Stewal

Assuming the oil is good and the level correct, I would say confirm the readings with a manual gauge: the senders do fail and should only be replaced with an oem standard one: ebay Chinese copies will be cheap but unreliable. With ac off that idle speed sounds right: put the ac on and the idle speed and oil pressure will increase.

14psi. Bear in mind the A/C raises the idle a bit so pressure would indicate slightly more if its running.

Does the 370 have the manual overide switch to operate them (lights have to be on) like the 350 does?

On many cars which share the same reservoir the light washers trip long before the bottle is empty to avoid having nothing for the screen. So it is certainly wise to test with a full reservoir before assuming a fault.

Some insurers offer free chip repairs or minimal cost without it counting as a claim. I think that's the way to go if you can.

Thanks for the tip, but mine is so bad you take the sag out of one area and it reappears somewhere else. It's got the rigidity of cardboard! It's either an expensive metal replacement or nothing and I think I will do what Alex suggested and try running without. Cheers.

My undertray is so poor and saggy I am thinking of removing it and running without it. Has anybody doing this had issues with the wheel arch liners being insecure without the undertray? Cheers

I think you may be chasing your tail here. A drain of 140mA means in 24hrs you are draining just 3 or 4 amps out. That's peanuts for a decent battery of say 70 plus Ahr. If your car will not start after 24hrs with a fully charged battery then I would question that battery. Just because it is relatively new does not mean it is good. Try another battery or get yours load tested: just because it reads a good voltage does not mean it's up to starting the car when massive current load is required of it .

12.1 could be too low to operate the starter. If it's 12.1 at rest it will be a lot less under the load of cranking...... My first option would be try jump starting it from a good battery to rule that out.

The pitch or roll of the car will always affect the reading to an extent, but if your gauge reads significantly less than full when the tank is brimmed, or reads empty long before it is, it will likely be one of the senders...........

It's over ten years since I read this pdf, but this is the guide to fix them: it does appear both have to work if you want an accurate gauge. The hidden one accessed behind the seat often seems to be the one that gives trouble. https://www.350z-uk.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=6682

Aren't there 2 sender's as the tank is a 'saddle' across the prop shaft? I thought the symptoms you described indicated one was dodgy.

I wouldn't rule out the water pump either.......

A disconnected battery will not go flat in 2 months. There is only a very tiny self discharge current. Reconnect after 2 months and it should have no problems starting the car.

If you pick well, what you spend in fuel and road tax could be recovered in reliability against other makes. (In 6 years mine has only ever needed a cam sensor). With the way costs are going, and if you really want one, I wonder how attainable they will be in a few years, so maybe now or never?

Just realised it is cranking so forget the the clutch switch. If I remember correctly the fuel and ignition relays can be swapped with the main beam relay to test if they have the same terminal layout. Best to try the no cost testing first before buying stuff.

This is the link. It seems the red led on the dash top is the key. https://youtu.be/YHJ8JQKtdtE I would also check the fuel pump and ignition relays and the microswitch on the clutch pedal.

Next time it fails to start, lock and unlock with the fob. It could be the immobliser, there is a US video of this on you Tube.

Having fitted really useful reversing sensors to my 05 convertible I find the sounder in the boot is too faint, presumably because the roof area is insulating the sound from the cabin. Is there an easy route to pass cables from the boot into either the cabin or the roof stowage area using existing grommets rather than drilling. Cheers.

I can fully concur with my experience. my 2005 Z has only every needed servicing and a cam sensor. I bought a 2005 mk1 V6 TT quattro with similar mileage for a bit of winter fun but its so fragile compared to the Z with several niggles which would be ludicrously expensive to fix. Its woefully underbraked compaed to the Z and should it be the servo then unbelievably the engine has to come out and it will suck up about £1600! The rear ABS sensor which needs doing, can't be done without removing the disc and caliper and even then its likely to be seized into the hub requiring a whole new assembly. Glad I kept the Z alongside it and having had a similarly good experience with a mk1 MX5 which just shrugged off anything I chucked at it, I think staying Japanese is the answer for me.

I wouldn't be at all surprised if this was tyres or a wheel issue. Particularly as you say they are worn. If the tyre size allows it, maybe try swapping fronts to back and see what happens. I had very similar with a previous car: sounded for all the world like an intermitent wheel bearing issue but it was the tyres.

When you read the fault codes my guess would be a camshaft sensor. A fault in these produced just the symptoms you have in my own car. Easy diy fix.

Would certainly endorse Alex's point about oem for the sender. With some parts its buy cheap pay 2 or 3 times over.......I speak from experience! Even a good used oem part will be better than a cheap ebay chinese copy.

Almost certainly the sender unit which is easily accessible to change and not too expensive - do not over tighten though.

One of the most basic checks you can do and easiest fixes is to check the fabric straps above your head, one on each side. They need to be tight enough to pull the front part of the frame. Over time they loose their strength and become floppy. Check youtube for some easy fixes using bungey cord and similar. I believe they can be bought as a service item but the roof fabric has to come off to rivet them in. Thats why many resort to elasticated cord which seems to do the job.