Stewal

Assuming the oil is good and the level correct, I would say confirm the readings with a manual gauge: the senders do fail and should only be replaced with an oem standard one: ebay Chinese copies will be cheap but unreliable. With ac off that idle speed sounds right: put the ac on and the idle speed and oil pressure will increase.

14psi. Bear in mind the A/C raises the idle a bit so pressure would indicate slightly more if its running.

Does the 370 have the manual overide switch to operate them (lights have to be on) like the 350 does?

On many cars which share the same reservoir the light washers trip long before the bottle is empty to avoid having nothing for the screen. So it is certainly wise to test with a full reservoir before assuming a fault.

Some insurers offer free chip repairs or minimal cost without it counting as a claim. I think that's the way to go if you can.

Thanks for the tip, but mine is so bad you take the sag out of one area and it reappears somewhere else. It's got the rigidity of cardboard! It's either an expensive metal replacement or nothing and I think I will do what Alex suggested and try running without. Cheers.

My undertray is so poor and saggy I am thinking of removing it and running without it. Has anybody doing this had issues with the wheel arch liners being insecure without the undertray? Cheers

I think you may be chasing your tail here. A drain of 140mA means in 24hrs you are draining just 3 or 4 amps out. That's peanuts for a decent battery of say 70 plus Ahr. If your car will not start after 24hrs with a fully charged battery then I would question that battery. Just because it is relatively new does not mean it is good. Try another battery or get yours load tested: just because it reads a good voltage does not mean it's up to starting the car when massive current load is required of it .

12.1 could be too low to operate the starter. If it's 12.1 at rest it will be a lot less under the load of cranking...... My first option would be try jump starting it from a good battery to rule that out.

The pitch or roll of the car will always affect the reading to an extent, but if your gauge reads significantly less than full when the tank is brimmed, or reads empty long before it is, it will likely be one of the senders...........

It's over ten years since I read this pdf, but this is the guide to fix them: it does appear both have to work if you want an accurate gauge. The hidden one accessed behind the seat often seems to be the one that gives trouble. https://www.350z-uk.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=6682

Aren't there 2 sender's as the tank is a 'saddle' across the prop shaft? I thought the symptoms you described indicated one was dodgy.

I wouldn't rule out the water pump either.......

A disconnected battery will not go flat in 2 months. There is only a very tiny self discharge current. Reconnect after 2 months and it should have no problems starting the car.

If you pick well, what you spend in fuel and road tax could be recovered in reliability against other makes. (In 6 years mine has only ever needed a cam sensor). With the way costs are going, and if you really want one, I wonder how attainable they will be in a few years, so maybe now or never?