andlid

Got a set for you. Pm if interested

got any second hand APs to sell

thats av lot of time to be spent on that bike mate....

schweet, you getting that car lowered?

loving the blip when downshifting...

Cool, need to get my bolts sorted... another one for the list. ...

Yeah agree youre the onelumped with fixing it..would be nice to know them root cause of

Yeah for dyno shot outs its common, not sure for a tune though..

Mark, what normally happens when a car blows on a dyno? Like who's to blame etc etc..

Nice work, bolts is what I need to do with mine. No braided lines! it is a thermostat in that I take it?

http://lexusenthusiast.com/2011/09/02/l ... fe-in-714/ That's blindingly fast.. even though the one on the video isn't the record lap, madness speeds... love the end going flat out uphill doing around 270km/h the driver looks over at the passenger... mentalists...

tell me means = DIY thread

tell me how and I'll make it so Its fused now at least though.

hmm so best bet here would be to wire it into something that's not 'live' when car aint running?

Just need to take it handy coming into corners, 500hp is good for exit acceleration need to take it handy delivering that power too with those tyres they're in a bad state too so need refurb or get another full set of something else tasty and get these ones DIY refurbed and slicks stuck on... still in two minds what to do...

Battery findings: Did my battery drain troubleshooting today, found out that the problem is the bloody boost controller here is what I did, stuck the newly freshly charged battery in, took my multimeter (Draper with 10A DC setting) and stuck it in parralell on the ground side of the battery (-) So with the booster plug out the display shown below : Plug into the boost controller: Took it back out and the multimeter now loooking like it's 0 Plugged back in the boost controller and ... Ok, so we know it's draining but is that a bad drain? Wouldn't think so... and not sure if it's 'loading' up and then will stop the drain, checked all the doors boot and lights intenrally etc and couldnt find any other peek in drainage. Ok, dropped it and went on to check the alternator. before car was started: When car started so all good there This is the meter from inside when turning the key currently: So ... is it the boost controlelr causing it to run down completely? Left it unplugged now.

Battery findings: Did my battery drain troubleshooting today, found out that the problem is the bloody boost controller here is what I did, stuck the newly freshly charged battery in, took my multimeter (Draper with 10A DC setting) and stuck it in parralell on the ground side of the battery (-) So with the booster plug out the display shown below : Plug into the boost controller: Took it back out and the multimeter now loooking like it's 0 Plugged back in the boost controller and ... Ok, so we know it's draining but is that a bad drain? Wouldn't think so... and not sure if it's 'loading' up and then will stop the drain, checked all the doors boot and lights intenrally etc and couldnt find any other peek in drainage. Ok, dropped it and went on to check the alternator. before car was started: When car started so all good there This is the meter from inside when turning the key currently: So ... is it the boost controlelr causing it to run down completely? Left it unplugged now.

What's you guys BEST way of getting the Z off the ground? always bothers me to actually securely get it up and managed to get it there. What I do is use a wodden block on a car jack, if I want the rear up I stick it at the front and pump it up as high as I dare to go stick the car stand on the rear jack point, lower car job done. It's just hard to get it high enough I think and it's always taking longer then I want it to take... any ideas on how you do it ? tried looking under the rear for another area to stick the hydralic jack so I could do both sides at once but didnt really spot any... I looked at this www for some info on how best tackle this job: http://www.bcracing-na.com/G37install.htm Anyway, once up tools out! Here are the tools I used for this ^ ^ what it used to look like... Took the wheel off, then went to work with jacking up the spring bottom place with the Z jack and two wooden blocks under it to get it high enough up, put some pressure on the spring and then started taking off the bolt, used two wrench's nr 17 for this, took the bolt off and then continued to un-wrench the other side.(found it easier to do this rather then mallet it out) slowly lowered the jack once the bolt was out and once it the spring was out I just took away the jack. Look at the state of the old install took the suspension out and looked if there was any damaged done, none so thats good. How the guy decided to fit it this way is beyond me, anyway. took out the top rubber and stuck the former lower one in there it's an easy twist install once in place I took the spring and flipped it upside down and then fitte the new lower rubber bushing. (see below) looking down where the spring lower is going to sit, sweet it only fits one way *my lucky star! Once in place I used the jack to get the spring tension back, THEN I decided wha tthe heck lets just get the car lowered while I'm at it...and fit the rear brakes. So I started lowering the car with moving the two rings upwards. I decided for unknown reasons to use a snus lid to measure how far from the lowest setting I wanted, once happy I tightened the lock ring. I used this to get the hole centered *below I had a look at the link posted above from the install of BC coils and noted the way to keep the springs under tension with the read below: "Once spring assembly is completed, you’ll need to measure shock distance. You will want a bit of load from the jack on the spring arm. This will raise the hub just a bit. Make sure the springs aren’t loose. Reach in and assure there is no play. Next step is to assure the shocks lower bracket is roughly 1/8-1/4 inch shorter." I had a look at this and noted that AFTER I lowered the car this was roughly ok, so it wasnt OK before... anyway up and onwards, went on attack on the rear pads. my phone rebooted while takign photos so guess it didnt save the once I took of the actual pads, anyway they're BLUE EBC (new ones) that I wanted to see how they kept up around track (prolly not but not an expensive misstake if it'll be) they come with shims that you 'glue' on the back so thats handy compared to the half ones that sat there. I start by pulling out the two metal yokes (can't remember what they are called) with a plier, then pull out the metal bar, be aware that the metal shim holding down the pads might fling off . Pull the pads against the calipers to push the pistons back inside the caliper to make room for the more meaty new pads, then pull them out, note what type of pads goes where (they're different) then I stick my fat fingers in and push the cylinders back all the way in to make for an easier install. Stick in the pads and start with pushing one of the metal bars back in with the metal shim under it, hold down the other side with your finger while pushing in the other bar. Push the metal yokes back in to hold it all in place, done. take a photo and throw the wheel back on (put one of my in need of refurb ray's on). Job done... some photos of above: BEFORE AFTER FRONTneeds doing now

Actually managed to get 2.10h to do some work on the car today! Managed to get the rear suspension flipped around and fitted with the rubbers, think I used the set I got from Lee, not sure have a spare set now while I was there I lowered her (think I went a bit to low... used a 'snus' lid (google snus, images and you'll know what I'm talking about) and adjusted that towars maximum lowering, also fitted the RAYS' rear. Need spacers now Some photos and description in the next post...oh yeah, fixed my battery drain problem too, will update here and there regarding that, in short "all" good. Emptied out the oil catch can too, not impressed there is already oil in it...

well the other option would be to hold your hands up and do it 'virtually', it states on it that it's a better experience with the kintect stuff btw..

Ahh u can get some practice in then mate

think my copy is in the psot office

was hoping for something tastier to be honest

lovely

What do you do if you can't get 98... My motto, adapt... Anyway other option is to hope you get the petrol you pay for, quality that is....