Mack

Bump, still looking for a set of Rays.

Hello, Im looking for a set of 350z rays. Must be straight and in reasonable condition. Colour, cosmetic appearance and tyres not important. Looking to pay up to £300. Im based near Bishops Stortford.

See THIS is the kind of info you need from the forums/Haynes manual! How easy is it for the driveshaft to come out? Is it just a case of be careful or is it likely to come out? Mine is lowered at the rear, quite a bit. Not because it looks like a slammed sick ting innit blud, but because I had to replace a rotten torsion bar in the past, and garage quoted me cheaper to just fit an entire spare rear axle they had lying around, which had already been lowered. I think these 25mm lowering springs will make it fairly even. As for the brake bias valve, never had a problem so far, even with a lowered rear and standard front.. ha ha. Maybe its because I took the spare wheel and bracket off! Thanks for the tip though. It is a thoroughly satisfying job to do, and after doing a few more bits on the Saxo I will endeavour to do some simple ones on the 350Z. The problem is, I don't drive the Saxo very far or very fast so I'm not too worried. I'd at least like someone to sue if some untightened bolt decides to spontaneously go on holiday when I'm on the autobahn in the 350z! As for next steps, I will definitely do a few small bits just to get the Saxo in decent running condition. There are some other 'overdue' items that aren't quite as serious as the suspension. After that who knows... can't decide whether to flog it for a few hundred quid (black VTRs seem to hold value a little), or start doing some serious work on it and turn it into a track car. The problem is in a few months, once moved into a flat, I will have no need for a dog car/train station runabout and will only have the one parking space, which will obviously be for the Zed. However, keeping it at a friend's house or family member's garage could potentially be an option. Some people on here may scoff at the idea of a Saxo track car, but at the end of the day if you strip it you have a sub 900kg car, where even the upgrade parts are cheap. And you won't be forking out mega money on brakes and tyres. It will also give me an excuse to do some proper mechanical work to it! Yes its front wheel drive, but I'm sure there's a diff out there for it that will help and it will be a fun, low powered car to learn with and get more trackdays under my belt. The drive shaft will just pull out. Without a cir clip theres nothin holding it in place. I did many a track day in mine, the odd sprint and auto test's. Once I had changed the discs and pads all round it worked quite well. They do tend to overheat a bit, probably requires an oil cooler or rad upgrade but I never had any brake fade problems. One handing trait I noticed, particularly as mine did not have any ABS was when braking on the absolute limit of grip the left front would lock first causing the car to yaw right. It was controllable with a bit of steering. I believe its due to the car being designed to have the driver on the left. The heavier engine is on the right and the gear box on the left. Put the driver on the right as well and theres more weight over the right hand wheels. I never had the car corner weighted to prove this but I believe its true.

See THIS is the kind of info you need from the forums/Haynes manual! How easy is it for the driveshaft to come out? Is it just a case of be careful or is it likely to come out? Mine is lowered at the rear, quite a bit. Not because it looks like a slammed sick ting innit blud, but because I had to replace a rotten torsion bar in the past, and garage quoted me cheaper to just fit an entire spare rear axle they had lying around, which had already been lowered. I think these 25mm lowering springs will make it fairly even. As for the brake bias valve, never had a problem so far, even with a lowered rear and standard front.. ha ha. Maybe its because I took the spare wheel and bracket off! Thanks for the tip though. It is a thoroughly satisfying job to do, and after doing a few more bits on the Saxo I will endeavour to do some simple ones on the 350Z. The problem is, I don't drive the Saxo very far or very fast so I'm not too worried. I'd at least like someone to sue if some untightened bolt decides to spontaneously go on holiday when I'm on the autobahn in the 350z! As for next steps, I will definitely do a few small bits just to get the Saxo in decent running condition. There are some other 'overdue' items that aren't quite as serious as the suspension. After that who knows... can't decide whether to flog it for a few hundred quid (black VTRs seem to hold value a little), or start doing some serious work on it and turn it into a track car. The problem is in a few months, once moved into a flat, I will have no need for a dog car/train station runabout and will only have the one parking space, which will obviously be for the Zed. However, keeping it at a friend's house or family member's garage could potentially be an option. Some people on here may scoff at the idea of a Saxo track car, but at the end of the day if you strip it you have a sub 900kg car, where even the upgrade parts are cheap. And you won't be forking out mega money on brakes and tyres. It will also give me an excuse to do some proper mechanical work to it! Yes its front wheel drive, but I'm sure there's a diff out there for it that will help and it will be a fun, low powered car to learn with and get more trackdays under my belt. The drive shaft will just pull out. Without a cir clip theres nothin holding it in place. I did many a track day in mine, the odd sprint and autotest's. Once I had changed the discs and pads all round it worked quote well.

Im interested in the wheels. How much do they weight?

Like a trip down memory lane reading this. I did the exact same work about 8 years ago on my old VTR. I still have the pipe wrench, used only once! When you do the other side beware there is no cir clip on the drive shafts. If you pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox it will **** gearbox oil all over the floor. I found that out the hard way! I don't know if yours is lowered already. If not then you have to adjust the torsion bars. They can be an absolute pig. Beware the bolts for the rear anti roll bar tend to snap when you try and undo them. There is also a brake bias valve that needs to be adjusted otherwise the brakes think the car is loaded heavily at the rear and you'll be locking up the rear wheels every time you come to a stop. Nice work by the way.

I lived there for 18 months. A friend of mine parked his brand new 7 series outside a Cafe. In the time it took me to drink a coffee it was bumped front and rear.

Ill take them posted.

Had my windscreen changed a while back via my insurance. Ive got the hard top. First guy they sent down broke the window even more and then left without replacing it saying he was missing a piece of trim. Second guy was spot on. There's no sign its been replaced, looks perfect.

Never once overheated the Z drifting, not even in the summer. Monstered my OEM clutch and flywheel, but the gearbox is fine There's a few of us on here who are partial to drifting, myself, Stevo D, Bizz and Docwra to name a few. The Z is amazing out of the box. A small video of me last week Not perfect by any means, but I was pretty happy Nicely done mate!

Thanks

Can you provide the rough dimensions and weights of the back box and centre pipe?

Zero, never had a single point on my licence.

I think we will end up going back to requiring third party immobilisers just to get insured, the other option is to physically remove or block the OBD2 port. Whosever what's really terrifying is what hackers have achieved by hacking a moving car. http://www.forbes.com/sites/andygreenberg/2013/07/24/hackers-reveal-nasty-new-car-attacks-with-me-behind-the-wheel-video/

£150 posted? Payment today.

If it had the tommy k style z badge on the back that's me. I've seen a azure one a number of times heading out of town past the golf club.

Do the magnetic sump plugs need a crush washer? If so is it the standard size?

Is the standard one non-magnetic?

A bit of googling will find you a tyre calculator which takes care of all the maths. There some phone apps as well. Its a pain in the arse because the wheel size is in inches, the tread width is in millimetres and the tyre profile is a percentage of the tread width. Personally I run 245/40/18 on the front and 265/40/18 on the rear with no traction control problems.

Im getting close to fitting my oil cooler and sump spacer ready for some track days. Doing an oil change at the same time naturally, can any traders quote for a HKS oil filter?

Good to hear someone's finding this info usefull. As Toon Chris said you have the classic symptoms. If you take a look at the recall for the American cars intermittent failure when the sensor is hot is a key sign. Let us know how you get on. The recall: The engine may stall at times due to a failed crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor, These sensors can fail intermittently as they warm with the engine. Sensors on certain models have been recalled by Nissan and will be replaced as necessary. Please visit our recall section for this model to see if your vehicle is covered by this recall

2 to 3 rear sets. I guess as I get better it will be more Mines almost standard, just polybushed compression rods and and anti roll bars. It drifts nicely, just turn off the traction control. I can still feel the stability control grabbing the brakes but Ive found a way to disable it for next time. The car does heat the oil, drift it for a few mins then take it for a steady drive in high gear to cool down. When parked pop the bonnet to let the heat escape. Around £65 + tyres and fuel. At santa pod there is a guy who will rent wheels with part worn tyres for £20 per set of rear tyres. He will also fit tyres for a few quid. He really has his work cut out, he must do 200 tyres in a day. Otherwise go down to your local tyre place and get the old worn tyres for next to nothing. Thanks Bizz, Im a complete beginner but its great fun, some selective video editing kept out the mistakes. A 350z drift day is a brilliant idea, maybe attach it to one of the meets? If you have the contacts I'm in. Due to other stuff I haven't been able to make it back, but I plan to do so. Ive got an oil cooler and a sump spacer when I get around to fitting them.

Im glad it helped! If anyone has any feedback or better ways or getting this done post them up and I will update the guide

http://www.importtuner.com/features/impp_1006_350z_vs_370z/viewall.html Read this article a while back about preparing a 350z roadster for time attack. Unfortunately the harmonic weights are only on the roadster but they mention removing the reinforcements for the rear seat belts, a hang over from the common model Skyline. Not sure how much it would save / if it's wise.

I guess the key part of Jez's statement is high load. Putting the foot to the floor at less than 2500 RPM. I've heard cars detonating when people try to move off at very low RPM.