ZMANALEX

What Kev and Andy have said. 370 and R35 use similar systems and in your case a proper reset should work. I would guess that you are not following the correct procedure with your resets or the Chinese Consult/sofware is not up to the job. Give Abbey a shout.

Pre owned, rust free genuine Nissan front wings are in stock in most colours except orange. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

Just an update, had a 2 hour open pit at Knockhill last night and gearbox and new ceramic twin plate clutch were all good.

Plenty in stock.

to the forum.

In stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

The problem will be that the garage is not using the correct bleeding procedure. You will definitely have an air lock and proper bleeding is essential to get all the air out the hydraulic system. It can be time consuming especially if the master and slave have been replaced.

Pre owned rust free doors, wings and quarter panels are all in stock. However it will not come to that as your panels including the quarter panel is repairable. Looks like a straight forward repair, so head down to a good panel and paint shop for a chat and an estimate. The last thing you want to be doing is replacing the quarter panel, trust me.

Start with a coolant pressure test which takes 5 minutes.

Great Shout:

Got a forum member looking to get a pre-owned exhaust "Y" fitted to his 350Z. Any recommendations in the Manchester area ? Any forum trader garages in that area ? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks, Alex

Stick with OEM genuine Nissan for the cam sensors.

Perhaps your heater matrix is starting to leak.

to the forum.

Dan, Why direct to local dealer when most the traders on here including myself have these gaskets in stock. To late now, but if posted today, arrive tomorrow Wednesday. Alex.

Extreme is good for your application. PM received and replied to.

Not a massive job, but gearbox out so about 4 - 5 hours on a ramp.

Internal CSC failure if HR. External slave cyl failure if DE In stock if required,

PM on its way.

Good luck with that mate. Be cheaper to give up the fags.

http://www.clarkmotorsport.net/parts/Ash-Tray/68800-CD400

Okay, sorry for the delay but been a bit manic here. I have 1 x brand new and 4 x used of the clip type. Let me know if I can help further.

Unfortunately not enough room for the BJ splitter. If the correct tooling is not to hand then the bolster chisel is the best option to move the bushing down a tad to break the "seal" and create a gap.

You wont loosen with a pry if it is well seized. Using a bolster chisel at the top of the bushing will move the bushing down a few centimetres and you will then get in from the top with the release oil. Then using the pry bar evenly, you will be able to work the bushing off the pin. There are no threads at the top of the pin so the threads can not be damaged. Any resulting damage however will depend on how ham fisted your man is.

As said, very common for the bushing to be seized on the chassis pin, however no need to cut any thing off. When seized I either use a puller to get if off, however if your man does not have the correct tooling for the job then a bolster chisel between the chassis leg and the bushing will get it moved the first few centimetres and then work of using a large pry bar.