dcash5

Are these from Tim Vine - Youtube him if you dont know who he is

Depends how your going to be doing it. Pressure bleeding/ 2 person bleeding or vaccum bleeding? Pressure bleeding you obviously need a pressure bleeder, I got one from Adam at z1auto. awesome bit of kit! Vaccum - I have never attempted as i dont like the idea of this! And 2 person bleeding. No special tools required. Just a mate and plenty of time to do it properly

that is only just over 10k a year, average car use is about 12k. Might aswell use a car if you own it

Depends what fitting end fitting you get. If they are like mine in the pic, yes you should have 4 banjo bolts. Rgds Dan

I have managed to sort out a deal - if you mention my name (Dan) (or the club) Ben will do them for £65 quid delivered!!! :yahoo: Obviously this is the price he has quoted me now and if you are reading this in the future the price may have changed. this is approx £35 quid less than the goodridge. Apologies admin if you need to modify this post to stay with offical proceedure feel more than welcome!

Hi Guys As some of you know I have been slowly been collecting the parts to do a brembo conversion on my car. Anyway when it came to the brake lines i was baffled as to how Nissan had designed it, three hoses (2 flexy in a W shape and a piece of hardline). So i went down the braided lines route... Again this didnt seem much better, technically there are braided but still have the multiple point of failure in the joints and painfully heavy. This is where I did some research on what other lines people are using around the world and worked with Ben from hose solutions to develop a new kit. The kit we came up with bolts directly into the caliper with a banjo bolt and links straight to the hardline, much like 90% of the cars on the road! Here is the Kit And it fitted ... On every car I have owned, braided lines have made a noticable difference they reduced the mushy feel you get and provide a more direct impression when you hit the anchors. I love this mod and Im thoroughly impressed! www.hosesolutions.org.uk 01392 811601 Speak to Ben and say Dan sent you, no doubt he'll sort you out a deal!

Nope not on my JDM, you sure your not looking at outside temp? On my 350 I have ... Speed Outside temp DTE Average Mpg (KpL) Trip Distance And I think the UKer have a clock (Which is crazy in my opinion!)

Just do it yourself, everything on my car I have done (apart from bodywork) and the satisfaction is immense

Cant help but think that 3 speedo's is somewhat excessive!

The pads shouldnt have worn incorrectly as long as they were installed properly. Personally I dont see any reason why you couldnt retrospectively add copper grease to the back of the pads at all

Ha ha its an old forum trick been done a couple of times, The guest count on this though managed to crash the forum ha ha ha

Adi - I feel like your PA but you've double booked http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18630

Copper grease is usually used for two purposes, one to stop stuff rusting and seizing up and secondly to stop stuff squealing. Depending on what brake setup you have. If its brembos just cover the rear of the pads and then put the antisqueal shim over the top of the copper. If its the JDM just the top and bottom lugs that clip into the spring clips. Also would be worth while putting a bit on the threads of the wheel buts and on the hub, just make sure you dont get any on the braking surface of either the discs or pads.

Think I could well be going down this route, can someone give me some idea of pricings please? Cheers Dan

7 minutes

HA HA HA HA HA HA that is hilarious that vid has been used hundreds of times

Seriously .... too easy

Fuel sender unit, its a cr@p design, The measuring device is a flexy piece of metal that rubs along metal contact points, obviously this wears overtime or can get dirty. Its encorporated with the fuel pump located behind the Sub. Mine wouldnt read above half at one stage. replacement of this instantly cured it! The only bad point is because the fuel tank goes over the prop shaft (cant think of the term now) its n shapped therefore there is another fuel sender on the oposite side under the secret cubby in the passengers glove box. Any more info, drop us a PM.

Good idea to tap the calipers with a rubber mallet (dont go mad) to dislodge any last air bubbles.

Is that done on MS Paint

Not sure if anyone will want/need these. Full set of 350z caliper including front discs and pads with plenty of meat left on them, (DBA 4000 Fronts and Endless Pads) Rears really arent worth selling) and all the hoses. Open to offers Dan

4.5ltrs is without a filter 4.7ltrs usually with a filter but most garages will round it to nearest 0.5 ltrs for their stock takes. If you want the brakes working with the best fluid my recommendation would be something like Motul RBF600 - its a DOT 4 fluid but has the temps and stats of a dot5.1 but its not cheap, including postage you will be looking around the 35-40 quid mark. Common thoughts are you should change your brake fluid every 2 years but over time it will degrade due to water being absorbed. The more you change the fluid the better your brakes will stay but work on the presumption that 5.1 you would want to change about once a year and dot4 once every 2 years as maximum. Also if you are tracking the car I would prefere to be safe in the knowledge is good so would probs change it once after every say 4/5 heavy track sessions but then again that is probs over kill!

dot5.1 absorbs more water so has to be replaced more often but will give a firmer feel and has higher wet and dry boiling temp. 350z holds 0.9ltrs of brake fluid, if your bleeding it yourself I would recommend getting 1.5ltrs to allow for spillages or wastes. Hope this helps Dan

340bhp hmmm

Just don't use Rainx! my pads were destroyed it