andyvvc

I had mine fitted at Exhausts UK - good bunch of lads (Sheffield ?). Only issue i had was with the smaller rear collector that they fitted - it would persistently 'blemish' really badly every few days of driving due to the way the exhaust gases entered the collector - causing scorch type marks on the stainless where the hot gases flowed in. They sorted this by welding another stainless cover over the collector, complete with Cobra logo. Looks totaly stealth but has fixed the quirk Ive had no other issues at all - fit is great and the sound is just what i wanted. Think i paid a lot less than you but i already had an ESR Y pipe fitted so they only fitted a centre pipe, rear collector and rear pipes. iirc they said i could take it back whenever and (at a cost of parts only i think) they said they would swap the rear pipes for a different style if i got bored of the ones i have ! Think mine are twin 4" pipes but i might be wrong . . . Are you fussy about the sound? This was the main reason for me going to EUK - and they sorted the sound out by experimenting with different size rear collectors so on idle its pretty normal but on WOT it lets the V6 roar

Mine squealed a lot a few years back. Ian-r swapped the belts (aircon and alternator - which were worn) for new belts. It still made a noise in very cold weather on a cold start - was fine after a few seconds. Whilst in at Nissan for an oil change i asked that they tighten the 'new' belts - i got a call later in the day stating that the belts were worn and needed to be replaced, and that my belt tensioner somthing-or-other also needed to be replaced. £300+ Naturally i told Nissan to feck off. Spoke to Ian-r. He tightened the new belts a little - job done. Since then, they have squealed twice for a second or so when we hit -4 degrees last week. Again, was only from a cold start. I would say this is to be expected at these temps after the car has sat for a day or so. The lesson here - new belts + slight tightening after they bed in is all you probably need ! And having a good mate who knows loads more thasn Nissan also helps !

Yeah mine does it too - quite a bad whine noise for the first 20-30 secs of driving when i come off the power and roll with the clutch pedal all the way up. Once things begin to warm up, it goes away. I noticed this last year too - seems to be cold weather related only. Never happens when temps are above freezing.

Heated mirrors, eh? I found a button on my Zed the other day that i can press which locks me in the car ! Also - i found three pedals hidden under the drivers side dashboard....i have no idea what they do

A rusty nissan... tut tut Andy lol. About time it was sorted out! Cheeky get ! All sorted now, so cosmetically the car looks almost brand new . . . well, if i had enough daylight to clean it it would ! When the heck are you free fella ? We need to discuss your alloy-wheel options and which spring set you are gonna fit

Bloke has just left - the wing now looks like there was never anything wrong with it ! I cant believe the quality of the repair work ! I'll get some pics up soon - honestly it looks like a new wing - i cant see any overspray, blending, nothing. Will have to see what it looks like under flourescent streetlight tonight, but in daylight i cant tell it was ever damaged !

Bloke from my local Chips Away is here sorting out the nasty rust spot on the front left wing tip of the Zed. It was touch-and-go as to whether he needed the bumper off to get to the damaged area, but thankfully he doesn't. Will see what it looks like in a few hours - touch wood and all that Managed to get him down to 100 quid cash which seems wholly reasonable to me - he's already said its going to take him over 2 hours. Van is full of cleaning and repair widgets - and three massive heaters. Apparently he also refurbs alloys, so i might get him to sort my RAYS early next year if the end result on the wing is good. Will post some pics up later on !

There is a key resync sticky on this forum (i think) - ive used it before when the battery in my main key died. Its pretty easy to do - turn ignition, press buttons on key etc etc. I did it for both keys and sync'd them both up after flat batteries in the fobs. I found i had to do both keys at the same time (there is an option to sync additional keys after doing the first one). When i didnt do this, the resync'd key work, but the old key (that did work) stopped working lol ! EDIT - here ya go viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16004 If this doesnt work - try the 350z US forum. The instructions i used were the official Nissan ones on a Nissan Tech Guide page thingy. Not sure if i found that set of instructions on here or not ? The stuff on the clicky seems right i think

If you *do* need to reset (and i did when mine went flat) there is a fob reset/resync sticky somewhere on this forum....or possibly on Nissan s p o r t z Ive been thru 2 batteries now for my main fob thanks to sitting on my fob and (almost literally) flattening it lol

Yeah - i have the same setup. Air scoop goes into the front middle of the bumper (so pretty high up). The filer itself is housed in a black metal case, but this isnt air-tight. So are we correct in assuming that the chance of hydrolock on this setup (if we stay away from 2 foot deep puddles!) is pretty slim?

Be really careful with it - dont force the valve into positions, work around the position it is in as best you can when you clean it. Also - make sure you use a good carb cleaner that basically evaporates after a few seconds of rubbing. Throttle position reset will be needed after this - make sure you download/print off the sticky

With regards lowering the car - i got mine dropped 25mm all round at ESR in 2008. The lads sorted the camber alignment for me too with the standard kit that is on the Zed from factory. Ive since gone thru a few pairs of tyres and the wear is totally even front and rear....so i dont think you need new sway bars/drop links etc if you lower it sensibly. 30mm+ might be a different matter...? I used Eiback Pro springs, some second hand shocks (came from a Zed that had only done 8000 miles) and also some Eibach hubcentric spacers. The lads at ESR fitted it all in around 3 hours (did some exhaust re-hanging for me too!). Great place, but sadly no longer open due to illness in the family. I hope Phil is on the mend ! Im near Notts mate - seems to be a dead-spot in the Zed world. Not many mod or maintenance specialists around here

Mine would stall from cold when i first bought it. Was a bit worried about it to say the least ! A good mate of mine (ian-r, now a new Zed owner himself) came round to take a look at it in Feb 2008. He pulled the large hose off the throttle body, and used some carb cleaner to clean the throttle body butterfly valve (it was filthy) lots of grey/light black dirt build up. After putting the hose back on, i started the car - hey presto, good, clean start ! I've occasionally checked the butterfly valve in the last few years, and its totally clean. I can only assume the previous owner didnt service the car as often as i do lol NOTE: a word of warning - the butterfly valve is pretty sensitive. Be V E R Y carefull when you clean it (if you do). I would also recommend doing a throttle position reset after you clean it and re-seat the hose. This will set the throttle body back into the correct position (sticky about this on this very forum i think). Hope this helps ! As other have said, the stalling could be due to a voltage/battery issue. If the car stalled/went bonkers for no reason, its quite possible that you (at the very least) need to do a throttle reset to get the car to "re-learn" its throttle position settings at idle etc. That should cure the dodgy starts - but sounds like an electrical issue is the root cause of the car going bonkers to begin with.

Almost 95k miles. No issues at all. There is a chance the RAYS alloys might fall off next year - but im told this is normal at 100k and they must be replaced with a nice set of 19" ROTA's...

Hey fella! Long time-no-chat. How you keeping? One of my standard Z kickplates (silver plastic jobbie) is bent at the corner - i need to replace it. Do you still have your two kickplates? These are the plastic inserts that sit on top of the driver and passenger door sill? Do they just stick on - or do i need to buy a decent adhesive material to stick them in place?

Does your gf come with a volume switch? Mine does, and it seems to self-adapt to increased noise. Honestly, i've fitted a louder exhaust, CAI and other mods, and the volume has adjusted itself to compensate. Awesome technology these gf's!

He's got the car - it's utterly mint! Can't believe how 'new' it looks inside and out! It's also just been modded - I remembered i had a K&N panel filter in my old airbox, so that's now in Ian's Zed Been out for a quick spin in it - to sum it up:

Take your boot cover out....what is underneath it? A spare wheel and bare metal?? Nissan don't have the best track record for sound proofing the rear of their cars In my old 200sx i ended up stuffing loft insulation under the rear seats and above the rear arches - all sat in place under the standard rear seats. In my 350 i have resorted to removing the spare wheel and associated tools, and Dynamat'ing the whole of the boot floor and rear arches (there is a decent sticky on one of the Modifications forums i think). I have put a layer of carpet over this, then I have put folded loft insulation on top of that. I have then put the normal rear boot cover back in place resting nicely on the loft insulation, with carpet under that shoddy pieve of black cloth that covers the boot cover. I also have a tonneau cover. Road noise is substantially reduced - but it still isnt as good as it could have been. I *could* have really gone to town with the Dynamat but i didnt use more than the normal £70 large roll in the boot. It seems to me that this is where most of the road noise comes from. An alternate (cheaper) solution, is to drive everywhere three-gears lower than you need too, or to turn the radio up

My drivers side window has (since i bought it 2 years ago) never closed properly with the 'Auto' setting on the window button (ie two clicks up). It gets to the top, then drops about a 1/3 back down as if my hand is caught in it or something. If i use the manual close setting (1 click up) it closes all the way up with no issues. However, my drivers side window has *never* dropped down a little when opening the door! I've never really noticed this until reading this thread doh! In 2 years it hasnt caused me any issues - door closes fine with the drivers side window all the way up. Thinking about it, my old Rover Tomcat and my 200sx had identical pillar-less windows. Neither of them used to drop a little when opening the door...is it a major issue if the wondow doesnt drop a little ? [sorry for thread hi-jack] EDIT - my passenger window does drop a little - at least my passengers aren't gonna break my window closing the door

Nah no check lights at the moment.. I get the solid "Engine Warning" light every now-and-again in winter, thanks to the exhaust upgrade i think. Had her in at Nissan last year and they confirmed that one of the O2 sensors was throwing out minor codes about the exhaust gases flowing too quickly Off the back of this, I'd like to get someplace other than Nissan to do a full health check on fuelling etc, and let me know if anything is amiss. She drives fine, and feels fine, but if she's been losing power a little over time due to an O2 sensor or something, i guess i wouldn't really have noticed? Abbey might be a bit far to drive

Hi all, The Zed is mildly modified (Y pipe, plenum, colder sparks, CA intake). Id really like to get it on a rolling road or 'real life' road test with a reputable company to check fuelling/air ratio etc is all ok. I've heard a few stories of modded cars losing power due to Lambda/O2 sensors adjusting things, or beginning to fail after exhaust upgrades. Trouble is, i really dont know where to take the Zed in/around Derbyshire/Nottinghamshire. Anyone around here that might be able to check the ECU, fuelling etc and confirm if anything needs replacing? I dont know of any local RR or performance car specialists... Ta

Yes, you have done a load of work on my cars in the past. And very little of it has been 'regular' maintenance, it's almost always mods, upgrades etc What's the firing order on the V6 then? Didn't we get that wrong when we changed the spark plugs last year? You sticking to a sub-£10k limit, or are you gonna splash more cash on one..? Here's the mods we added to mine - you gonna go same route? Uprated exhaust Uprated Y pipe Plenum spacer Colder Denso sparks Lowering springs Eibach hubcentric spacers for the RAYS (or 18" Rotas maybe with better offset?) Cold air intake (probably not really needed) Vortech supercharger kit

Can one of the mods lock or close this thread please? My Zed is no longer for sale (at least for the time being it seems). I was told last week that my job might be safe, and that myself and another lad here at work would be kept on. This has just been confirmed this morning officially, in writing, from the head of HR ! Talk about making a bloody U-Turn about my future! So it basically seems that i can afford to run the Zed still! I've also just re-read 350Doc's post (100,000 miles) and have convinced myself that 90k-ish on my Zed means she is still a teenager

Bloody hell! I'm being stalked!! Yeah, Ian's done plenty of spanner work modding my Zed, and my previous 200sx (and his 200sx before that!). I told him the Tuscan was too much of a hair-dressers car, but he wouldn't listen! He's actively looking for a good Zed, so if someone is looking to sell for around the 10k mark, let him know!

Yeah - when used properly (ie all over boot floor, side and top or arches etc) it works really well. I have also put a layer of carper over that, some loft insulation where the spare wheel would have been, and then another layer of carpet and the normal boot cover. Totally stealth unless you go poking about for the spare lol I originally did it because the road noise in Jap cars is awful - my 200sx was as bad. No sound proofing at all in the rear of the car, arches etc. The Dynamat and sound deadening also helps with aftermarket exhausts, making them far less intrusive into the cabin, but just as effective outside I will be really sorry to see her go. Best car i have owned and i *still* hardly see any on the road compared to Porkers, M3s etc. With a little luck i will be back in the Zed club next year..... is MartinMac selling up at all?