andlid

would be interested to see the damage of the engine and what possible cause would be, reading that you might need a new gearbox also Id fix it up if you plan on keeping the car for a while since you do a long enough commute. Fix to sell, I wouldnt even dream going down that route. Did that on a SV650S and ended up just coming a bit short of what it cost to get a new engine and fit it... Unless it was a high ticket item such as a newer Z or something else worth more in the end.

Think Ill just fly mine over for my next project phase park it up there and let chris loose!

when it was running the voltage was as normal over middle somewhere. (never took note of that really before I had problem) Im wondering if there is some light leaking somewhere, even a short of some sort. Will find out in the next few days. Surely there wouldnt be anything pulling more then 10amp while the car is turned off? Dont want to burn the new multimeter once I get it

like the idea of the isofix in the rear, group buy

Will be doing that tomorrow after I get enough juice in the battery.

looking forward to this build project thread mate ,well done. What EMSs are you considering? I got a special thanks go you!

Right found my multimeter only does 500ma so dont think its good enough for my need. If I get this correct I unplug the negative plug from the battery, stick the voltmeter on the cable on one side and onto the battery negative on the other. Having set the meter to DC 10A beforehand? Im ordering one that does 10A at the moment, what I can read this should help me find out what the heck is draining it. Im wondering if the alternator has gone bad too (shittly installed)

take this opportunity to get some more power out of the already blown engine? Not read the thread about the blown one yet though... (will now) painfull either way.

Pics?

good idea, just need to find that multimeter now (and figure out how to set it up) I've got a new engine fitted and a full APS TT kit... so really the harness has been out and put back in again...

Hey guys, Had issue with my battery (old one) thought it might have been gone since it didn't take a charge. Got a new battery, all happy days for a week, was going for a quick spin this morning (not to happen) battery dead, couldn't even open the door. Don't have any alarm and prior to work on my car the battery last forever. So in short I need to figure out what's draining my battery out. Hoping that the new battery hasn't got knackered now too. Did a quick charge earlier and stuck a solar battery charger on it for now. Could it be the new battery is crappy to?

The vett was rented in sweden...

anyone notice something spoooky about that photo ?

btw I can see bennets car there on the right hand side of the crash... lucky one mr B

that's some crash... to many cars involved for my liking piled up like nothing else.

That does not look the same...

Snapped this from another place, a helpfull guy translated a Swedish test. Enjoy For your benefit I'm going to summarize a couple of Swedish cold weather tyre tests. Obviously in Sweden there is no debate whether using summer tyres is a good idea or not, so this is about which winter tyre to choose. In Sweden there are three types of cold weather tyres available: Studded, Nordic friction, or European friction. We have the European friction tyres here in Ireland. All-weather tyres are dismissed as completely useless, by the way. The evaluation weightings used: Ice 30% Snow 20% Sleet 10% Wet tarmac 20% Dry tarmac 10% Economy and comfort 10% S means Studded, N means Nordic, E means European. 1. Nokian Hakkapellitta 7 (S): 7.4 (****) 2. Continental Conti IceContact (S): 7.3 (****) 3. Bridgestone Noranza 2 Evo (S): 7.0 (***) 4. Goodyear Ultragrip Extreme (S): 6.6 (***) 5. Michelin X-Ice North XIN2 (S): 6.6 (***) 6. Pirelli WinterCarving Edge (S): 6.6 (***) 7. Vredestein Arctrac (S): 6.6 (***) 8. Gislaved NordFrost 5 (S): 6.3 (***) 9. Yokohama IceGuard Ig35 (S): 6.0 (**) 10. Goodyear UltraGrip Ice+ (N): 6.0 (**) 11. Dunlop SP Ice Response (S): 5.9 (**) 12. Continental Conti-Viking Contact 5 (N): 5.9 (**) 13. Nokian Hakkapellitta R (N): 5.9 (**) 14. Hankook Winter I*Pike (S): 5.7 (**) 15. Sava Eskimo Ice (S): 5.6 (**) 16. Michelin X-Ice XL2 (N): 5.6 (**) 17. Bridgestone Blizzak Nordic WN-01 (N): 5.5 (**) 18. Yokohama IceGuard ig30 (N): 5.0 (*) 19. Continental ContiWinter ContactTS830 (E): 4.9 (*) 20. Dunlop Graspic DS-3 (N): 4.6 (*) 21. Goodyear UltraGrip Performance 2 (E): 4.6 (*) 22. Insa Turbo T-2 Green Line (S): 4.5 (*) 23. Kenda Icetec (N): 4.5 (*) 24. Pirelli Winter 210 Sottozero Serie II (E): 4.5 (*) 25. Cordlant Sno-Max (S): 4.3 (*) 26. Vredestein Snowtrac 3 (E): 4.2 (*) 27. Sava Eskimo S3 (E): 4.0 (-) 28. Toyo Snowprox S953 (E): 3.5 (-) The result here is probably mostly of interest to me and anyone else who has driven on studded tyres. I was quite surprised about how poor the European friction tyres are in comparison and this test obviously explains that. The best tyre that we can buy here ends up in 19th place with a one star rating. So the test above included everything and was weighted towards harsh conditions. Having said that, because the authorities in Ireland usually don't do anything about snow for a day or two we get very nasty compacted snow that turns to ice so our driving conditions are actually worse than those in Sweden. In any event, let's have a look at a test that only tests European friction tyres and only take snow, wet tarmac, and dry tarmac into account, all weighted equally. So icy conditions are not considered here. 1. Goodyear UltraGrip 7+: 264 (*****) 2. Michelin Alpin 4: 259 (*****) 3. Continental WinterContact TS830: 257 (*****) 4. Fulda Kristall Control HP: 244 (****) 5. Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3D: 242 (****) 6. Pirelli W210 Sottozero II: 234 (***) 7. Vredestein Snowtrac 3H: 233 (***) 8. Nokian WR G2: 232 (***) 9. Bridgestone Blizzak LM 32: 221 (***) 10. Kumho I'zen KW23: 196 (**) It should be noted that the Continental WinterContact is the best European friction tyre on ice, which is why it came out highest in the previous comparison but not this one where ice performance was not evaluated.

good work chaps! Loving the writeup, took longer then the fitting?

only one comment = Where is the car lift?

If you can't afford the tt z on here then you can forget about getting a oem Z and sticking a tt kit on it. The one for sale (if you haggle a bit) is pretty decent value for the kit that's in it. Unless it's knackered. To get a sub instead of a TT Z... =

Its not keyser is it?

that reminds me, need to stick in my order

someone got a bit fed up repeating himself? Take the car out on a few track drift sessions and have a bit of fun and get 4 new ones. (rotate as needed )