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Thanks a lot, pins and pistons have been replaced in calipers, forgot to mention. Never had an issue with Pagid before but possibly a bad batch, although I agree that new discs getting rid of the issue temporarily is suspect. I'll ask the mechanic about DTI gauge. Going to go after upper arms and droplinks next but losing patience with the issue now! Will keep you updated!

Hi there first time poster here, not an expert. I just wondered if anyone knew what kind of seats these were. This is from a 2005 roadster - not mine, sadly, I'm looking after it for a relative. I've worked out the tan colour is called "alezan", from what I've seen it seems relatively uncommon, the few others I've seen seem to be plain tan without the ventilated fabric centre? Was the ventilated style something that came with the GT spec? Also, I wondered whether its sat nav was standard equipment or an option? It took me a while to work out it's controlled by a tiny remote control and isn't a touch screen. Of course it's not very useful now we all use Waze and Google Maps, but looks like it was a sophisticated unit for its day. I'm curious whether people prefer to leave these be to preserve original features, or swap them out for something more up to date. Thanks for reading and thanks for any info.

Just returned from europe and done an underside inspection. i had an underside impact and i reckon theres a part missing from the engine guard,its a 2015 370 nismo,thanks for any input... Dean

The fact new discs and pads fixed it for a while, then it came back, suggests piston / slide pins might be the root cause. One pad isn't retracting, creating heat, warping the disc. I've never heard of pagid but copilot suggests they are not the best quality. Buy cheap buy twice is the old saying. When it comes to brakes and tyres I always buy the best I can afford, they're the things keeping you alive! Do you have a DTI gauge to check disc runout again? If that's okay then I'd lift the front, get a crowbar, and check every joint and every rubber on the front suspension for play.

I may have this strip in stock. Let me check for you.

Had steering wheel and cabin judder under braking for a couple of months. I have changed the discs twice and the issue goes completely away for a week or so and then gradually comes back. I have: Replaced discs and pads (short term fix then comes back as above). Had the bearings/hubs tested for runout. Replaced a wheel bearing which showed some runout (no effect). Replaced both lower control arms/wishbones (no effect). Other things to note: All discs and pads have been Pagid. Maybe a bad production run/batch? Vibrates less the harder you press, but you have to press really hard to not feel it. It's mainly the steering wheel and cabin that vibrates, not the brake pedal. There is a slight squeak on right lock you can hear when parking. Car pulls to the left a little more than it has recently. Any ideas/help would be much appreciated as not wanting to throw endless amounts at the car as it is now on 100k miles. Would be a shame to let it go but thinking about cutting losses.

As you can see from my photo, the roof trim strip on my car is coming loose, slowly getting worse over time. Am I right in thinking that the only official way to replace it is with this whole part? https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/genuine-nissan-350z-03-09-outer-a-pillar-trim-finisher.html Has anyone found an alternative way of replacing just the plastic/rubber strip that's coming loose?

I run Goodyear Asymmetric 6 they're often overlooked but up there with Michelins and Contis but hard to find, lots of grip dry or wet

Another one been bugging me for years ; I understand bluetooth protocols changed a while back from version 3 to version 4 which meant smartphones refuse to connect even though bluetooth shows a connection available . I have the original Bose audio system and no I don't want to start demolishing everything . I fitted the upgraded Nissan kit a number of years ago which meant it all used to work with my old Nokia etc , now the Huawei refuses . there is something available from GROM claiming to be a Nissan kit that plugs into the back of the Bose without mods , has anyone used one of these successfully ?

What are the current thoughts on replacing the dire standard xenon combi lights on this model ? It's not safe driving at night over 50mph ! There was a fancy replacement on the aftermarket but at nearly 1000 I was unconvinced what would be a drop in replacement on my GT4 , everything else seems to be different to standard models !

i have that JWT 1200 KG with lightened flywheel on mine. Bearable is subjective, but yes theres clutch chatter from the single mass, its a similar sound to when your throw out/release bearing is going. Its loud enough to notice, especially if your car is quiet/stock. Doesnt bother me at all though. (my car isnt stock) Its not huge but i think it made it a little more responsive. Its a great clutch with loads of clamping force and serviceable/replaceable parts. Also it retains the OE clutch feel and doesnt make it any heavier. You can buy them with dual mass just fyi

An eBay find. Ive sourced a nice Miltek exhaust. The current exhaust is an x02 chinese rep of the hks exhaust. So I bought the back box and mid section Miltek from Ebay and I sourced a new y pipe for it through Tarmac sports. I spent some time wire wheeling and polishing the used parts and now its looking pretty sharp. I also wire wheeled my own thumb. (I dont advise it.) Anyway some pictures before fitting it. A little before and after too.

Now sold to a fellow forum member - Please Lock

Welcome along, and all the best

PS5 or Conti 7. Really won’t go wrong with either, PS5 will last a lot longer though if that matters, C7 better performer though. I ran the PS5 for two years on one set of tyres, performed wonderfully in all weathers with plenty of feel and more than enough grip to have fun. Maybe a bit too much if you enjoy slidey fun tbh!

£250 inc Royal Mail Tracked 24hr postage. (or can collect from Pontefract, West Yorkshire) Fitted to my car for the last 2 years, does not lend itself to a race application in my view (which is 90% of my use) but feels awesome on the road. Very precise and mechanical gear change. 40% shorter throw than oem and relatively straightforward to install. very good condition as per pictures. does not come with anything else other than the shifter unit itself. I think you re-use existing bolts. Plenty of you-tube videos showing installs.

Hi everyone, I'm looking to buy a rear quarter panel for my 350Z Coupe. I need either a brand new OEM part or a clean quarter cut from a donor car / dismantler. Does anyone know of any reliable online stores that still stock new body panels, or any good Z-specific breakers/part outs that ship within Europe? Thanks in advance for any leads!

Hi and welcome along. Good luck with your selling situation.

Hi and welcome along. You wont go wrong with Michelin tyres really. They are great in wet and dry conditions, as above they do tend to last a long time as well. The issue I found with the Continental was they didn't last long at all.

Any chance you wanna do a single turbo kit for the 370z? 😅

Andy, Email received and replied to. Alex.

Hi all. Just back from a road trip and had a misfire. Error code was P0300 random / multiple cylinder misfire. Pulled the coil packs and did resistance check. All were 1.6 except one at 1.48. Noticed lots of oil in the plug tubes and 5 out of the 6 cylinders. What would cause the oil leak, is it a cam cover gasket issue and would you think that the oil could cause a shorting out and give a misfire. Any advise appreciated before I lose my mind! Thanks Andy

Apologies if this is the wrong section, have 350z GT4 on oem clutch/dual mass flywheel. It's daily not tracked. Clutch is on It's way out and was looking at the jwt kit. Anyone running this setup and is the chatter bearable? Bit of a minefield with the likes of z1, xtreme, tarmacsportz kit, and jwt, trying to find the most acceptable trade off from oem. Do want a bit more punch, which is why I don't want to put another dual mass put in. I know this subject has been done to death, so Apologies. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Mine does that if the roof is cold, works perfectly if the sun has been on it., I think the roof material doesn't fold well if its not pliable enough. I've had mine 10 years and have always just leant over and lightly pressed on the lid as required and its not caused any issues in all that time. I try not to operate the roof until either the sun or the heater have softened it up.