Mark@Abbey m/s

We had our 1st Outing out in our 350Z track car last week @ Bedford with Javelin Track days. Very lucky with the weather as the next day was a horrible day. Car worked real well looks like we have found the limit on the AST single adjustable dampers, car needs to run some harder springs which the dampers wont control. So I will have some AST single adjustable dampers for sale soon (no rear springs thou) as we run SPL rear lower arms to allow us to run 2 1/4 ID springs so we can get a better supply of rear springs easier. A few Pictures from during the day , my wife drives the car for the majority of the time thou ;-(

Is our track car "HARDCORE" enough Looks like it is time to upgrade our damper set up definitely need to move over to at least double adjustable but maybe will go the same way as Team Lizards car with triple adjustable.

-3.5 is not enough front camber? You may have Toyo as a tyre sponsor or running slicks������! I just reduced mine to -3deg as I didn't like going through a set of front R888 in a couple of k miles! I'm I've also reduced my caster to +9deg from 10 but kept toe out to 0deg 04min. Doesn't seem to have changed the superb turn in and front grip I had before but have to try it on track to see. I'm so gutted I missed you at the RSV breakfast meet and wanted to glean some ideas of you������. Your car isn't as stiff as Mr Lizards car and the Pirelli has a very soft sidewall against the 888 we have run before. Going over to the Pirelli will need a completely different set up I feel. Like starting again. driving on the road isn't a way to tell if the car feels good either. And they are mostly my idea's........

Had an email from HKS Europe today with a product release that is pretty good for the DE guys. GTS8555 SC unit kit to fit on DE motor , good for 500+ bhp with internal mods , the old GTS7040 was flat @ making around 360/380 flywheel bhp. As normal awesome HKS parts finish and fitment will be spot on. Costs is £4000 + vat (£4800-00 inc vat) which is competitive with the Vortech kit and we can work on fitting costs with you guys. You will require other mods to allow this to be fitted and tuned

Sounds like he didn't then, you would of noticed if he had. We will be in touch tomorrow about picking the Zed up soon.

Did Andy update your Engine EcuTek software to Version 5?

I have a few sets of stock GTR wheels. Return it to totally stock and see the car rise in value.

the Frozen Boost matrix is too dense slows the air up so the engine radiator doesnt get the required air.

have you got the Stillen stock charger cooler radiator? Sorry Mark, confused by your comment. As far as I know the frozen boost cooler went in instead of the stillen one. Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk Did you not get the stock Stillen rad when you brought the car?

The fans work together GT4 Zed.

have you got the Stillen stock charger cooler radiator?

presume the oil cooler rad is in between the Charge cooler radiator and the engine coolant radiator. Is the car running the ICE charge cooler radiator? I have been told this Rad causes the air flow to be restricted to the engine radiator. I would run the stock Stillen charge cooler rad and have the IAT's a little highers but the coolant temp will be lower.

MM rad fans aren't in the same league as the stock fans IMHO. They aren't multi speed , the fan housing does not flow the air through like a stock rad housing. Cars runnign MM on my Dyno always run hotter than a car with stock fan assembly. The Stillen kit is a little tight around the intake pipe and pushing the fans back further as the new rad is wider will cause the problems George is seeing , you can move the rad forward as the air con rad is already in that position. I do know you can have a rad made that is the same width as a stock rad with a bigger core fitted so this will fit no problem and please stay with a stock fan assembly.

I would remap 100% as the car would of been leaned off when tuning 1st time with the stock cats fitted. Removing the cats will lean the motor out even more. Will only take a couple of hours on the dyno to tweak the fuelling/ignition and tweaking the cams to get the best from fitting the de-cats

I would be fitting a new pump on a build anyway not worth taking any risks.

You must of spoken to Scott @Abbey. High oil temps is normally a sign of bearings failing as the extra friction causes the oil to work harder so causing higher oil temps. We haven't seen any oil pump's fail on the VQ like the RB or WRX pumps fail.

PMX are you any good with a windows based laptop? I have some good base tunes that we can E tune your car for you without bringing it to Abbey. We provide a Loaner ECUTEK cable and you send us Data logs I tune the car via studying the data logs and tweaking the maps It isnt as good as me tuning on my in house dyno but I can get a pretty sorted cal that way.

Thanks for the kind words the Ecutek is a definite upgrade, the control and the ability to build maps with RaceRom feature is just awesome. The re-shaping of the throttle maps make a huge difference to throttle response as well. We have tweaked the traction control and when you turn the factory ESP off it turns the EcuTek traction on with the maximum control that can be adjusted with the cruise control toggle. Have fun trying the traction out.

It is Jables old car. really nice car just needs a motor build to allow those turbos to work properly

Skim the heads the minimum to clean them if you skim them to much front covers won't fit nicely and lower inlet manifold won't fit as removing to material will change the angle of the V between the heads and the bolt position for the rear cam cover will not line up with the cylinder head bolts holes.

Centre main I am talking about the one with the thrust bearing. It is to take into account the way the crank flexes under load. If you run the centre bearing right it will possibly pick that bearing up. More oil flow is also good as well thou.

We have found increasing the length of the rack stops on the lower arms will stop this feeling but you will lose steering angle. These cars do some wierd when going over to full lock will stood still then travelling forward and backwards. It is like one wheel falls over centre.

We always use ACL bearings on our builds. We polish the crank to get the clearances spot on. With the VQ we always run the centre main bearing with a little bigger than stock clearance. Best to use plastigauge to check bearing clearances. Always have the crank checked for straightness as well.

I will have a look through the workshop manual once I find time.

Yes the early engine DE/REV UP doesn't have this issue. The 370 2012 onwards has the uprated gaskets. If the HR has low oil pressure caused by the leaking gaskets the inlet cam control is a little slow in responding , idle seems to be a little uncontrolled. You wont lose any oil from the leakage as the leak is internal in the engine thou.