andlid

cheapest fix will be fuse

sits slightly higher at the rear but not by much Right,, good

Sorry, is that lowered the same front as rear?

my fans seem to be a bit strange to be honest and don't kick in until it's almost to late! they're controlled via the ECU so not sure if that's got something to do with it, do you have any errors reported on the ecu? (engine light)

have a look here: http://my350z.com/forum/forced-inductio ... tmare.html Flush: 1. Ran car until warm. 2. Unscrew drain plug on bottom driver side of radiator (this was a KOYO but OEM is same I think) 3. Then, open top radiator cap to release any vacum 4. Drain all fluid into my driveway (doh!) 5. Screw drain plug back into radiator 6. Fill radiator from top with water. 7. Run car with heater on reving up to 3K for 10-20 second intervals 8. Repeated steps 2-7 until clear water was draining from bottom of radiator 9. Once cooling system was completely cleaned of old coolant I started steps 2-7 2 times using Prestone 50/50 mix. I'm sure extra water wouldn't help but I wanted the system to be completely purrrfect and this will ensure that the entire system will be filled with the right mix of coolant/water. Fill System with coolant: 1. Put funnel on top of radiator and timed my dump to 1 quart per minute (very slow and very boring) 2. Emptied overflow tank of old coolant and completely filled with new coolant. 3. Once radiator was completely full of coolant Start car and once at temperature revved it to 3K RPM for 10-20 second intervals. With Heater on full blast (at this point my heater was blowing ice cold) 4. Let car completely cool and open top radiator cap and fill to top again. Purge: 1. After radiator is completely full run car for 2-3 minutes with heater on full blasts revving to 3K RPM. 2. Make sure the Greddy overflow tank is completely full and slowly open the pressure release valve on the heater piping close to the battery. You'll need a screwdriver to do this. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/ ... f_plug.jpg ^ Image here, remember the lads in the us has the stuff on the other side NOTE: Be very careful. Steam start blasting out of this combined with coolant spray and burned the SHITE out of my face! Also, if the hose is sagging you'll have to prop it up to make sure that valve is the highest point in the system to make sure all gases escape. 4. Once steam has escaped it starts bubbling coolant/air slowly. Shut Valve 5. Make sure your overflow tank does not empty or it will suck air back into the system (I actually had to crack the lid and squeeze a funnel in there dumping more coolant in making sure the tube never rises from the liquid). 6. Let car cool down completely and repeat steps 1-6 until only coolant was coming from the release valve without any air/steam blast. (heater was blowing hot now). Again make sure to keep that overflow tank full. 7. Went for a very spirited drive and repeated steps 1-6 again. Future: I think all the air is free but I'm going to try the funnel/bubbling technique once the kit arrives. Thanks for all the help guys. JAA

you need to get the air out of the system, it's burping time had the same issue with mine, turned out their was bad mechanical skills at play (Yet again...) mine was sucking in air from a T piece cut off and molded shut with a lighter, and also some clips rear that where leaking too Can you not get cheaper aftermarket fans? Like a set of mishimotos? I'm going to get some completely different ones for mine with a manual on/off switch

what camber settings are you running now?

thanks a million!

been told to hold of until I get the rest sorted... so will concentrate on suspension and ARB's for now. And getting the cooling sorted

Anyone know the oem sizes of the rad for the mt Z? (2003) Deep, lenght, width etc? been trying to find out online and in the service manual but no luck.

Im after bracing kit too so can we get a group buy on? http://www.gtspec.com/catalog/products- ... -2008-350z ^ I want the gtpsec stuff (All of it! - the front fender yokes)

WHO BOUGHT IT!

tomorrow... how lazy can one be!

what does the other side look like? great effort, if it's any good or not I'm not able to tell! Good photos

I'll be selling mine in a short wee while I've looked a bit on www.rhdjapan.com, seem pretty good. Are you fitting them yourself? (might be worth getting some cheapo ones and replace in a while again)

You can blame the extras on NeilP and Andlid

congrats! Know another couple doing it then too, 11 min past 11... I'll do a drift around a corner in Mondello to celibrate

yeah did it all proper not under the car it's a bit easier. It's looked over now anyway so prolly be completely redone.

No adaptor problems at all, I although used the adaptor from the sandwich plate that was there, so not sure if any of the 4 adaptors that was sent with the plate where the same as the one there, had a nice tight seal between engine block and adaptor and then to the sandwich plate for the oil cooler to the filter. it did need some cleaning up though, with the teflon tape it's not leaking anyway and feels solid once there. I'm probably going to redo the whole thing there once I get my head around how to get the feed and return pipe for the oil cooler not to hit the redistribution for the oil to the turbos and the pressure sensor.

hoping db can help me out too

If you actually mean that I'm making a carbon fibre triple A-pillar housing for Wasso at the moment. It's not done yet, but it's far enough along that i'm pretty certain it's going to turn out as planned. DB I'd asked mattboy before that's why I mentioned it I was thinking on something on top of the 3 OEM gauges also. What do you have so far? Might be worth taking a mold of it

bumpi if anyone fancy making me a custom mount somewhere that'd be cool (mattboy where are you)

do they look like this?

hope they're not my jdm ones painted red

what rear calipers are they?