Sam Mcgoo

How do you know it was a golf ball and not mighty mouse making a speedy exit?? Bad luck mate. On the bright side, it could have hit your roof and that would be much worse.

Not too bad. What size injectors are you running? Also just out of interest what did the trip comp say you were getting mpg? The trip computer can't be scaled to suit new injectors so the figures are totally irrelevant. Mine usually says 40 - 50 mpg when I'm actually getting 18 - 24mpg

They look really good. Good to see a nice shiny silver wheel. Glad I'm not the only one.

Welcome to the club.

Yep, engine needs to be running to adjust fuel pressure. Also, you do know you can cut that bolt down to the required length with a hacksaw. Lol

RIP sparky, so young, what can I say. Sad news. Thoughts are with you Amy, family and friends.

Nice Zed, but would definitely look better with wheels and tyres that fit.

The cats/o2 sensors could be on the way out, but this is a fairly common problem especially when it is very cold. It is not a code that will do any harm to your engine, so don't worry about that. You can read / reset the codes yourself to save yourself some cash. 1. Buy yourself a cheap OBD2 reader from ebay (about £20) or a bluetooth one and get an app for your android phone called 'Torque' (I think there is a similar Apple app) 2. Do the 'Peddle dance' as follows: Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON†and wait 3 seconds. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds: Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). Fully release the accelerator pedal. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) Wait about 10 seconds. - Count the flashing lights now- this is the code. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). Turn ignition switch to “OFF†position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. There is a full guide in the guides section on here. If you want to try oem cats, PM zmanalex as I'm sure he'll have some good used ones for a good price. Or, use it as an excuse to buy the HFC and get a uprev to reap the benefits.

There are a few threads like this in the Fi section, have a read through them. My350.com is very usefull for Fi information as hundreds of people have done it on that forum. If you want Big power then you'll have to go turbo and to make it worth it will have to build the engine. = lots £ If you want a reliable 400hp on a stock engine supercharger is the way to go. Not in Suffolk, but I would advise a chat with Mark at Abbey Motorsport. There's nothing they haven't done to a zed. If you don't want to do it yourself I recommend using them. I travel from Norfolk for my tuning there.

Don't forget Livingston warman on here, mods are not a problem.

Sorry I missed this, happy birthday Colin, sounds like you had a good weekend. Just to echo what others have said, a credit to the club and made me feel very welcome at my first Wales meet in 2011.

Na it was RHD and it's now in my car :grin:

Welcome to the club.

Welcome to the club.

+1 Proof of regular oil changes (not necessarily dealer) , use of premium fuel (hard to prove i know) and good general condition all round. I use the same criteria with the opposite sex

+1 Proof of regular oil changes (not necessarily dealer) , use of premium fuel (hard to prove i know) and good general condition all round.

Welcome to the club. Nice looking Zed. Sounds like your on driftworks, you planning on drifting it then?

P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1 The O2 sensors have different codes to that. But a faulty sensor could possibly give that indication. Running lean, isn't a good thing so Don't drive hard until this is sorted as detonation could occur and cause damage. If it was me, I would jack the car up, disconnect and swap the two front O2 sensors over, the ones nearest the engine. (The rear sensors shouldn't influence this fault) Take the one from the passenger side and put it in the drivers side and vise verse then re-connect in the new position. Reset the error codes and try again. If it still says 'bank 1' and not 'Bank 2' then you know its not the sensors. If it still shows the fault, it could be as simple as an exhaust leak before the sensor on the manifold sucking in some air, or more serious like a fueling problem on bank one such as a dirty or sticky injector. Let us know how you get on.

The general view of late is that you won't get much better than Michelin Pilot Super Sport . If I was buying right now, that's what I would get. Just a few post about the subject of tyre choice. If you type 'tyre' into the search bar in the top right corner of page. Here is the biggest one containing many opinions on tyre choice. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/5174-tyre-guide-post-your-tyre-review-here/page__hl__tyre__st__380 Search Michelin and you get - http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/68742-first-impressions-of-mich-super-sports/page__hl__michelin

Welcome to the club.

Welcome to the club.

Thought that might be the case. Not worth the extra money, just to have it put a light on on the dash. The standard AEM AFR gauge is a well proven unit, so a good choice.

Na, the UEGO. The fail safe sound interesting, have you asked your tuner how well it would integrate into your setup regarding whether you can actually utilise the fail safe function?

AEM here too.

That's exactly what I said. If the tune is good and there are no other issues it will be ok. If the tune is poor or there are any other issues it won't be ok. YOU need to make the decision whether to do it or not using the information and advise you've received. No one else will do it for you.