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If you look in the manual it seems they aren't fussed what oil you put in, just specifies mineral not even S/S. I now use 5w30 fully synth as it only costs fractionally more than 5w30 semi synth which I've used in the past. I wouldn't put Wilko's own brand oil in, but if you are buying yourself then a decent brand is as cheap as anything else, think I paid £25 for the last lot of 6 litres Fuchs Titan XTR 5w30 fully synth from Opie oils.

Common problem, try this first: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=60165 If that doesn't fix then replace the CV joint -

They are HEAVY actually - the body is all thick gauge stainless steel. Thats why they aren't very fast. Totally awesome though IMO. "Whats with the life preserver?"

I call April fool. No way that battery can generate the required 1.21 gigawatts, no way. I reckon you'd need a nuclear reaction or a bolt of lightning to generate that kind of power.

Was this a cat c or d? Looks like you are doing a great job, good idea to document the process for future buyers! Looks a bit like mine which was damaged 4 years ago, literally only needed a rear 1/4.

3

Well tonight I pulled all the trim out of the boot to get to the amp! Loads of space in there without all that trim! I removed the amp, and took the lid off it to have a look for blown capacitors or fuses. All seemed fine so I put it back together (redistributed the heatsink compound). Plugged it back in and everything worked fine! Ah well, I'm not sure if me taking the amp apart did anything or if it was just a bad connection on the plugs, but its now fixed, for the first time in 2 months I have a radio

Hi Lee, Pretty soon after I posted the above I got no sound whatsoever, not just intermittent, no music comes out of any speaker whether on CD, tape or radio. I finally got around to pulling my BOSE out last night to investigate this. I followed the guide to disassemble the unit and re-seat all ribbon cables in the headunit - I didn't think it was this anyway as my problem happens on all radio modes - from searching the ribbon problem seems to be usually just if it happens on CD. As soon as I turn the ignition on (radio off) I have a feint "pulse" noise through the speakers - turn the radio on and the pulse stays and doesn't change. As this pulse noise happens only when the amp is turned on (my ignition) and whether the radio is on or off, I suspect my Bose Amp in the boot is duff. I've googled and googled but all I can find in common issues are problems with a relay in the sub amp - however as all speakers are affected I suspect my main boot amp is at fault. Do you have used spare bose boot amp units so I can try this? Cheers!

you cant You can.... but the Z isn't type approved for towing in the EU so its illegal here. Fine in the US though: http://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-in ... -code.html If you want one, you want a "Curt 11493" and they are £161 inc delivery and UK import duty / VAT from rockauto.com I've been pondering one to fit a bike rack. Even do they for the 370Z: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-gene ... ion-3.html Apologies if i've offended your eyes with this post!

Do you have a pic showing what to look for by any chance?

I had this - it was the front ARB droplinks in the end. Both mine "looked" fine and no play or noise from me swinging on them. You can inspect your banana bar bushes for cracks / separation with the car in the air to rule them out. OE Banana bushes not officially sold separately in the UK - you have to buy the whole arm. Circle Infiniti in Texas will send you the bush much cheaper than you can get them anywhere else. They are the same part for a G35. Likewise I bought my (non genuine) droplinks from rockauto.com in the states much cheaper than any here.

Still after a standard system if anyones got one?

bit late for you but http://www.raileasy.co.uk/ for cheapest train tickets.

How much do you want for it? A low mileage run about with all that work done to it, ready to go. The best used motors are those that someone has serviced religiously, and just spent a load on and is disheartened with it so punts it on I'd keep it for another 8 months at least if I were you to get some value for money.

For me its not about how heavy the clutch is.... its about the really short engagement window on pre-facelift cars as tricky-ricky says - the heaviness only compounds the problem. Although it is pretty heavy, nowhere near as bad as some bangers I've had with knackered clutch cables Some people get on with and some people just can't. I let a mate drive my Z and he jumped in and drove it away smoothly immediately and actually said he preferred it. I go between the Z and an 06 Golf and every time I've been driving the golf and then go to the Z I'm jerking down the road till I get used to it again. Perhaps my clutch is worn, but it never slips and the other similar age Zs I tried pre purchase were the same. I've driven all kinds of cars and only the 350Zs have been like this. I'm going to try this mod when the weather warms up a bit.

I know the OE bose is pretty unreliable and theres lots of threads about it. However using the search I haven't found this exact issue: Jumped in one cold morning and fire the car up, no sound from the stereo. It looks to be playing to itself, CD counting up, radio showing RDS and tape deck works, just no sound whatsoever for the entirety of the journey. Few hours later get in the car again and it works perfectly. Next day doesn't work again. There is not even the very quiet "static" noise coming out of the speaker that I usually get when the stereo is off. Does the system have a separate amplifier somewhere - perhaps this is not turning on sometimes? Otherwise could it be a connection in the headunit? Whewre to look first? Any help much appreciated. I don't want an aftermarket stereo although thats probably the easiest option.

Because my 350z is a road car and I'm not chasing tenths on the daily commute . The tyres don't make it any less fun to schlep around Oulton park either. The money I saved pays for a couple of trackdays, or half a cheap holiday... Which model maxxis are they?

I had bridgestones on my car when I got it, then a set of nearly new Federal SS595, and now Maxxis MA-Z1 all round on Rays. There is a "Drift" variant of the MA-Z1 which is not as good as a road tyre as the "standard" MA-Z1, unfortunately it was the Drift variant which autoexpress tested (and it still rated it above some premium contenders): http://www.maxxis.co.uk/news/maxxis-res ... press-test The Federals were OK, but overheated quickly on track and not brilliant in the wet. Nowhere near as bad as Sunway ditchfinders, but they are cheap. On road in the dry I cannot tell the difference between bridgestone and ma-z1 - perhaps they are a little noisier. In the wet I have to be quite aggressive to have the TCS light flash, perhaps the threshold is a little below bridgestones. On track the Maxxis seem to overheat faster than Bridgestones, and you can feel the softer sidewall flex leading to the car moving around a bit more. I'd say as a budget road tyre they are great value, when you consider how much cheaper they are than the money no object choices like Vreds or re3050s, it made sense to me.

You are allowed to use 2500 litres a year SVO tax free. If you use more you should pay tax on all you use. http://www.vegoilmotoring.com/eng/legal-stuff

You got your from that 2fast something or other seller on ebay didnt you? I just got one cheap from them too. Had it fitted last week but was well out of shape originally. Hangs a bit low still now. They told me the exact same thing about the 6months different exhaust rubbish. Mines a 54plate Decemeber 2004. Got them to refund me £20 towards having it adjusted. Better than nothing,lol yep!

yes - did yours? Also did the pedal assembly come out of your RHD car much like the instructions on the american site?

Sorry I worded that badly: I meant to say that rebuilding and greasing the pivot with lighten the pedal somewhat. Then your suggested mod will increase the engagement window (and lighten further). Whats your pedal like now? Is it possible to do really smooth shifts - mine are always a little jerky

Do you have a link to the US forum page? This is interesting. First step is to grease the pivot up which might make it a little lighter. This mod will increase the distance over which engagement occurs.

I just replaced mine for the same reason. My back box had been welded around the flange previously. This time both the flange on the back box and the middle pipe had corroded badly so I needed both. Rather than pay someone to cut the flange out and weld it up I took a punt on one of these auctions by seller 2fast2cool: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350522925849#ht_835wt_1165 Got mine for £150 delivered. Turns out its a JapSpeed which are normally £350 BUT they have known fitment issues and mine sits a bit wonky. I will perhaps get someone to sort it out when I do the y pipe and cats which aren't too far behind by the looks of them! Sound is not any different to standard really, its a little boomier at low speed accelerating in high gears (say pootling from 25mph in 5th).

I'd be pretty upset if I'd paid £350 for this fitment. At the £140 I paid its vaguely acceptable.