ZMANALEX

You got PM In stock and good to go

6 minutes 14 secs.

A fluid chage and a proper bleed may help if it is a hydraulic related issue, but where do you stop? OEM clutch hose, clutch slave cyl, clutch master cyl. are also all prone to failure. However none of the above will cure a clutch slip but may harden up the pedel feel. Alex.

What lower spacer?

Good job Jez

2nd gear issues when cold is characteristic of the early 350Z boxes and you just learn to live with it and adjust your driving style accordingly. The other issues points to a worn clutch and/or hydraulic issues. You will find all the required parts in my sub-forum. All in stock and good to go same/next day. viewforum.php?f=157 Just give me a shout if you require further help or advice on this. Alex.

Google is your friend.

Once you have dipped it a few times from cold you will wonder what all the drama was about. Dip from cold and you will get a true reading

I may be wrong, but here goes. To check the oil level the engine needs to be warm. Then swich off and wait 20 mins for the oil to run back. then check the level at the dip stick. opinions? Best first thing in the morning after having sat all night.

Oh dear It is imperative that the oil level is checked on a very regular basis from cold. The dip stick is a bit fiddly but you have no option. By what you have described, then the oil level must have been extremely low and unless you are extremely lucky, then unfortunately you will have caused internal damage to the motor which may or may not be obvious at this moment in time. Alex.

Pm me over your VIN and I will sort you out What side do you require? Alex.

Here you go Michael, In stock and good to go same/next day. Any questions then then just ask away mate. viewtopic.php?f=157&t=27436 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=31543 Alex.

I have: 18" OEMs 18" Rays 18" Nismo LMGT4s in Silver 18" Nismo LMGT4s in Bronze 18" LM1s as found on the limited edition GT4. Drop me a pm if I can help you further. Alex.

That is as close and as good as it gets

Try removing the spacers that you fitted to the strut bar as you may not require them.

Happy birthday Stew Your catching up mate.

You should not run without the strut brace, if that is what you are asking. Also what size of spacer did you fit? Alex

Welcome to the forum mate

In stock, drop me a pm if you still require one mate.

Absolutely viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44399 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44400 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44401

Plug change would be due at circa 54,000 miles. However, for your reference: viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44399 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44400 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44401 Alex.

If push comes to shove Scott and you require clutch stuff then I am sure that I can help. Just with all your Zed issues and I will sort you out mate. viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44398 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=43465 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=27436

Fitting spacers will not create a camber issue but it may highlight that there is an issue. Perhaps you have a bent suspension rear arm or more than likely the camber may just require adjustment. Get the car on a computerised 4 wheel alignment machine and have it checked out. The camber and toe adjustments on the rear are by 4 snail cams on the rear aluminium sub frame.

Well let's start here: That is if you need them. viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44399

There is no chatter with the ATS 1100kg CT. However, they do require proper bedding in and warming up.