Hennett

Thanks for the tips I bled the brakes again using the brake pedal method, performing 5-6 repeats of this at each nipple of the caliper, in the order of NSR-OSF-OSR-NSR. I also made sure I had the rotors on the right way round etc which they were I then performed the brake bedding in procedure as described in the guide but the brakes still feel weak. They stopped me pretty quickly when I slammed the pedal down hard but I still have to push the pedal down a lot further than normal before it bites. Is it a problem that I performed the bedding in procedure when there is potentially still air in the system? Could I have damaged something by doing this? I still haven't used the car for any normal driving yet as I don't want to mess things up.

I'm confused as to which order is the correct one for bleeding a 350Z I have read numerous different ways on here and I still don't know which to use! This link viewtopic.php?f=59&t=36291&hilit=bleeding+brake+lines says: Driver side rear (OSR) Pass front (NSF) Pass Rear (NSR) Driverside Front (OSF) AND NSR-OSR-NSF-OSF This link viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22078 says: NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF And this link http://www.350z-tech.com/wiki/index.php ... d_Bleeding says: NSR, OSR, NSF, OSF So which is it!?

Here is exactly what I fitted: hks braided lines. The discs are PF front and DBA 4000 rear and the pads are PF .01 front and PF Z rated compound rear. New rbf660 fluid too. I followed the bleed procedure and did both nipples on each caliper. The brake pedal needs to be pushed another inch or so before it starts to bite and it was definitely sharper before. I washed the discs as advised on the bedding in procedure and cleaned with tissue and brake cleaner. Pads were a straight swap however I think I took too long on the brake lines as a lot of fluid was lost and the master cylinder went dry! When I bled the system there was a lot of air coming out the first time round, the second time a few bubbles and the third there didn't seem to be any more bubbles coming out so I thought all was ok with that. Is it possible for air to be trapped somewhere further up the system?

Hi everyone. I recently fitted myself new discs pads and brake lines and today took her out to carry out the bedding in procedure as reccomended on here. The brake pedal however lacked the sharpness I was expecting and they didn't feel extremely responsive considering they are brand new brakes. I thought perhaps they still had air in the system as this is normally the cause of spongy brakes but they are working enough to stop me so I wasn't sure whether to try bleeding again or if there's something wrong with my disc/pad set up. Anyone have any ideas before I have to take all the wheels off again ?? Thanks

Thanks for the tips guys. Ive just gone a bought a second hand set of rays on eBay. £450 with a practically new set of RE40s on and the wheels look good as new too! Tbh I had a similar view of costs, wasn't aware that gearbox and diff oil should be changed regularly, is this required (not that it's much of a cost)? Was hoping that buying used slicks would save a bit as I've heard they last a fair bit longer than something like the R888s.

Would love to but I think the rays will be quite expensive. ...and forgot to say brillomaster, I live in Chelmsford, Essex.

Thanks for your replies guys. I have today been thinking of doing just that! Buying a second set of rims for track use only so I can swap them on and off at the track. Any recommendations for cheap alloys for track use? Any particular size? Don't know what I'll do about transport yet though, think I'll struggle fitting them on the passenger seat Those slicks look awesome so I may give those a try once I've sorted the new wheels. I'll let you know how I get on when I'm decided... Yes I am starting to get the feeling this is going to get expensive, but I love my car and don't care

Would like to ask the same question. Could anyone reccomend some alloys for track day use only? Probably second hand and nothing too expensive. Where could I find some? Cheers

Hi everyone I did my first track day last week and absolutely loved it. Now I want to go a LOT more often A few things are bugging me however and I was wondering how most other (experienced) people tend to do track days in their car. My main concern is tyres. I have a brand new set of tyres on my car and don't really want to bugger them on the track. I spoke to someone at the track and they said they buy part worns to save on cost. I've had a think about this and I don't see how it's any cheaper as you buy a worn set (approx 4mm tread) for about 140-150 and you need to also pay a garage 50 quid to change the tyres over before and after the track day. Another concern is the rate I will wear brakes out. I am soon going to buy some front PF discs, DBA 4000 rears and PF 01 and 97 pads from ZMANALEX (who is a very helpful guy if you need anything ). So my questions are: 1. What is a cost effective way of doing track days in regards to tyres and do most people buy part worns for track use only? 2. How many times on a track am I likely to get out of 4mm tread? 3. How many track days will I get out of the above brake set up before things need replacing (I know this is subjective but a rough guide would do) Thanks all

Hi all Thanks for all the replies, I thought I'd give an update on what I chose to do. I ended up going for the Ultrac Sessantas (front 225/45/18 & rear 245/45/18). What a fantastic tyre. They are so much quieter and smoother than the OEMs. The wet handling is just a completely different league to the potenza 40s, hardly see the traction control light any more. Dry grip is also very good. Took them to Bedford autodrome Monday just gone and they seemed to be pretty good on the track too, with not too much wear (I was expecting to get through a set!). Got the fronts from camskill and the rears from click on tyres. £550 in total (plus £48 for fitting at my local quick fit). Cheers Hennett

Hi all, I'm a bit of a newb in the tyre game so please bear with me. I've read through the whole thread which has been really useful for manufacturer reviews. I currently have the stock potenza RE040 on my Zed and I too agree they are dodgy in the wet. They are due for replacement so I could do with a little help. As winter is approaching, should I be looking to get a set for winter and then next year get another set specifically for summer use? I may have got the wrong end of the stick here but people seem to be swapping their tyres a lot for different seasons. I thought road cars had a 'one size fits all' rule. I would like to go on a couple of track days but my main use is getting from A to B and also having a blast on those winding country roads! Lots of people have said MPS2 are the best but they are one of the most expensive (especially if I need a summer and winter set!) I have the 18" rays on so should I be looking for a specific width/profile and also should I run different sizes on the front and back? Any help would be good