ilogikal1

It depends on what you're ultimately aiming to achieve with the finish; wet look/depth/flake pop/gloss? Budget? Are looks or durability more important? That said, from the keyboard of a man with experience; On a black car for concours, it's amazing! It's probably their best wax in terms compromise between looks and durability, however as appearance is very much subjective it's impossible to say one way or the other, and both PH Pro and BV Pro will give Hybrid a run for it's money in terms of durability... but all three would left for dead by FK1000P. Second to none? I wouldn't agree with that, personally. It's good, but it's not the pinnacle of all things wax (or hybrids, because I know someone reading this is going to bring that up!).

No glass cleaner test, no, but I can tell you what I've used and how I rate them. Megs NXT Glass Cleaner - it's okay, cleans well, but takes a bit of effort to get it streak free every time. PIAA Vision Screen Cleaner - easier to use than the Megs, cleans okay but well enough to remove lighter water spots with some elbow grease. AutoGlym Fast Glass - it's adequate but nothing special, similar to the Megs. 50Cal 20:20 (version 1 - I've got version 2, the retail version, from the branded Waxybox but not used it yet, apparently it slightly different to version 1 from a previous Waxybox) - cleans very well, the flash time is a little short (version 2 is supposed to be better though) so it's not the most economical. Does smell nice though. Autobrite Direct Hellshine Pain - excellent cleaning, good flash time, easy to get a streak free finish. Also smells quite nice. Car Chem Glass Cleaner - cheap & effective, cleans very well, perfect flash time, perfect finish every time. The only downside to this is Car Chem's flat postage rates which are excellent if you're ordering a lot from them (and there's no reason why you shouldn't... just follow the instructions to the letter with Hard Shell ) but make buying single, small items from them a bit hard to swallow. Auto Finesse Crystal - only used it once so far on fairly clean glass, so I've not really formed an opinion of this yet, but it did the job at the time. GTechniq G6 - Excellent cleaning ability, perfect flash time, perfect finish without any real effort. G6 is my 'go to', but I've also bought the full size bottles of Pain and Car Chem after trying samples, so for me it would come down to which one of those three is most readily available to you. I will offer this bit of advice though; whichever one you buy, I've found that the trigger spray heads that come with the full size bottles tend to spray too much product on the side windows, so I usually decant some into a Waxybox bottle and use it with one of those spray heads instead. Glass sealant test though, I've started one of those; http://www.350z-uk.c...40#entry1289288 and as you've asked, there is a little update to that. Basically, the PIAA has given up a couple of weeks ago now (8 weeks since it was applied, we're now on 10 weeks), there's no noticeable difference between that and the untreated areas now in either beading or sheeting but both Car Chem and G5 are still going strong. I have a couple of pictures from the last time it rained (before today) which I've not uploaded yet though, but they're essentially no different to when it was all applied as PIAA didn't bead well anyway. Also, I've currently got Nanolex Urban on my car (as mentioned somewhere in the wax test stuff, I think), which I'm very impressed with so far but just testing the durability. So far it's been quite comparable to G5 in terms of how it works - beads very well, sheets exceptionally well - and rain rolls off at speeds as low as 19/20mph. Application is much easier with a much better working time than G5 but not quite as easy as Car Chem with it not being a spray on job. Ultimately only the durability, which remains to be seen, will determine if I ever buy any more of this. Nanolex is by far the most expensive at £22 for 100ml (compared to £5, £7 & £10 for PIAA [150ml], Car Chem and G5 respectively). However if it's applied correctly you're going to be using around 3ml to do multiple layers on all the glass on a Z, whereas you'll probably end up using more than that doing 2 layers just on the windscreen alone with G5 (I'd guestimate probably 10-15ml for equivalent coverage), Car Chem quote "100ml bottle will treat at least 3 cars twice a year" (but also suggest re-applying every 6-8 weeks!) so that's 16ml - looking at what I've used from my bottle I'd say it's ~10ml though. So it may seem expensive, but it's actually not that bad in real terms. I've got a bit of Urban left, so I may do a similar durability test on a different window of the house with all four of them at some point (and because that last paragraph has got me thinking now, I'll even measure the actual usage of each product when applied to a given, measured surface area.).

I got that. I was employing reductio ad absurdum.

Ill supply the rope then, you go ahead and find yourself a nice tree. Try as I might, I've not been able to find a tree on another planet. Certainly not one within a ropes length.

I don't even want to share a planet with him/her/it.

That's basically Liverpool's grievance. They've stated that he wasn't banned from Uruguay matches when he did that in a Liverpool shirt so why should Liverpool "suffer" for something he did in a Uruguay shirt. However they're not currently appealing, the Uruguayan FA are. FIFA have clarified they will not prevent any transfer. The only question is whether anyone will be interested in paying £80m for someone who can't play until the end of October. Liverpool are too stubborn to sell him for less and they've been here before. I almost guarantee that if he does stay at Liverpool all those fans you mention will miraculously forgive and forget (again) as soon as he's scored a goal or two upon his return.

Which wasn't the question, nor an option and over a week late. Thanks for playing though.

As far as I'm aware, they're a darkly kept secret (like Volk paint codes), your best bet is to locate a McLaren authorised repairer and ask them nicely to mix you some up, but even then I'm not sure of your chances of them agreeing.

Someone elsewhere has mentioned that the Car Chem Hard Shell beading didn't look particularly good in the previous photos. As I was taking new pics for them I thought I might as well share them here too. So this is Hard Shell A comparison to the Poorboys combination on the panel below; Okay, it doesn't sheet as well as the Poorboys (which was the best sheeter on the bonnet), but I think it beads quite well. I've also been playing with Nanolex Textile & Leather Sealant which was, for the most part, bought for the fabric seats in the Impreza and the SEAT and it's impressed me in those applications but I've also been playing with other uses for it. Such as a pair of cheap trainers, for example; 50/50 - left side treated, right side not. And this one's completely treated. No more wet feet. In keeping with the beading theme, I've also been playing Dr Beasley's Leather Lock so I even have some leather beading; I'm just including this last photo because it doesn't have any beading. Or much relevance to this thread, but mainly the no beads thing.

I've just remembered that With now constituting "later", and I do love a good beading picture, I finally have some for you. So, without further ado, Nanolex Nanowax beading porn;

Good work, Mikey.

Knock/detonation.

As a complete an utter guess here, I suspect the first thought for the headlight washers not working would be the fuse, but tester's aren't permitted to remove parts during the test, so with there being a fusebox hidden beyond the battery cover... Wild stab in the dark maybe, but that'd be my first guess.

I blame people.

Bird lime is very acidic and will etch the paint given enough time, sadly. If it's left a mark, you'll most likely find that it will need polishing out. A decent LSP, kept topped up, should reduce the risk of it making it through to the paint though. Using APC, I'd use it closer to 10-15% myself as 50% will often be enough to weaken your LSP, IMO. Just imagine the state of all those cars with no protection on and the owners leave it months between washes!

For fresh "gifts from above", I tend to just water (the warmer the better if at all possible) through an adjustable trigger spray head so you can adjust from a jet to get most of it off to more of a fine mist to "rinse" the general area. If it's been on the paint for longer though it usually needs to soak for a minute or two first. Failing that, any QD or waterless wash should suffice with a soft microfibre - I know both CG Speed Wipe and Eco Touch Waterless both work okay. Again it's best to soak it for a minute before wiping it away. Depending on which QD you use, you're likely to add a bit of protection if anything, so perfectly wax safe.

Cheers chaps.

What you need is a Roadster. You should just me your current Z, it'll never sell after all, but I'm willing to take it off your hands. I'm just that thoughtful, you see. I also know nothing about bikes, I so I have nothing constructive to add Looks good though.

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-luxury-drying-towel-cat5.html Or basically any microfibre that's over 800gsm would do the job.

Good work, it looks well.

You're not the only one. Cheers. He says 535's are slightly out of his budget though (10k). He's also turned his nose up at the 5 series as it "looks too boring" apparently. Just looks like a scaled up version of the 3 series he's looking at, to me though.

Cheers Ricey, I'll get him to look into that.

Couldn't tell you. It sounds like a daft idea the way it's been explained to me, but I'm assuming the those that have signed off on it so far are partial to some more details than have been released so far. Still, it can't be as bad as Bernie's sprinkler idea... can it?!?

Why thank you very much. There's marginal difference, at best, between some of them in the flesh - FK & Hard Shell, for example, are a little more glossy and the flake pop is more prominent and vibrant than the others whilst Poorboys give a slightly darker, deeper, wetter look but the flake is more muted. It's more noticeable in certain light than others but even then there's really not a great deal of difference. The panels with Poorboys Red & Blue layered seems to offer a closer level of gloss the the layered FK's but still maintain the depth and the flake is slightly more muted still - although still very noticeable. Funny you should say that, there should have been two more on the list. I had been working with someone to produce an ilogikal1 custom wax and we had two different formulas lined up but after some considerable faffing about and sorting out issues and whatnot over the course of the last 7/8 months, it finally just fell through altogether and I've been let down in a big way. That's largely why I resorted to panels with Poorboys being layered as my back up plan.