Sam Mcgoo

Welcome to the club, I'll keep an eye on the build thread. A few people drifting these now

Welcome to the club. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Really not my cup of tea ... ...but very much looking forward to seeing the Supra.

Welcome to the club.

Looks good. I loved my N/a manual 2+2 had it for 7 years. The SWB is the one to have though (if you don't need the seats or the T-bar)

My ears burning? Cheers....I think... PM replied to. No problem Dan. It'd be a sad, boring life if we all liked the same thing! Subtle Dave. To be honest, I don't like them from some angles.....but I do prefer them to the OEM ones. For info...Mine aren't tinted or carbon look. Looks like they have SAE numbers on (assume thats some sort US standards thing??) and I've never had any bother come MOT time at several different stations.

1/4 turn anti-clockwise and a gentle pull/wiggle.

Looks good to me, says it had a rebuild 5k ago. Lots of good extras too. Get it bought.......

I run fuchs titan pro s 5w 40 in mine. Was recommended to me by oilman for my supercharged zed. I also used to use it in my TT Supra. Its good stuff. I've had it as hot as 138C (accidently) without issue.

No. 1, have you reset the light? Do you have decats, high flow cats or standard cats? Invidia exhaust is cat back, it shouldn't effect it but increased flow may have contributed to a cat warning. No 2= get under there and have a look, shake, feel, poke and bang. No. 3 = worn clutch. Need a new one.

No. 3 = worn clutch. Need a new one.

Not a mapper, but I'm pretty sure if anything it'll run a little rich, which is safer than lean. I'm sure someone in the know will come along soon.

Did someone call? Hmm, I'm 50/50 at the moment, I'm moving house tomorrow and the wife thinks appliances and furniture is more important than car parts .... but a good price might sway me Put me down as a maybe for a - V1 Polished. Adrian, are you a salesman? You seem to be very good at getting people to part with money.

Welcome to the club

Welcome

Welcome to the club.

As Alex and Kev T has said, if you are going to track a 370z you should fit an oil cooler. High oil temps are a know issue with them when pushing along. I don't know the spec of the OEM oil in your 370, but I would suggest putting something in that is track proven and can handle higher temps. I use Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W-40 can be found here - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx It is fine for daily use as well. You would need a thermostatic valve to ensure your oil got up to temperature for normal use as oil thats too cool is as bad as too hot in the long run. I have a supercharged 350z. On the road I was happy with my oil temps that were between 85C up to 115C which was fine because I'm using a good oil. On the track I saw 138C after just 3-4 laps of Snetterton 300 ! so decided a cooler was necessary.

Are you going down the BLV route then? It sounds really good in theory, you should try it and let us know how it goes ....especially as engine longevity doesn't seem to be too high on your agenda. I wondered if Bennet could have used one to limit his boost rather than lowering the rev limit.

Me, me, me, me, me, me, me, me, me !!!!!!

Not seen that Vid, cheers. It's been my intention to strip it down for a clean but not had time yet. I just hope it is just dirty, that would be a result.

"Shout goin' out to the fellow Vortech guys out there!" Has anyone got any spares for the Vortech Maxflow Bypass valve? or a spare valve? I've started getting fairly bad compressor surge and suspect the BPV. No amount of adjusting helps. I will take it apart when I get a minute for a closer look, but as its my daily drive the least time off the road the better. The sintered bronze beather is looking pretty sorry for itself, so might be related. Or possibly a split in the diaphragm. I will order parts from the US to repair mine, but would rather not keep driving as it is in the meantime. Let me know if you have one spare to borrow, or parts etc... Cheers, Sam

Yep, it is really a two man job. The zed seems particularly fussy where brake bleeding is concerned. I find the best method is press the brake, open nipple, close nipple(before pedal has bottomed out) then release. Then repeat in the correct order. Any other method seems to introduce air and even auto breeders don't seem to work very well.

Side skirts are Ings+1 and bonnet looks like a seibon. Cool looking motor.