Mack

Fingers crossed. Swap the r for an n?

Just had a problem getting the car to start. Ive recently only been doing short journeys in the car, some days less than a mile. Car wouldn't crank, clicking from the starter, battery showing 10v (checked with a meter), doors sluggish to unlock. Got a bump start, ran the car for a good 20 mins. Started fine the following time and again ran it for a good 20 mins. This morning again showing 10v. I attempted a parasitic draw test but got a wandering reading. Jump started the car and ran it down the local ATS. They conducted a battery and an alternator test and concluded it was the battery. The alternator test is showing 14.43V under load (all car electrics, heaters etc on, only jump started 15 mins before) however it is also showing "Ripple too big." They gave me a copy of the test and told me its not an issue so I've taken there word on it and got a new battery. Does this sound right? Mack

Mine felt a bit like yours when I first got it. Compression rod bushes and decent tyres fixed it for me. I doubt its your tyres, you can check the compression rod bushes by jacking up the car and removing the front brace. I could see mine where ripped in places. As long as the ball joints on the end are fine you can just change the bushes for poly. I have the superpro ones on mine. EDIT: +1 on the alignment check as well, but take a look at the compression rod bushes first.

If you go the easy out route be very careful or get a professional to do it. They are more brittle than they appear, I've snapped one off before and its a nightmare to drill out the remains.

Where are you based?

Thanks for the recommendations, I will look into them.

Airline Pilot for a well known low cost airline. Not the career it used to be but not bad either.

Ive recently had someone back into the left hand side of my 350z damaging the door and the rear quarter panel. Im insured through Chaucer via Sky Insurance and they have been good. The other side accepted liability and they got me booked in for an estimate. However the repairers are unable to get hold of a door skin from Nissan to complete the repair. Its currently on back order with no estimate to when it will be available. Im looking for a good bodyshop preferably near Stansted to complete the repair. Can anyone give me some recommendations?

"If he says its a flawless/floorless finish I'm going to tape his bloody mouth shut" Lol

I'm interested Bennet, let me know if it falls through.

Just look on eBay for the grommets. Any 22mm and 25mm blank grommets should do fine. Any decent Silicone sealant will do.

Welded diffs and stretched tyres init! +40BHP from the K&N.

Nothing wrong with a good rant

Good stuff mate! Be aware of one thing. I tried to run a go pro camera at Snetterton inside the car. I got pulled by the marshals because I was trying to mount it with a sucker cup or the go pro sticky on the windscreen. They wanted it clamped in a solid way in case of roll over. The passenger seat headrest might do it. Enjoy your day!

Fair enough, I've edited my post. I personally like to push hard.

Brake discs dont warp, they sometimes pick up deposits which are impossible to see though. Generally a proper bit of heavy braking will sort them out so if they are a bit wobbly to start with just push through it. Any metal will expand with enough heat. If the disc is not a floating design it will warp. The discs were shot. I had a look before I went but didn't check the inside. The insides of both front and rear where worn. Why? Ive done 15+ days on everything from Anglesey to Spa and not had a problem. Good for you, take a look here http://www.350z-uk.c...ld#entry1167694 The after picture has been removed but the calliper changed colour. My guess is that takes some serious heat. Why not extra ducting? Its very cheap and might just save you from brake fade at the worst moment. What brake pads/disc were you using? not all are created equal. Oil cooler - not needed unless you are drifting, and cool down lap just needs to be not maximum attack, high gears or going really slowly arent anything to worry about - its more for the brakes than the engine anyway You have just repeated what I said. What oil temperature are you getting? what was the ambient temperature? again an oil cooler is not expensive if you plan to do many track days. I wouldnt rush out and buy matching tyres just for a trackday TBH Mixing brands front and rear is not even recommended for road driving! especially in the wet. Just get some part worns if they don't match. My main advice - dont worry. At the end of the day its not much different from a spirited drive on an A road, yes its harder on the brakes but its not like youre entering a 6 hour endurance race. Go steady to start with, dont try to race anyone and gradually build your speed up while remaining comfortable with it and before you know it you'll be hossing round like an old hand. The best bit of advice I ever got given youre the only person driving the car, if you crash or lose it its because YOU were pushing too hard, and YOU need to be the one to realise that.

Ive done 2 track days at Snetteron in my almost standard Zed. Heres my 2 cents: General: Driving on a track is far more intense on the car than road driving. It will highlight any problems with your car. If I could test drive a car on a track I would. I used to track day a Saxo VTR once a month. I discovered a faulty rear damper on Debtors Dip at Kirkistown, Northern Ireland by having the back snap out at 100MPH and skidding backwards across the grass at 80MPH. It was interesting! Therefore I advise you build your speed slowly. I highly recommend your do it however! Take advantage of the driving instruction. Its well worth it. Brakes: As others have pointed out the weak point on the Zed. Check your discs and pads from and rear. Specifically check the inside of disc and the inside pad as they tend to wear more than the outside. I found my front discs where shot, as the expanded under the heat they warped causing vibrations under braking. Not confidence inspiring at 120MPH! Braided lines and uprated fluid are a cheap and reasonably easy upgrade. Extra ducting is worth considering. Beware when leaving the circuit as the fluid will still be hot. You may find you need to brake considerably harder when driving at normal speeds. When the fluid cools its no longer a problem. A Spare set of brake pads is worth considering. Do not apply the handbrake after a driving session, leave it in gear. You can weld the rear pads to the hot disc. Oil: Another weak point of the zed is it does heat the oil. There is an oil to coolant oil cooler installed but a proper oil cooler is worth considering. I would limit hard laps to say five in a row followed by a cool down lap driving in a high gear. After you stop pop your bonnet to allow the heat to escape. Tyres: The single most important item for track days. Don't mix brands front and rear. Get a tyre pressure gauge, you will find as your tyres heat the pressure rises dramatically. You will need to let out some air and top it up after the track day. Other: Bringing a Go Pro camera is a great way to record your day but it must be mounted securely or the Marshall's won't let you out. Unfortunately the Zed interior doesn't have many good points.

Something that might interest Mac owners. I've got a 13 MacBook Air and I'm mostly very happy with it. One really annoying thing is the start up sound. It plays at the volume set at shutdown and can't be disabled. Turn it on while people are asleep it will wake the house. To stop it you can mute the sound before shut or alternatively use a program called start ninja which does it automatically. It's free and also works with the FileVault 2 WDE as well. http://www.allvu.com/index.php/sndownloadpage.html Hope someone finds it useful.

Good idea to sell it on here, for postage you can use parcel2go.com. Just measure it, weight on the bathroom scales or guess against bags of sugar. Its very easy to do. There's often someone reverting to standard to sell.

Interesting you say this because shes now borrowing her dads old Mk1 micra to toddle about in Don't suppose anyone knows anything more about this, sounds like it would be right up our street. Ed You probably don't want to see this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxdW4HwX_rk&feature=youtu.be&t=15s

Sorry to hear about your car and good to hear your missus is ok. Its a heavy car but I've always thought of it being a solid car. I would much rather have a wack in my Zed than my old Mk1 Micra.

Fair play for offering a good deal to someone! Im sure someone who's rounded or damaged the bleed nipple will take this off you.

pm sent

Thanks for the Reply Nissan Nutter, Do you have any photos?

Ive got tyres already, really just looking for a set of wheels. If the tyres are new have you considered selling the wheels and tyres seperately?