Wolf24h

I see 350z in Devon & Cornwall quite often, 370z is rare tho

I run Goodyear Asymmetric 6 they're often overlooked but up there with Michelins and Contis but hard to find, lots of grip dry or wet

Push the clutch or brake pedal upwards when trying to turn the CC to see if the switches are the reason

You can probably find everything you need on Amayama but it's a long wait

Didn't want to start a new thread so I'll revive this one. I'm looking for the closest match touch up paint pen to use on the stock sport wheels. Can't find any using the Rays paint code, anyone found some alternative?

Here's the result, the click is gone. Socket size 32mm, torqued it to 180Nm and used some medium thread lock. Put some copper grease into a syringe and squeezed it onto splines at the back of the hub after pushing the axles out a little. Much easier than I expected, didn't even have to use a blow torch I used 4 washers at each side (3 new and 1 old) and as they aren't flat I did a little research and decided the best way to set them up is like this: AXLE ))(( NUT . I did read that 3 washers could make nut to low so 4 was just perfect.

Got the delivery from Japan already, that was quick. I measured the washer and the pin for reference because I couldn't find any info myself (I guess so you pay much more instead of getting a substitute). Mind the spring washers are slightly domed, not flat. I hope its going to be useful to someone in the future: I also recorded the clicking sound, 100% coming from the wheel hub where the nut is despite garage assuring me it's axle boots needing regreasing:

I found it. The original one is Mine's but I think it's discontinued. The Mine's and Fly1 replica have to be bolted on. I saw a lot of negative reviews on Fly1 in terms of quality and fitment. Powertrix makes these but cleaner without screw mounting holes but would have to be imported from the US. https://www.powertrix.com/component/jshopping/z34/spaddon-1

Does anyone know what this add-on is? Been looking for a while but it's quite hard to find any info. I found Fly1 Type M but it doesn't look quite the same to me and I saw a lot of bad reviews about Fly1. I'm also curious about the insurance point of view as it's not adding a spoiler really, what do you think?

No worries, thanks for the effort. For now I think I'm going to order the washers from Amayama, the waiting time is long but there's no hurry. It would be less than £20 pounds for 6 washers and 3 pins, much more reasonable price if you can wait

Going to replace the rear axle nuts with the Kawasaki ones. Any info on the washers I could use, size/substitute? There is no way £8.79 for one washer is justified. Any tips from people that did it themselves welcome. I guess I have to do stuff myself if I want it to be done properly. I left a car at a 'jap cars specialists' (no names) and literally told them what the problem and solution is but they just told me they can regrease the CV joint boots. I will provide photos and description in this thread for others when I'm done

Another video, only at a specific RPM, not more, not less. A bite point? No noise on N or P. Gets quieter with time/heat until it disappears

I'll try to hijack this one so I don't make a whole new thread. Mine's an automatic too, started making a rattle at a specific point. It's best to replicate it by a cold start, put it in D or R, hold the brakes and get the RPM to around 900, very narrow band I'd say 850 to 950 right at the biting point? Can hear it when starting slowly from a stand still but only for a fist minute or so. After I drive off and thing start getting warm it completely disappears until it gets cold again after I finish work or in the morning. When I try to replicate it while the car is warm I cannot hear anything. I'm not even sure if it's something vibrating or grinding https://www.youtube.com/shorts/v-w9pgSzg_0