not tried it myself yet, but I've not heard a bad word said about it before - I do know force curing it gives greater durability, but even without it's usually said to last a fair while. I'll let you know how I get on with it when I use it. If you don't mind me asking, what tyres have you used it on? And is it still beading water? Sometimes the tyre is just dirty and a quick clean restores it. Speaking of which, what was your prep before using it?

Admiral are okay but their modifications "cover" policy is a complete joke. Also be forewarned, they employ the automatic renewal so next year when their quote is 3x your current premium they'll just take it off you unless you specifically cancel it.