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V1H

Project: WeaponiZed

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Yeah this one's going to be good

Are you tunning with ecutek? I can recommend it the traction control is great

I'm keen to see how the turbo car gets its power down

 

Exciting time mate :)

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great news Rene got a bit excited for a second there thought we where going to see the car ready fo japfest :lol: :lol: :lol::teeth: :teeth:

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will be good to see this complete!

 

i want to know what kind of power it is!

Well I want to keep it safe and reliable. Therefore I want to limit myself to 8psi or 600bhp (500whp), whichever is reached first.

I will also have a "daily drive" LoBoost setting of 500bhp (415whp), expected to be around 5psi.

 

Yeah this one's going to be good

Are you tunning with ecutek? I can recommend it the traction control is great

I'm keen to see how the turbo car gets its power down

 

Exciting time mate :)

Yes, I will be using EcuTek for the TT. Atm, I am UpRev tuned. Too bad for my license purchase :lol:

 

That AAM is intake manifold is sexual, but i bet it comes with a not so sexual price.

Indeed, about £2k

Edited by V1H

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This engine going to get built at all ?

 

That intake looks very special indeed !! Nice :)

 

Thx m8. No, I plan to leave the engine internals stock due to the costs involved. the TT and supporting mods already make my wife cry :lol:

I already spent £18.300 on other mods plus £15.500 for TT+supports but... psssssshh

Edited by V1H
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As mentioned, here some words on the installation of the air cup suspension (ACS) system [Stanceparts Air Cup XL Suspension kit - front].

 

Because the regular air cups only accommodate springs up to less than 89 mm outer diameter and my TORQEN S coilover springs are 89.1 mm (d'oh!) I had to get the XL cups made to order, which can house springs less than 95 mm.The complete kit weighs 11.8 kg, the compressor, cups and air tank are solid quality! The total lift is 65 mm! (advertised were 2")

ACS_1.jpg

 

I was determined to install the kit fully stealth into the trunk and wires and hoses super clean, too. Took me countless man-hours and I believe no garage fitter could ever have gone to such lengths simply coz of labour costs.First, I searched the trunk for a suitable place for compressor and tank. Given that I didn't want to sacrifice any of the Z's already-limited trunk, i.e. wanted to hide it beneath the carpet floor, choices were very limited. In fact, a preferred upright installation of the tank was impossible; the S/S-braided pressure hose points sky-wards. So ended up manufacturing a mounting bracket the tank to lie tilted at just over 90° with fixing points that align with a couple of factory bolts on the trunk floor.

ACS_mount.jpg

 

The pressure hose was pre-assembled and very short, limiting the compressors place, too. My Z has the Bose subwoofer, so this is my layout. Had to also make up a mounting plate for the compressor, but here I had to drill holes into the metal sheet floor. The kit comes incl. rubber mounts for vibration reduction. (There is still a drone in the car during compressor operation)

ACS_stealth1.jpg

 

I managed to retain most of the trunk floor supporting black Styrofoam, which also helps sound proofing. Note, the compressor and braided hose get hot during operation. I lined the directly adjacent Styrofoam parts and subwoofer front with some Gold Heat Reflective Tape. The tank needs to be drained from time to time from collected condensed moisture. The drain plug is now not the lowest point anymore, hence I'll have to remove it from the mounting bracket - a tight and fiddly undertaking. Can't have convenience with stealth :blush:

ACS_stealth2.jpg

 

The air line and cables first run to a home-made "control board" for clean looks, which I hid in the dip where the Bose amplifier resides, behind the seats. The Styrofoam part still fits on top w/o any trimming.

ACS_board.jpg

 

Final looks, all stealth...

ACS_stealth3.jpg

 

Because the kit doesn't come with a pressure gauge I bought one of Ebay and is Tee'd off the air line. The gauge I installed in the plastic trim behind both seats for me to easily see. The kit has a pressure-activated auto-off switch, which is advertised as 120 psi (8 bar) but according to my gauge it cut out the compressor at 10 bar.

ACS_gauge.jpg

 

I then routed air line and cable to the engine compartment, completely hidden beneath trim panels. Been a pita to get the all off :wacko:

The system is designed without a master switch, i.e., as soon as the ignition is ON the compressor starts to pressurize the tank until it cut out at 10 bar. And it kicks back in once the pressure drops below a certain value (haven't checked that yet) --- I didn't like this.

 

I don't want the compressor to work each and every time I start the car. So I installed a neat-o anti-vandal style ring-illuminated button switch on the dash board with which I can switch the whole ACS system ON and OFF. Also stuck a nice label on it :p

ACS_mainSW.jpg

 

This switch replaces my old ON/OFF switch for the angel eye DRLs I had before. I re-used my home-made push-button controller (turns momentary push buttons into ON-OFF switches by means of a debounced flip-flop circuit)

orb4.jpg

 

The air cups are operated with a rocker switch included in the kit. I mounted it at the center console right between the two switches for the seat-heaters.

ACS_SW.jpg

 

I'm sure I'll be enjoying the system with my lowered coilovers every time I approach a nasty speed bump :teeth:

 

Edited by V1H
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Nice install got tthe same kit ( front and rear ) to go on my car at some point.

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500 whp

That's going to break necks lol

 

Will break v1h neck more like when driving, the poooower haha

Edited by PPod

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Short video demo of the air cups added to post #109

Still a bit squeaky, first test. But works like a charm :D

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With drive-by-wire throttle control, the throttle valve opens gradually, no matter whether you stomp onto the gas pedal or not. It's actuated by e.g. a stepper motor instead of a direct link such as a Bowden cable. The gas pedal position and throttle valve position can have a non- linear relationship, too. These features are pre-programmed into the throttle map by the car manufacturer for various reasons. I always felt the 370Z's gas pedal has a bit of inherent lag and to access the power one needs too much pedal travel.

 

I have now installed the Boulekos Dynamic Sprint Booster V3 [#RSBJ371]. Installation was a matter of 10 mins, very easy. Just unbolt the gas pedal from the floor to have access to the OEM cable and plug the Sprint Booster harness in between.

Sprint.jpg

Yesterday I had a test drive. The Sprint Booster does work.

However, the effects are relatively small. If you wondered, HP does not change, the throttle map (pedal position versus throttle valve position) is modified.

I went straight into "Race mode", which opens the throttle valve up to 60% faster (improves throttle response). There's also a "Street mode" that opens the throttle up to 30% faster. "Up to" because it depends on the car make i guess how responsive the map is to start with.

I feel a little improvement in response in Race mode.

 

Much more pronounced are the changes in aggressiveness, selectable in nine steps, "1" lowest, "9" most aggressive.

the higher the step the steeper the translation of pedal position to throttle valve position.

I settled for "Race 4" because it much improved the feel of how the power comes on with pedal travel. I quite love that!

Any more aggressiveness and you would struggle with low dose gas control at stop and go :lol:

 

It's a LIKE from me but the price tag is a lot for what it actually does :dry:

Edited by V1H

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With drive-by-wire throttle control, the throttle valve opens gradually, no matter whether you stomp onto the gas pedal or not. It's actuated by e.g. a stepper motor instead of a direct link such as a Bowden cable. The gas pedal position and throttle valve position can have a non- linear relationship, too. These features are pre-programmed into the throttle map by the car manufacturer for various reasons. I always felt the 370Z's gas pedal has a bit of inherent lag and to access the power one needs too much pedal travel.

 

I have now installed the Boulekos Dynamic Sprint Booster V3 [#RSBJ371]. Installation was a matter of 10 mins, very easy. Just unbolt the gas pedal from the floor to have access to the OEM cable and plug the Sprint Booster harness in between.

Sprint.jpg

Yesterday I had a test drive. The Sprint Booster does work.

However, the effects are relatively small. If you wondered, HP does not change, the throttle map (pedal position versus throttle valve position) is modified.

I went straight into "Race mode", which opens the throttle valve up to 60% faster (improves throttle response). There's also a "Street mode" that opens the throttle up to 30% faster. "Up to" because it depends on the car make i guess how responsive the map is to start with.

I feel a little improvement in response in Race mode.

 

Much more pronounced are the changes in aggressiveness, selectable in nine steps, "1" lowest, "9" most aggressive.

the higher the step the steeper the translation of pedal position to throttle valve position.

I settled for "Race 4" because it much improved the feel of how the power comes on with pedal travel. I quite love that!

Any more aggressiveness and you would struggle with low dose gas control at stop and go :lol:

 

It's a LIKE from me but the price tag is a lot for what it actually does :dry:

 

Can you not have your throttle response adjusted by uprev/ecutek?

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Can you not have your throttle response adjusted by uprev/ecutek?

 

I remember such discussion over at the 370Z forum where they edit the throttle map to change aggressiveness. But Adrian said the responsiveness cannot be changed with UpRev. But I'm not sure.

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Always fancied a splash of colour to enhance contrast and looks. So I spray-painted my wing mirrors in Kustom Canz Candy Ruby Red.

It comes with a coarse-silver metallic base coat and a transluscent dark red top coat. I also opted for their more sophisticated 2K clear coat. I've never used "two-component-paint-in-one-can" but it's not much different: once you break the internal seal with a grenade trigger-style mechanism you have 6 hrs before the can becomes useless.

 

I think the job came out very well. The sparkle is quite amazing - more than standard metallic (hard to see on the photo).

My plan is to also paint my aluminium skid pads on the front bumper lip.

 

WingMirror_1.jpg

WingMirror_2.jpg

Edited by V1H
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Yesterday marked an important stepping stone. See this unassuming farm lane down there?

This path - somewhere in the nowhere - leads directly to the fabled halls of Horsham Developments!

Yes, I've dropped off my Z at H-Dev for the AAM TT installation. At long last, it's coming together :teeth:

 

I handed my Z over to the able hands of Jez and Craig and trust that their magic will transform her into the nationwide first AAM 370Z TT within a projected 2-3 weeks. Craig will keep me up to date as he progressed along and I shall upload imaged as I receive them :thumbs:

EDIT: As it turned out, more like 16 weeks with H-Dev.

 

H-Dev.jpg

Edited by V1H
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