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ChrisB

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Everything posted by ChrisB

  1. This isn't bad... Checked about 20 of the 34 pages - sorry if
  2. Is what these IS 'tards doing really freedom fighting? They appear to be terrorising in the name of a harsh tyranical version of faith based politics - not freedom. They also seek virtual reward in 72 virgins (and thus regarding oppressed virgins as chattel - womens rights in places like Saudi or worse are known to be often appalling). I'd class the following as freedom fighting: http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/jan/09/saudi-blogger-first-lashes-raif-badawi
  3. Ahhh damn.. Has Nismo replica V2 front and chargespeed rear on Rota GTRs been done before then? Shame, 'cos that combi appears to be my favourite and I'm half way there already ;) Black car ^^ looks nice too
  4. Oh dear. It looks like further modding and a long awaited paint refurb is going to have to wait.. Whilst we were watching our broken old dog like a hawk, the other good old dog suddenly almost died. Turns out he had a spleen the size of a football and managed to rupture it on Saturday.. Zero symptoms up till then.. He's had emergency surgical treatment and is now home, but we will wait for tests to see what the prognosis is Here's hoping
  5. PS2 are wicked (I have them in 275 on the rear). PS3 are something different, not in a good way I believe. MPSS are wicked too, some would say wickedest (I have them in 245 on the front)
  6. I'm 90% sure Gareth/Granville/Graeme GMBallistic posted a link to finishers recently. He is the google guru on here. Can't remember which thread though. Bung him a pm maybe?
  7. Nice looking Zed that - obviously been pampered in it's life Certainly there is nothing at all wrong with highish milers if they have upgrades added and good servicing in their lives
  8. Just the knob. My finisher is a Richbrook finisher thingy. There are other finishers - and/or combined with the old ziptie the boot to the gearstick trick (I ziptied to the bottom of my finisher). I just use a finisher as I think the boot is a bit baggy without it - and needed something like it with my previous shaftless ball knob. Styles may vary
  9. Which one did you get Chris? Neo Chrome. Nice in the flesh, heavy, with a good chunky feel and
  10. Good care being applied If you don't already know, rather than using Nissan for OEM fluids, a lot of us use forum traders Clark Motorsports and Zmanalex They do mail order for less money - although holiday week crimps that a bit
  11. My Chrimble pressie to Precious was a new knob.. The old China eBay knob was getting a bit pitted (but it has to be said hasn't been bad for £20 considering other titanium effect balls go for $70 ! ) Got a nicer Blox Limited Neo Chrome from Sportz. I'm keeping the old finisher for now. Shiny oily petrol blue might not be to every one's taste (love it personally), but I also quite like the infamous Gold wrapped R8 (innit) in another thread (all be it without the stripes) - so clearly I'm no arbiter of style :lol: My independent car monitor side project hasn't progressed *that* far yet, although when the weather is better, I'll start fitting. Gentle winter driving is the order of the day up to then. All the wiring from the sensors will be installed in the car via the firewall grommet leading to a big D plug. The D socket then connects to the micro controller, allowing for easy development. The mini TFT display will also be installed via the plug. Power will come from an extra fused supply, with series diodes to give polarity protection and a small voltage drop to be kinder to the regulator. Sensors are twin wideband AFR, MAP for boost/vacuum, oil temp via the port on the oil cooler sandwich plate, fuel pressure via the port on the Aeromotive FPR, extra IAT via a hole in the Vortech intake - TBD - and extra coolant temp, probably a via port coupling added to the top rad hose. I am happy with OEM gauges for other things. Here is the Arduino Due micro controller with a veroboard 'shield' containing all the requisite resistors to form potential dividers with the sensors. I'm using 1% tolerance types (on the other side of the vero), so easily as accurate as anything off the shelf. I have full maps for non-linear and linear sensors, and have written code to convert these to real values. I will be making use of coloured numerics (and possibly trigger some kind of alarm) if any parameters go out of spec. There are plenty of options for active checking here. For a bit of bling I display a Japanese rising sun on startup
  12. ^^ What they said. Non OEM solid flys transmit vibration and make the drive train rattley / thrashy. Non OEM upgrade (eg stage 2 CC*) are grabby and a nightmare in stop-start traffic (impossible to feather smoothly). However, IMHO the benefits of non-OEM are there in normal or spirited driving, and possibly longevity. Attempting to remove all noise is slightly the tail wagging the dog with respect to performance upgrades - you have to live with the foibles. Else if you want a quiet cruiser, stick with fully OEM** * I speak from the stand point of owning Competition Clutch's 2100 stage 2 clutch and ST solid fly, Technafit stainless line and OEM replacement slave with RBF660 fluid, having previously been fully OEM. Apparently, masters rarely fail. ** Never owned a LUK DMF - can't comment there, but this is an alternate DMF.
  13. I concur with this. My V3 doesn't rattle at all, but my car idles around the 1000 mark. There is always belt/pully/gear whine however, as you'd expect.
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