dajw Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I have the Vortech V-3 supercharger, and I was just reminded to check the lubricant (it's to be checked every 2,500 miles) and found the hex head stripped on the dipstick! It is brass, a soft metal. I can only assume that it happened at the last service when Nissan changed the supercharger fluid, though I can't prove that I guess I'll order a new supercharger dipstick from Vortech but FFS!!! Any ideas how I might remove this? Glue on a spare Allen key and hope for the best? Is there an engineering solution that I could use? Perhaps machine out a larger size hex key in what remains? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 this is a 3/16" Allen head. I'm told that a 5mm is only 0.24mm larger so could tap that in with a small hammer to see if it grips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I'm not a expert but your not really going to loose a lot by trying your method ! Just don't hammer it to hard ..... I stand to be corrected though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) thats a bugger! I guess try what you suggested, how far up does the hex head of bolt stick up from the recess?? ive had problem thats similar and used a hack saw to score a line across the hole and then undone it with a flat head screwdriver, thats if the hex head is out enough to get a blade on top Edited March 29, 2015 by jumping350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Want get a hacksaw in there , too tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob63 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 You could try a Torx Driver bit, a T30 should be good. Tap it in gently and square on, no probs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Warnes Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Try gently tapping a suitably sized Torx bit into it and undo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Guess Nissan only have metric tools =/ as above would be good to try first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob63 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 You could try a Torx Driver bit, a T30 should be good. Tap it in gently and square on, no probs For best results do the above whilst the components are hot, assuming the body is aluminium as this has a greater linear coefficient of expansion when compared to brass :thumbs: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Dom, we'll look at it on Friday if you can wait until then 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApexTM Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) Hiya, I have dealt with the this problem before on aircraft titanium fasteners, you need some easy outs, they have opposite threads patterns and cut in to the offending bolt/stud. Once they grip you should be able to turn the easy out and thus remove the stud. Make sure you have a replacement stud before your remove the old one. This is caused by over tightening or possible cross threading! http://www.screwfix....CFbQatAodmS4A5A Hope that helps Edited March 29, 2015 by ApexTM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I'd go with the torx bit or tight allen key, if you have allen keys that fit on a socket they are best as you can tap them in dead straight. when out you could cut a slot all the way across with a hacksaw to make it useable with a flat head screwdriver - or braze a brass nut on to it and use a socket after that, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 I like your thinking Keyser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Good points here I'll have to watch this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Torx bit us the way forward. Trouble with Allen keys is the wear out and people don't notice. Also if the SC unit was warm the dipstick will come undone easier your find. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 Thanks Mark. Stone cold tonight, but noticed the head damage before I tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob63 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Hiya, I have dealt with the this problem before on aircraft titanium fasteners, you need some easy outs, they have opposite threads patterns and cut in to the offending bolt/stud. Once they grip you should be able to turn the easy out and thus remove the stud. Make sure you have a replacement stud before your remove the old one. This is caused by over tightening or possible cross threading! http://www.screwfix....CFbQatAodmS4A5A Hope that helps 23 years in the 'Aviation Industry' and close on 10 in a marine environment and I've never seen a damaged Ti-Alloy fastener. With an ultimate tensile strength in the region of 30,000 (cheap 'n nasty)-200,000psi (aerospace quality) I think you'll experience tool failure before the fastener gives out Tap a T30 Torx bit in nice and gentle, the T30 comes up at approx 5.4mm. With a tapered 'easy out' as per the link above you'll have to drill the screw head to to a greater depth, even then you'd be better off with a parallell easy out as opposed to the tapered version as it has a far greater surface contact area. Just go for it, you'll enjoy doing it yourself and you'll wonder what all the drama was about, make sure you purchase a new screw first 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 As above - although I agree on the parallel easy out, I would use it as a last resort, it is not easy to get to and you need to drill it dead square and true also if you drill all the way through you may put brass fillings into the SC - only brass so soft and should not be an issue it is still best avoided 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floydbax Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I'd use one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001K9UEG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 which is what I think they mean above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Torx is the way to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob63 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I'd use one of these: http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o08_s00 which is what I think they mean above No! End of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 If you go the easy out route be very careful or get a professional to do it. They are more brittle than they appear, I've snapped one off before and its a nightmare to drill out the remains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Thanks for the updates. I have spoken with Vortech and they agree on the Torx route, so I will attempt this when the replacement part arrives. They advised using a 3/16" t-handle hex wrench, so as to apply an even torque to the nut. The damaged part is a 0 degree dipstick Vortech p/n V2A154-001. They don't ship internationally, but superchargers online.com do, who are nearby. It was USD 44.00 plus 30.00 shipping. Ouch. Anyway, lesson learned. Do my own supercharger oil changes in future. The thing that put me off was removal and reinstallation of the front fascia. Now I realised it is a handful of pop rivets and some nuts I feel a bit silly for not attempting it myself! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 How much !! Flip me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob63 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 If you go the easy out route be very careful or get a professional to do it. They are more brittle than they appear, I've snapped one off before and its a nightmare to drill out the remains. For future ref; if you snap either an easy out or a tap then you'll require a Solid Carbide Screw (Tap) Drill, and a little bit of know-how...unless your real handy with Electrodischarging Machining, EDM However, as has been advised sooo mtimes already Torx-30 bit is the way to go, as long as you've 30 seconds to spare cos that's all it's gonna take! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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