andlid

#14 http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=691575

now I'm proper jelaous... better go spend some £££

265hp that's what I got with mine although end can's where ZEES (not sure they did any difference), thats not on a hub dyno where it probably will be lower. There is an upgrade path to increase breathing mods and then get an uprev tune. Normal for NA applications. If you're planning on getting any decent power (increase) then your best bet is to land around the 380-400 mark with a SC kit (Vortech or HKS) They come up from time to time second hand which is a bargin considering the power increase.

+1 great christmas present!

my ass that's official video... looks more like a cheap getaway stockholm copy. Roads aren't closed off either, it's early morning by the looks of things and he's just belting about. Nice sound though

Just imagine a Veyron with a custom map

Need to do the window motors too!

Was wondering that too lol

Will have a set available soon from a jdm, not sure theyre any different though.

great stuff! Hope she'll run well once finished!

I'm curious why did you think changing the thermostat would make any difference?

Yeah. Jun have revised the engine and sent him another FOC well foc = he still needs to fit it and gotten the old one out, seems they no longer recommend running high power (1k) on that block anymore... so will the highest VQ be Tony's 1k build I wonder?

Did he get it sorted after it blew up?

a later volvo s60 D5 (not a fan of diesels but that one is real good) bmw 535D (great torq!)

18" would be tempting....

Stainless Hardware kits are available with all Stainless Steel Button Head bolts, stainless washers and all new black oxide J-nuts (Choose Stainless bolt kit) ^ is that in that kit? I've not even opened mine yet

Can you take a vid of it? Can you adjust it away by changing the damper settings?

yeah get it up!

Where back to having a support van Bike tracking is SO much cheaper it's unreal comparing the two...

A set of Rays for track use will not be expensive. They are the ideal wheel for your proposed use, strong, light, correct fitment, correct offset, minimum unsprung weight etc.etc.etc. With respect, if you think that a set of "scabby" Rays for track use are expensive then perhaps track time is not for you mate as other items will rape your wallet Alex was thinking the last bit too, RAY's would be a one off (hopefully). Consumables will eat up the budget (if you have one). rubber > depends on your driving style and how much you push it, probably not to bad at the start but you will start pushing limits once you get used to track driving brakes > pads,discs > again on driving style (and if you can keep them a bit cooler so you dont melt them!) Petrol <<< Mine drinks the juice on track Track cost < to actually attend More then likely you'll start modifiying the car to be better suited for track... = ££££ I do think rays and another set of wheels with one for dry conditions and one for wet is the way to go and have another set for daily driving. RACE spec pads that you can swap before track would be the best I think too and then just put some less agressive pads on for daily use. Or get a tow bar on the Z and buy another car (smaller) for track use I'll keep a track on spending for 2012 and post it up. My current pads have survived one track use so far (and tyres, but they wont last on a dry session) What in your own mind do you think you'll be spending PER track session? My mind it's (no less then, counting the consumables will last 4 track days) Tyres: 150£ Brakes: 76£ (pads front+rear lasting) Brakes: 50£ (ps disc lasting 8 trackdays) Petrol: 70£ Trackday fee: 150£ Engine Oil change:40£ (every outing) Diff: 20£ (every 4th) Gearbox:10£ (every 4th) Brake fluid: 12.5£(every 4th, sooner if boiled) Probably missed something, coolant fluid to be replaced every year with some decent stuff to help keep the car cooler. (something like waterwetter, I'm no expert when it comes to cooling)

.... on speed

Well spent a few deserved €€€ in tdp on the poor litte car, they did a big ammount of work. 1, fixed a t-piece that had it's leg of the T cut and welded together to make an extension for a rad overflow pipe (well nicely hidden too, what are people like) 2, fixed coolant leeking rear bottom of engine (no clips used) 3, fixed suspension setup and installed the rear adjusters 4, fixed switched power for the boost controller (no more battery drain ) 5, re-installed shady install of the oil cooler, looks nice now! 6, probably forgot something else they did but car drove VERY NICELY toooo... THE TRACK! Went down to Mondello and joined OTD 10 (last run of the year I think), rain was absolutely shockingly bad for my tyres and power well enjoyed it though and ment I had some nice time to get used to the car and new setup. The afternoon dried up a bit but had a few danger spots on track so kept it handy (wheel spin in 3rd and 4th on some places ) Really enjoyed it! Did spot (and was warned by Robbie the tuner in TDP to keep an eye on the water temp). I'd never seen the gauge in the car go up to more then a notch under half... but the haltech sensor was reporting 100C at that stage! (crappy gauge in the Z!) I've been looking at some logs from the Haltech and it's not looking to good, need to get investing in some serious cooler setup for next year (it did mean I had to take it easy around track now and then and run some cooldowns, hope that didnt annoy to many other trackgoers) anyway vids and photos! Wet first start: Last session I did before starting to run to low on petrol: